Thanks for bringing, I thought wanna copy then saw you bring here already.

Yes, shooting RAW means unedited, RAW; The picture control, noise reduction all is not applied. JPEG is the edited copy based on what settings you set; When PP, RAW gives you more flexibility/possibilities; You can try shoot RAW+JPEG. Then load both picture in editing software like Lightroom and see the difference as you adjust. With RAW, it's better especially adjusting white balance.
For starting, you can try shooting RAW+JPEG, then you can try to PP your RAW file to match the JPEG output or make it better. The JPEG output can be used as reference, and actually can be useful for immediate use.

If there's wall/ceiling, I prefer flashing off the wall, but if I move around, I will be busy twisting the flash head because the effect it will effect the image when bouncing from different side; Try and play around with it and notice the difference; But when capturing moments, you might not have the time to keep adjusting because you need to be fast; The most basic is bounce off ceiling and don't really need adjustment. Even bouncing off the ceiling, you can still create some better effects by bouncing it slightly to the sides actually... but overall it will affect the overall light.

I seldom shoot outdoor at night or without ceiling, so not so big issue; but previously I use bigger bounce card to soften the flash. As for diffuser, personally I don't like the output result, but lit up more area and is more powerful. It's best you try it yourself and choose what's best you want to use.
For your wedding, there will be ceiling and walls around mostly; For the restaurant, unless it's a big hall which the ceiling is very high up, you should still be able to bounce the light; If not you can try experiment with the flash/bounce card or diffuser and choose which you prefer, or try the "Demb Diffuser Pro".

Just my cheap 2 shutter clicks. Anybody care to share or add on or correct anything I said wrongly, please do share.

EDITED:
Here's a sample bouncing off the ceiling, but slightly to the other sides; It gives a different effect, but also affected the overall lightings available. If bouncing straight up or slightly front, the effect is again different and there will also be more light. It all comes down to your preference and how you want the picture to turn out.


This post has been edited by Andy214: May 27 2011, 12:31 AM

Personal opinion:
If you're really looking into DSLR, then it's worth, but then, if you're getting serious, you might want to consider a body with more controls. And you will need to start "investing" later on.

If you're looking for a good camera which have good performance like a DSLR, simple and easy to use, less "problems", less "maintenance", less investment or little. You might want to consider something else, such as those current mirrorless maybe?
Example:
DSLR usage is different with normal digital camera/point and shoot; You use a viewfinder, which gives a totally different feel and you won't see the effect until you review the picture in your LCD and you notice, oh DARK, or oh too bright. With digital camera, you use the LCD and the settings you adjust, changes in real time so you can see roughly how the image will turn out later.
When using DSLR in Live View mode, it kind of defeat the purpose and you might notice the performance is worst than many high end digital camera. Then when you're looking to upgrade the lens, you will see the "investment" you need to do.

If you take a look at the latest Panasonic G3 preview video, you will notice how good the performance is and easy to use. There's touch focus feature; You can even adjust the focus point size, and so on; When you focus an area, it will zoom it to let you see whhether the image is in focus; The auto-focus speed is also fast, the video even demo their touch-focus-shoot process, means when you touch, it will focus and immediately capture the photo and the person do it in continuously touching different area.

Anyway, if you're really looking into DSLR, then kindly ignore my comments; The reason I share this is because there're people who buy DSLR for the wrong reasons only to find out they don't actually need a DSLR; They thought DSLR as a powerful camera, suppose to be work better in EVERY WAY, but not knowing about the differences and limitations.

its not just body

Don't worry, you will slowly discover more and improve as you PP; just take care not to over-PP, and try to view the picture in different types of monitor and so on; unless maybe your monitor/lcd already been calibrated.

You can actually select multiple photo and sync the adjustment settings, and then touch up those that requires further touch up. You can also compare with the original picture to see the changes, etc; You can also try auto-tone and see the differences, but auto-tone may not work well for all photos.
Increasing certain values can introduce more noise (or make it more visible), and also darken the photo, changing the skin tone colour, etc. (You might want to zoom in 1:1 to see more clearly the differences)
Example: Contrast; too much contrast can make it unnatural; You might not notice it sometimes, but what you can do is, let other take a look, or review back the picture again after some time, etc.

Anyway, good luck and enjoy your flash experience. Hope you will have great fun and hopefully the result will amaze you.


No idea, not yet launch I think.
After G3, will be GF3 and GH3, GH3 being the high end model (and most expensive)


No problem bro; I think you can try consider fork out more for a better body with more controls, like the D90 or even better, the D7000; because if you're serious in learning DSLR, you'll eventually want the controls instead of using, changing the settings much like a digital camera with some controls...

Anyway, it's best for you to try those models first; you can actually go and try it out at Nikon Berjaya Times Square; The D90 and D7000 is a bigger body, better grip, the controls are very useful, etc.

Personally, I would "recommend' those bodies cause it's not worth upgrading later on (which if you get serious, it's just a matter of time). To me, those entry level like D3100 or D5100, is more like targeted to those who want a DSLR performance, but want easy to use and control, without worry too much about settings, at the same time, they can slowly advance and move forward (if they decided to). Thus, those entry levels, have many in-menu guides, tutorials, etc and settings using menu like digital camera.

Just my cheap 2 shutter clicks.

---

Added on May 27, 2011, 12:19 pmMore... and it's not just 1 lens

Actually, it makes the skin tones looks nicer; The background maybe overexpose, but the subject is expose better, the subject might like their skins is bright

This post has been edited by Andy214: May 27 2011, 12:19 PM

Bounce Card is not as flexible as Demb Flash Diffuser Pro. You can check out the website for tutorial on the product, there're may ways you can use the product to direct your lights and let's you create more creative lightings.

Personally, I have haven't got it, but planning to and try it out.


Thanks for the tips!
For LR, when you load the NEF files, it does apply some "preset" settings based on camera model, but it can be turn off.
Do you use noise reduction in the software? Or just leave the noise alone;

Love your shots, especially the 135mm f/2; Damm.....

Sorry bro, can't remember where I read it before; By default, when we load NEF files, LR will applied some adjustments; What can be seen is the contrast +25 and brightness +50; Not sure if there's any other adjustment. Since I'm going to adjust it or apply my own presets, so I didn't bother it. I think Jared Polin mentioned it before about auto-loading your own preset when importing NEF files.


Btw, anybody know how to differentiate Sigma Malaysia VS AP Sigma lens warranty card? How do we know whether it is AP or Sigma Malaysia warranty?

Of course it wouldn't be same as what you shot in the camera. In the camera, its preview with "Picture Control" applied. Actual RAW file is without any adjustment applied. But as jchue mention, if you load the RAW file in ViewNX or CaptureNX, it's able to apply those presets you applied in your camera; AFAIK, LR doesn't have those preset values, thus, it applied the general value.

I did googled around before, there was some Nikon preset, but I didn't really go and find out more. You can try finding Nikon preset for LR? Or anybody have any information about this?
As I usually PP, so I didn't really bother about these preset;
Maybe you can also try PP the RAW file to look like the JPEG output result, and then try to enhance it further?

Wah.... the "akak" collecting garbage have a big surprise gift!

Gip to anak/husband or jual $$$

If you're new to both system, then try out both and see which you would prefer more; Most important is how and what you feel. It's after all just a tool to help you taking picture.

do you mean the images in the spoiler are the one you fall in love with???

on the side note:
Anyway, if its straight out of camera, you might want to check our the picture control or profiles he/she used, and also whether he/she change any of it.
You want deeper darker colour, try shooting at lower exposure, but the skin tones will be the trade off.
Anyway, all these can be done trhough PP, you can play around and see the changes to the colour.

This post has been edited by Andy214: May 30 2011, 02:21 PM

True, if the price not much different, better get Nikon original.

One more reason why:
If anything happen, third party will not be responsible for the camera body, but if Nikon, you can pretty much question and claim from Nikon if you're using all Nikon products. The probable explanation or case might be the battery...

Your max ISO is so low; If you underexpose, you will generate more noise than higher ISO properly exposed. When your camera hit the MAX ISO, it will then lower your shutter speed, even you have set it at 1/80, it will go lower, and it will affect your shot if you're shooting moving subject.

If you're using flash, the flash can help you to freeze motion; so for group shot you can use lower ss, as your subject is less likely to move and your flash can help to freeze motion.
You can try use bracketing and took 3 different picture with different exposure, and try set your max ISO to 6400;

For group shot, usually you will be using wider angle and your distance to subject usually is quite far away unless you want to head all "headshots"
So, usually f/3.5~f/5.6 is pretty good enough/adequate, but it really depends on the focal length, distance, and what kind of shot (full body, half body, etc).


Looks like Flash is used?

J-One RM680
NixxerJixxerWixxer (NJW) posted review on this, he said it rocks and so sharp it can cut your fingers
But pictures worth a thousand words...
http://www.photomalaysia.com/forums/showth...t=159958&page=4

If true, at this price, it's very worth it

No sure, for portraits I prefer longer focal length, the effect, subject isolation, perspective, etc is just much better. But the price and the performance is really tempting; Anyway, it can wait, haha

I have not use a DFD before so I can't share my experience, but I've seen the user guide/manual online, I think it explains pretty well; Basically it's suppose to diffuse the light; Actual result, I think you need to test it out yourself.
For the DFD pro, the new version the reflector can be replace/change right? It's velcro type, so you can DIY a bigger reflector

By the way, forgot to ask you, how's the Wedding Reception shoot? Did it go well? Is the ceiling high or low?
How about the walk-ins? Did they turn down the lights and how was the spot light. How did you "manage" this situation?
Which lens were you using?

Same model as yours

Yes, 50mm is on DX is tight, even 35mm on DX can be tight for group photo and sort; I'll be using the zoom lens most of the time. Usually people have 2 body, one with zoom one with prime. If one body, most of the time, will be using the zoom.

To get the nice portrait picture with amazing subject isolation, effects, perspective, etc. the longer focal range delivers much better result, hence why I prefer longer focal range. In wedding reception, you can use it quite often to snipe the guest, groom, bride from afar and the pictures will be standing out from the rest of the pictures. Of course, you have to find the right time cause during certain times, its when they want group photo, and group photo and group photo.
If you have the chance to visit Nikon BTS, go try out the 80-200 f/2.8 or 70-200 f/2.8, it's poisonous and gives a different feel to those picture that you already have. In a wedding photo, if there is wide to telephoto range, it's a much nicer sets.

I prefer the background lighted or expose for the background as well; For this try to utilize the flash as "fill-ins or fill flash". So you need proper exposure than your current exposure; This also will make a difference of image quality between DSLR and compact digi cam.
Previous I did reply to your question actually; Don't limit your ISO so low (1600 is very low actually), if you underexpose, the noise will be worst than if you properly expose at higher ISO; For the D7000, you can safely set the MAX ISO to 6400 if you're not comfortable with it, you can set to 3200 or slightly higher); It's pretty acceptable actually if it's properly expose, the details is still there, but if you underxpose the noise will be worst and the details will be lost.
If you want, you can try it out and see the difference.

Plus, if you set the max ISO, despite you set the minimum shutter speed, if the camera hit the max ISO you specified, it will use lower SS than your specified minimum shutter speed, and this will affect your result later, especially if the subject is moving.

Using flash can help to freeze the subject, so you can use lower SS, but not too low as it can leave trails of the subject (you can try it out and then view the picture in 1:2 or 1:1 ratio for more obvious result). But for group shot, it's safer as the subject is "less likely" to move.

You might want to check if using Flash is allowed for Church, just in case.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jun 11 2011, 12:04 AM

+ those photos deleted / rejected shot, it could be over 1K

What card? Which brand? What size? etc.

Thanks for sharing =)

kitlens aperture is so much smaller, you get more depth of field. At 50mm, your aperture is already 5.6...

If you focus very close (e.g. minimum focusing distance), the focus plane or depth of field will be very shallow. slight movement can affect the focus plane. To really experience it, try shooting macro wide open handheld...
You need to know when you need to use 1.8.

For the price and the performance, its really a bargain or worth it.

Truth is, how many people really need 1.4? And does the price justify? The 1.4G cost so much more,... unless one is rich or earns money from photography, no problems spending on 1.4G, but for others,the 1.8G is good enough.