Refer below as I reply to the other bro:

Achilles K-Economist from nestum

1) Dry grip = still not crash yet
2) Wet grip = jam brake once due to over speed
3) Noise kontol = freaking silent
4) Sidewall = moderate soft(not suitable for hard taugeh, will compress just like any other econ tayar, but got rim guard feature! You probably wouldn't able to find any K series tyre came with rim guard anyways!)
5) Threadwear = Not so moderate to my driving. Try not to taugeh too much. So far 10k km liao, can see some wear. Can't compare with Duraplus bcoz that tyre made of stainless steel
6) Speed rating = V (up to 240kph)
7) Price = RM140 few months back
8) Fuel savvy = Can't tell, but waifu lipot now she can consistently getting 300km/tank instead of 280 previously. So I guess it's pretty much guding
9) Look = Hideous! Fugly! Doesn't look sporty at all! Weird "thread in groove" technology!
10) Water rail = 3x big longkang, 2x small thread in groove longkang extra. Where to find 5 rail tayar from 165 width?

Elite speedway proven with comparison:
Car model: Plotong Sawi
Modifications: Open pod intake
Exhaust: Standard modification/decat

Tayar 1: 165/55R14 Achilles ATR K-Sport
Timing: 1'05"46

Tayar 2: 165/55R14 Achilles ATR K-Economist
Timing: 1'07"50

baru 2 seconds different. Shall summon NOX to give his honest feedback

freddy933 izit same plobrem ar?

Where jiu stay? If Klang Valley can go visit nestum geh, our own very well known tayar guy in LYN. Ayam bery satisfai with his serbis. Oni plobrem is, must wait until he's there, if Mrs.Toh... soli ar dun dare. Later kena slaughter kaw²

Kar prx morah

Insurans primium morah

Rotex morah

Sekonhen part lagi morah dari semenanjong

Ape ketahian kamu sakap nie

Read through the thread, you may be able to find 1 or 2 recommendation suitable you. Tyres are personal stuff, you need a budget frame(price range), purpose. For me, I always looking for something below RM200, hence I will only recommend Achilles ATR series of tyres. More grip, more noisy then it's Achilles ATR Sports. More comfortable with good wet traction, Achilles Platinum. Looking for long lasting, good mileage, fuel saving, then it'll be Achilles ATR Economist. All these tyres are around RM150 range. Some said Indonesia tyre useless, but all my cars running on them with no problem at all. They served their purpose.

Trust me, in the end this is an ego challenge thread. People will defend their brand to the death, just like I defend Achilles. You will not be able to find your answers here. Know what you want is more important, once decided then only come here and ask for which shop to go If you're in KL, please proceed to Jalan Ipoh, our LYN preferred tayar guy nestum

1 last thing though, if you're looking for a tayar that doesn't utilize it's thread, after 4 or 5 years on the road it will still look alot like a brand new tayar, then I rekomen jiu bai CIBAISTONE CYNERGY M-5 The tibai tayar probably will outlast the kar... grip wise... sorry la no komen

When come to CARs, it's all about man's ego fight mat lan? It's my own car, my own money. If u wanna change engine oil, save up the old oil for me, ayam gonna pour in my Shawie liao

Tempting to do so, the valve seal seems pretty bad nowadays. Within 5k km, I can't even see any oil on the oil ruler. During oil change, only about slightly less than 2 litre drained out

Hopefully nestum see this and able to answer you. Which location you plan to do the tayar change anyways?

My 165/50R14 very hard to find replacement wor

Die die want 50 series for 14 The last time I use was 195/50R14 AD01 But from what I heard, after AD03 no more 14 inches, minimum 15 liao

Silverstone Synergy M5 gooding

33/4weeks/month - August 2014 production.

What is weird?

Not too sure about that, may be my mate will be able to answer you. Summon r3apers

Anyway, I don't usually worry too much unless I see the production date area has an extra patch of rubber on top with relatively new engrave compare to the rest of the tyre wall, then I'll be worry or probably cutting samples for inspection

That is call CAMBER THRUST. When you have a bad alignment previously that already causes permanent damage to the tire, no matter how you align it the car will still pull 1 side driving like crab.

https://www.rightturn.com/tire-facts/camber-thrust/

On the other hand, when the tyre shop fler plonk tyre on balancing machine to spin, if the tyre is showing 1 side hai 1 side low, that 1 is the normal camber thrust condition. Use your palm to gradually touch on the surface whilst the tyre is spinning, if got bumpy feeling that also means that your esoba got plobrem or your bushing is wearing off. So, tyre UNEVEN also got many type. Not simply say bcoz tayar uneven then the car pull 1 side geh.

Hence, usually tayar doesn't really count what brand is better. If you do not practice tyre swap on a regular basis, neither check your alignment like 1/2 year once interval, chances are you'll keep getting camber thrust later when you fix the alignment.