If not going high end stuffs, a cheap V12 also good enough. If the Agako amps you mentioned is <rm600, you may consider.
Need recommendation/advise for my caraudio system, pls use this thread in the future
Need recommendation/advise for my caraudio system, pls use this thread in the future
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Dec 15 2009, 06:21 PM
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#21
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If not going high end stuffs, a cheap V12 also good enough. If the Agako amps you mentioned is <rm600, you may consider.
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Dec 16 2009, 03:52 PM
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#22
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If you plan to upgrade later on, best is get proper wiring first. Then only you can upgrade with minimum money. If your wiring is no good, when you upgrade amp = upgrade wiring = more damage.
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Dec 17 2009, 06:20 PM
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#23
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Basicly, if you want to compare house to car setup, it is not possible. Just the volume already good enough to change how a speaker behave.
Some might say house speakers cannot used on car because of high impedance, but that's a wrong concept, infact running 8ohm speakers on car amps that support 4 ohm is better. Atleast you won't have lights dimming issues when heavy bass kicks in. |
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Dec 17 2009, 09:14 PM
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#24
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Get Pioneer HU from here, 7150 for rm7++. You can find it on the sales thread.
Amps, cables and wire try buy from Ebay US, it is cheaper and better than what local acc shops offers. Depending on brand, it will cost you around rm2000 As for speakers, can try Madisound US also, brands like Vifa, Audax..... rm1000-1500 for a pair of tweeter, midbass. |
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Dec 30 2009, 11:53 AM
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#25
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JVC, Kenwood is the brand you may consider. Pioneer is slightly more expensive. Or get the last year models, it maybe cheaper as acc shops need to clear their stocks.
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Jan 8 2010, 08:12 PM
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#26
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^For this budget, acc shops should have the equipments for you.
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Feb 2 2010, 01:37 PM
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#27
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If you are happy with your current system, why bother to waste money to change things?
Your 160GB HD looks like format under NTFS. HU only can read files under FAT/FAT32 system. Try format it under FAT and it should able to read. But using WIndows it can only format them upto 32GB only if I'm not mistaken. |
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Feb 11 2010, 03:05 AM
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#28
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Repair amps you can try TV repair shop. Should have in Penang. As for speakers, I don't think got people repair them. Chances of amp got problem is always higher than speakers.
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Feb 25 2010, 08:30 AM
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#29
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^Well, for me now Sony = paying extra for China products, except pre-2000 products.
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Mar 10 2010, 09:52 PM
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#30
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Better make sure that your SS compset is original, there's too much fakes around.
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Mar 25 2010, 09:28 AM
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#31
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^Imprint is useless, but without Imprint, 9887 really shines. Anyway just the Hu is not enough, other equipments do play their part too.
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Mar 25 2010, 03:57 PM
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#32
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Pioneer P80 is something worth to consider also, atleast it is made in Thailand, 9887 is from China....
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Mar 29 2010, 08:15 PM
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#33
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Yup, you are right, because it is old model and replaced by P80RSII. Why I prefer P80 is because it will be cheaper than P802. Unles you can get P802 from US which is using copper chasis. Both of them are the same thing, except some changes on the faceplate and display. Our local P802 got no copper chasis.
Installations? What do you mean? You mentioned amps, speakers, Hu but how about RCA, power cables, speaker wires? This is something you have to look into also. BTW, I still have some Belden speaker wires for sale, model is 5200UE and rm3.10 per meter. This post has been edited by supersound: Mar 29 2010, 08:44 PM |
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Mar 30 2010, 07:00 PM
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#34
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...... Why pure decks? It is not for newbies anyway..... Especially under car enviroment. Getting a Hu with built in processor is better, atleast when need to change settings, it can be done by finger tip rather than have to change components and recalculate everything.
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Apr 5 2010, 07:09 PM
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#35
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Wuakaka : Check back your wirings and then ditc the junk that killing your battery.
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Apr 6 2010, 03:18 PM
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#36
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Wuakaka : The junk I meant was the capacitor.
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Apr 6 2010, 08:17 PM
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#37
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Make your system as simple as possible is the best way to eliminate all possible problems. Bypass your cap and the +ve to your amp direct.
Lights dimming is due to your amp draw too much current until it affects the voltage on the battery(<12V). Alot of people says wire the sub at lower impedence to get more power is good, but it is wrong anyway. Because on such way, you really need a good and powerful monoblock amp else it will cause alot of unknown problem. The best way to prevent this is let your amp work 50% max from its rated capacity. |
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Apr 7 2010, 08:00 AM
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#38
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Nolah, what you need to do is just remove the cap's +ve terminal then -ve terminal. The -ve should its independent ground while the +ve you can connect to your amp directly.
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Apr 7 2010, 08:29 PM
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#39
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But I'm lazy to argue with old man. So I just post a photo for you.This post has been edited by supersound: Apr 7 2010, 09:31 PM |
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Apr 8 2010, 09:16 AM
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#40
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To the oldman that still looking for arguement, nope, I'm respecting the old ones basically, if I cause him to get stroke(since that oldman like to eat alot of expensive but unhealthy food and have to rely on medicine to keep blood pressure low) and suddenly mycarhifi.com come a thread that "our brother youngaccordguy got stroke because like to argue with someone in forums" then it will be bad to me, but it will good to our local forum, the end of another dirty businesman that trying his best on making a living by conning newbies.
Added on April 8, 2010, 9:31 am QUOTE(Kar Leong @ Apr 8 2010, 02:13 AM) Well i have to do this , recently i upgrade my ICE Setup example in my signature, within 2 week i almost spend more than 15k setup above; I would like to share my experience with you all; That's why I always says that, a capactior is a junk that only helps on seller's profit but seldom helps on buyer's problems.. First 1st lastweek i use Debezt monoblock 1000w bridge to 1Ω to kick 2 x Rockford Fosgate T112D4 DVC 4Ω Dual (which each sub need 600w-1200w peak) both sub woffer need 1200w So i add another monoblock same brand Debezt, 2 monoblock kick 2 sub parellel-wiring but guess what ? The monoblock over heat / lighting protection come out and in / sometime have woofer sound sometime cut off Yes if your monoblock underpower will coz overheat n auto cut-off; to solve this change better monoblock [more power needed in watt] at last the monoblock still under warranty, so change to Shuttle LAB 1700W class D monoblock [Prokick sister?] and really can kick 2 sub-woofer with series-parallel wiring at 1Ω [really awesome] Car Battery:- N70Z/L AH75 12v [upgrading done] Car Alternator:- Stock Toyota Corolla SEG Battery 12v >> in-line fuse (front bonet) >> Prokick 2.0cap (rear bonet beside monoblock) >> Shuttle Lab monoblock (rear bonet) +ve from capicitor >> 2sub ALL Cable 4AWG, Grounding Cable same as 4AWG (less than 1feet) to vehicle body chasis, sub 8AWG cable Recent add:- 5 Point Grounding 4AWG Cable to Alternator 1point, Engine chasis 2point, CarBody 2point (adding because due to the vehicle engine spark / idle / electricity no enough stable) Testing 1 Week already; SQ Slow music which bass sound come slow 1 by 1 okie no problem at all; SPL Bass like continuously coming in second, headlight dimming problem; everything light dimming; monoblock totally suck all the battery watt; Today just add another Prokick 2.0digital farad on the shuttle lab monoblock, its only help a bit Future need to change bigger alternator / dynamo ? or got another way to solve this ? Soon upgrade PXA-H100, Alpine minimum RMS per channel 100w 4Ω x 4 channel, throw away my 6x9" useless boston acoustic (tweeter quite harsh sound) haha... Btw add Raizin Volt Stabilizer will its help or not ? Coz today testing on my car, like nothing special happen de (what use of this item?) http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/electric...-capacitor.html A good readups on why capacitor are useless. The problem with lights still dimming, it is because you wire your sub at lowest impedence. You should wire them atleast 2 or 4ohm. Bigger watt numbers does not means it will be good to your power supply system. Don't know why now still got people like to boil water from the amp(most of your power turned in to heat, not power to the sub) http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...en_US&p_status= If you read on the specs of the above amp, the efficiency drops when the impedence is lower. This is a branded SPL amp. SO for your amp the efficiency will be lower and you wired them for 1ohm. Added on April 8, 2010, 9:35 am QUOTE(robinhood @ Apr 8 2010, 08:38 AM) Well, at least the ICE industry is going to thrive with the existence of more of this group of people. Yeah, with this group of people, then only the ICE industry can survive. And sometimes I just like to organise teh tarik meetups, I can futher cheat people. This post has been edited by supersound: Apr 8 2010, 09:35 AM |
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