a drive is yokohama basic entry level tire, cc 5 is same level with yokohama c drive 2.
general feedback is cc5 last longer however grip in dry/wet not as nice while c drive 2 has overall better grip however the treadwear doesn't last as long. AFAIK c drive 2 also slightly more expensive than cc5

criteria or budget? tire size?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Apr 3 2013, 06:57 PM

michelin XM2/conti cc5/yokohama c drive 2

other choices are just a waste of time

imho you should get further discount.

using 2011 tires are fine since they aren't really susceptible to nature's abuse (assuming they are kept indoors all the time within the shop)

more so if you drive a lot and aggressive that your tire treads wear off before the tires age (2-3 years time)

if only half a year old usually people won't entertain for discounts.

do note that it also takes at least 2-3 months for tires that aren't made locally to arrive to shops.

185 not sure, i know 195/60/r15 got as my sentra is on it

michelin xm2/conti cc5/yokohama a drive (i think c drive 2 not available)

DAMN YOU FOR POISONING

how did you came up "quiet ride" for directional tires? if you mentioned F1 AS2 i would agree, but D5? your NVH standards are probably low as hell (i know a few people who claims semi slick tires being quiet so...)

for that budget on R16, not much choices, unless you look into 2nd hand tires.

a huge majority (including the F1 D5) is those, mainly because of the harder/stiffer structural design (or even compound) meant for better performance compared to majority of asymmetric tires that are meant for regular road usage/low NVH comfort rides

both years and mileage (and TWI), whichever come first.
between 3-5 years, or until TWI (tread wear indicator) or mileage (depends on tires wear rate and driving style)

id take c drive 2 over overpriced xm2 any time any day, tread wear is not a concern to me lol

baru angkat 5kg rays replicas from Nestum
itu sinister_sid go post facebook somemore

HUAH 17"

15" i already have to deal with fender bullshit, so naw cant go 17" for me (cheaper rims/tires yay!)

define track setup lol

typically people run on negative 2-3 camber or even more, toe in (or out) depends on how they prefer their handling/cornering characteristic, typically is toe in though, 0.5-1.5 degrees.

almost any shop can do, it is after the setting, if there's a person able to bring your car for some hard runs to test out the results of those settings (provided the owner is willing to let the mechanic whack their car)

not sure of my lower arm, it's f***ed up already anyways, gonna replace it once i can figure out/solve the ATF/engine oil leaking issues so they don't damage the new bushes should i replace my lower arm lol.

and the negative camber is offset by frequent aggressive cornering, so technically our cars are straight anyways
so no, i don't have uneven treads at all. besides negative 2-3 is barely even noticeable from eye view, it's those that go further than that like those hella flush people.
hell, you also never noticed yourself despite having 2-3 degrees on the camber, no?

bad caster/toe settings would unevenly wear tires even more btw

at least also 3-4 or more, lol!

there's no benefit, in fact even most track cars they don't do that. you corner with your tires, not the sidewalls rofl.

eh bro, from your experience, do you think nitrogen gas for the tires are needed for 2-3 hours at SIC?