Hi guys.
Need ur help on tuning "air/fuel ratio" On 4G13/4G15 carburetor.
I changed to open pod setting but not quite satisfied.
Before this stock intake can reach 180kmh but now 160kmh is damn hard to reach.
Few people suggest using spark plug head as screw to tune it but i don't know ler..

cause you got more air comapred to fuel now, lack of power.

I'd suggest you look for uncle fred aka fstrader on the marketplace, super duper professional carb tuner for 4g engines .

People like me and you can never get it right. People like him gets it right through his nose lol.

are using cap ayam open Pod?

his nose is wideband o2 sensor maa...

All people in the forum suggest me to go find unker fred.
I've asked unker fred few months ago liao.
But unfortunately, unker fred ask me to change back to stock setup.


Bukan cap ayam bro..K&N..
Angin lebih punya pasal ni..

Bro,ur long intake pipe good ke?
Top speed got or not?

haha.unker gettting old sumore.

ade kedai tune carb..
dia ada CO punya tuning.. masuk lubang exhaust tu.. baru tune carb.. kalau nak cun la.. kalau guna pakai dengar pon boleh..

hehehe

or else go to PJ state shell statoion, theres a workshop there that has this CO analyzer machine

unker fred is right
i olso diy open pod
respond good but top speed crap
change back closed factory still the best
what not open pod sucking all the hot air and the air ram paip lenght so damm small so restrict air speed

good laa...
top speed dunno leh... habis meter i start goyang d also havent tekan finish...

More air will result cooling effect to your engine.....
If want good response, suggest to blow your original air filter every 1000km.... More work but will work, up to certain extend....

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Added on April 15, 2011, 8:47 amMore air will result cooling effect to your engine?
What air you mean? The air into engine or air into the engine bay? If engine bay then yes, if into engine then wrong. Ppl who use turbo cars have their car tune to be slightly richer (more fuel vs stoich a/f ratio of 14.7) to avoid detonation and provide some cooling effect.

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Added on April 15, 2011, 8:49 amActually, 160-180 km/h on 1.3 liter is damn impressive if you ask me! I basically never drive over 160 on my 1.6.

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Added on April 15, 2011, 8:50 amBtw amir, why don't you give maddriver a call to see if he know how to tune? He's damn friendly, even for a shy guy like me I have no problem talking to him.

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Apr 15 2011, 08:50 AM

kedai tune tu kat mana eh? whereeeeeeeeeeee?

I see..so if using CO analyzer machine more accurate la?

I've done a good heatshield wor..
siap cover dari heat radiator tu..
confirm all the air is cold one..
the ram pipe is 3 inch.i'm thinking of extending the ram pipe..
but if not effective rugi ler beli pipe...

aiiii...habis meter tu berapa kmh bro?..hihiiiiii...

So u suggested me to change back to stock intake or what?

Well...carburetor is no brain one..
no speed cut..
i wanted to ask for maddie's help..
but the problem is...
maddie also ask to change back to stock intake!
hahahahaahaha

So, our friend's car is normal or turbo engine? Use a gas detector to test your exhaust gas first before bringing that uncomplete version of wiki info.
That 14.7 are just a general ratio, still have to know the hydrocarbon chain that have inside petrol.

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Added on April 15, 2011, 9:55 amYeah, just stick with original. Other mods like spark plugs, plug cables, extra grounding will give you better results, best of all, improve your FC....

This post has been edited by kyheng: Apr 15 2011, 09:55 AM

I see..hmm..but stock intake not good throttle response as the open pod that i'm using now.
So now i'm finding a way to keep the current throttle response and reach the last top speed i've reach before when using stock intake.
Tuning carb and extend intake ram pipe will make difference?

Like that.... Maybe block the pipe of your air filter a bit may help? Have to know that, air flow to your engine are designed and calculated, putting more air in that will only improve the performance until certain extend. Or make it this way, original air filter won't give you enough air....

Hmm..but sometimes i think it is because of air too fast going inside..
Maybe extend the ram pipe will make the air slower..

Can also I guess? But I'll try and error to get the best results.....

Yes agree with u..try and error to get the best result..
I'm hoping for someone to post picture of how to tune the Air/Fuel ratio before i buy longer intake ram pipe or change back to stock..

Got a screw at the engine, have to adjust that... But the actual location I'm not that sure.... Can always ask your foreman to adjust for you....

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1223594

I'm afraid foreman also ask to change back to stock! hahahaha

Thanks bro..
Lean and Rich eh..hmm..

Not really, you just say you want to try lor.....

Hmm..do u know normally how much they charge for it?
i'm afraid tomorrow kena chop..

When you change engine oil and tune together, should be FOC... Don't tell me you don't have a "regular" foreman that you know....

hehe..got la regular foreman..
last night i've change back to drop in.
no power ler.. haizzz...

Bro, you're so funny, I'm just pointing that you're wrong. It doesn't matter if our friend's car here is turbo or NA. Leaner A/F ratio will not make the engine cooler.

Gas detector? Do you mean air/fuel sensor?

Basically, the closer to A/F ratio of 14.7, the more optimum your engine will be. Too lean and it will cause problems, too rich and you're wasting fuel.

How to know the hydrocarbon chain inside petrol? So you mean the mechanic/tuner must first study Bachelor in Chemical Engineering first?

STOP SPREADING WRONG INFO ALREADY!

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Added on April 16, 2011, 11:14 amAnd enough of your sinkalan!

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Added on April 16, 2011, 11:16 amAt least try to Google or Wiki first before you say anything from your "intuition" or "experience".

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Added on April 16, 2011, 11:20 amThat's why for fuel injection engines, ppl buy management to tune after they have done some significant mods on their car. They want the max power they can get though their mod and this is done by bring back the A/F ratio as close as stoich as possible.

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Apr 16 2011, 11:20 AM

Lean means lesser petrol go into engine, Rich mean more petrol.
since more air going in with your open pod, you also have to make more petrol going in to compensate it.

or just take your car to shop with CO analyzer to tune it, only tens of ringgit.

Oooo..
nice bro..now can understand a bit..

later will find workshop that have the CO analyzer..

my meter until 180 laa..

its not making the air flow velocity slower... imagine open ur mouth wide wide and breath... and close half and breath... which is more efficient... open too wide, u have higher cfm with lower air intake velocity.... close half, u will get lesser cfm with higher air intake velocity.... concept slightly same with exhaust, just dat exhaust piping size is meant for scavenging effect while intake isnt....

actually not as close to 14.7:1 as possible... different tuner tune each car differently for different application depending on owner's preference... u tune it close to 14.7 or even 15 for better fuel consumption on lean cruise... but if u want outright power, approx 13-13.5 would be good for NA to produce lean best torque.... turbocharged engine would need richer AF approx 11-12.5, depending on turbo setup...

When an idiot don't know how to differenciate what is called gas detector and air/fuel sensor, do I still need to waste time on an idiot?

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Added on April 16, 2011, 2:45 pmWell, I got a gas detector that can do this job, measuring O2, CO, HC.... But you have to come to PD..... Being tested few cars, I can only get CO and O2.....

This post has been edited by kyheng: Apr 16 2011, 02:45 PM

deleted

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Apr 16 2011, 07:08 PM

guys,
my car (old satria 1.3 carb) eat

Before tune = RM70 of ron95 petrol for 350km.
After tune = RM70 of ron95 petrol for 423km.

17% improvement.

Just want to ask, what the average fuel consumption for satria 1.3 carb? stock one.

RM70 423km?
mine iswara 4g91 1.5 ron 95
RM50 can go 320 - 350

thats quite good already...

i think ur engine are sucking the hot air.. that is y ur FC getting high..

my saga 1.3 year 91
65 buck = 449 km

that good man. i plan to transplant 91 too. still kumpul duit.
my mechanic quote me 5000 for the halfcut, 1500 for labor.
can u recommend me other place?

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Added on May 10, 2011, 8:40 pmyup. me think so too.

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Added on May 10, 2011, 8:42 pmwow. 20 yo car with good fc

This post has been edited by siqplus: May 10 2011, 08:43 PM

@ the_catacombs

U need this la... for better accuracy in tuning your AFR.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1845582

I've built a custom "super heat shield".
And make sure no hot air will be sucked.
But still macam shait ler..
Because of not tune after change to open pod.
More air than fuel.
So not balance.
Now tukar balik to stock intake.
Super satisfied!
FC good,Torque not that good,but top speed is niceeeeeeeee..

This post has been edited by amir_tengkorak: May 11 2011, 09:31 AM

ayam open pod?

Earlier post :

KNN ori or imitation

Hahaha! Coverline cemerlang!

Hi, Which SHELL station the one near Civic HALL or the one Opposite Pizza Hut

tku

The Open Pod Air Filter is better than the square air filter ?? How long do I need to replace a air filter ? Or depend on milleage ?

if it is washable, u dont need to replace it

How to see it whether washable ? If use High Air Flow Air Filter , will it damage my car ?

KNN is washable.. but i dont know the efficiency of the filteration once u wash it using KNN air filter cleaner kit..

If use High Air Flow Air Filter , will it more dust going inside the throttle body ? KNN is the best or ... ?

depending on what air filter u purchasing lor...
it wont damage ur car as long as there is an air filter in place...
there are cars which do not run on any air filter... that is damaging in long run, especially in country like ours....

clean the filter thoroughly with its provided detergent and rinse with running water....
after wash must reoil la... make sure oil is sufficient but not dripping wet... should be ok...

filtration efficiency is different for all types of air filter...

Anyone knows of any reputable carb tuners in Kota Kinabalu? Planning to get my carb tune by an expert

Dear all i need to know what is function of screw in picture which marked with bblack line and how to adjust it caz i found it losen


Attached thumbnail(s)

main jet screw i think, you should NOT have to adjust this....

http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/92-95%20Colt%...ENT/1995/11.pdf

Hi forumner, for the picture shown, please teach me how to access the 4G13 throttle body - throttle plate (or also named as throttle buttlefly valve), which are the screws or items to be removed or dismantled? Thanks !

a efi system throttle body or a carburetor throttle flap ?

Thanks for your question to clarify, it should be Carburetor Throttle Flap. This 4G13 I am having is carburetor type. I have put photos and quick questions in this thread, appreciate help to reply if you know, thanks so much ~~


Attached thumbnail(s)

u flip the carb upside down u can see the butterfly , two screw that hold it , need impact screw to remove the screw , and to take the shaft out u have to basicly dissassemble the entire carb

You mean, based on the photos which I showed, the throttle butterfly can be reached from below ?
I just want to clean up the throttle butterfly only.

And what is the function of the shaft actually ? Do I need to dismantle the shaft?
Just in case I remove the two screws in red, can I still clean the throttle butterfly without having to take out the entire carburettor ?

yes u can get accsess to the butterfly at the bottom , if u wanted to clean it i dont see the need to disassemble the butterlfy , just a simple turn of the spindle u can clean the entire butterfly

Wow..
Amazing..

Sifu tunjuk ajar..........

hmm our stock carb only 2 knobs/screws to tune? (1 being AFR the other being idling?)

Please advice what are the ways to access to the throttle butterfly valve if I do not remove the 4G13P carburetor from the car ? Thanks ~~

no other way , simple solution , use carburator cleaner to get ur butterfly clean of dirt and carbon

1. Please advice, can we just spray carburetor cleaner into the 4 holes in yellow of the picture?

2. And secondly, in case I still want to attempt to access the throttle butterfly valve without taking out this carburetor from the car, can I just remove the 2 screws in red circle in the picture (and plus one more screw under which cannot be shown on the carburetor view), only 3 screws, then I can remove the front housing, and access to the throttle butterfly valve ?


Attached thumbnail(s)

as per the thread title.. where am I able to find someone to tune my 4G13 carb ?

u spray carburator cleaner with engine running , the cleaner will be suck by the induction along with the dirt , u will get a clean surface , yes u can spray inside the breather hole and air bleed hole , and result to flooded system and make ur engine hard to start

removing the front screw will gain u access to the variable ventury piston housing and the piston itsself and to remove the piston u have to take out a screw on the top , yep it will gain u alittle access to the buterfly , but with the risk of spring falling into the intake manifold , that time it will be fun

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Added on October 30, 2012, 8:44 pmpmed you

This post has been edited by sinister_sid: Oct 30 2012, 08:44 PM

anyone can confirm on this?

Thanks for advice ~~ so, it seems it is too complicated to see the throttle butterfly with carburetor still in the car. So will you suggest that I can only spray the carburetor cleanner through the 4 holes when engine is still running ?

And if it is the correct way, then I would only need to remove the circular air filter, which is relatively much simplified work...

[quote=sinister_sid,Oct 30 2012, 08:40 PM]
u spray carburator cleaner with engine running , the cleaner will be suck by the induction along with the dirt , u will get a clean surface , yes u can spray inside the breather hole and air bleed hole , and result to flooded system and make ur engine hard to start

removing the front screw will gain u access to the variable ventury piston housing and the piston itsself and to remove the piston u have to take out a screw on the top , yep it will gain u alittle access to the buterfly , but with the risk of spring falling into the intake manifold , that time it will be fun

yes , the upper is idle jet screw mixture , bottom is main jet screw mixture , to adjust idle to 2k / 3k afr u have to fiddle with the idle jet , beyond that is main jet

argh hand itchy to play with it despite everyone say leave it

[quote=LionelStep,Oct 31 2012, 12:09 PM]
Thanks for advice ~~ so, it seems it is too complicated to see the throttle butterfly with carburetor still in the car. So will you suggest that I can only spray the carburetor cleanner through the 4 holes when engine is still running ?

And if it is the correct way, then I would only need to remove the circular air filter, which is relatively much simplified work...

[quote=sinister_sid,Oct 30 2012, 08:40 PM]
u spray carburator cleaner with engine running , the cleaner will be suck by the induction along with the dirt , u will get a clean surface , yes u can spray inside the breather hole and air bleed hole , and result to flooded system and make ur engine hard to start

removing the front screw will gain u access to the variable ventury piston housing and the piston itsself and to remove the piston u have to take out a screw on the top , yep it will gain u alittle access to the buterfly , but with the risk of spring falling into the intake manifold , that time it will be fun

[/quote]

Hi sinister_sid, so, am I correct to just spray the Carburettor Cleaner into the 4 holes when engine is running ? Thanks so much !

I would like to know also. There is a problem when I mati my engine, there is a little vibration occurred, what's the problem, any sifu can explain and tell what I should do?

hi... i try to reach uncle fred (fstrader). can anyone share with me his contact?

yeah been trying to find a good tuner , seems all are extinct

Wow

This post has been edited by amir_tengkorak: Jan 22 2014, 09:31 AM

anyways how are doing mang? long time no hear from u..

ohai lol. so suddenly?

The screw which tuned with a sparkplug basically is the A/F for Idling only...no use

For Carb tuning you need to tune something else and for Aisan Carbs on 4G13/15 can get 150% more torgue after tuning compared to stock

Kyheng, stop giving bad advice and superficial info on cars. Read your replies on removing positive terminal vs negative terminal. First time i join a forum to correct and taruh people back! Your knowledge on car is very very bad..LOL!

hi expert,
may i know how to adjust the air/fuel mixture screw? mine 4g13p carburetor, the screw was protected inside a steel ring, do you know how to adjust it?

What is the prupose of install the battery meter ( volt meter) in the car ? why we need to know the voltage ?

lari topic ni....

anyway volt meter to measure voltage..... some pipu wana regulate their voltage at all times~~ why do we wana do this? cause we like to make sure everything works as is

Hi guy's and sifus,please help,I'm having a jerking acceleration while in middle of 140km trying to increase my speed and while to tarik pickup in 2nd gear or sometimes in 3rd gear mostly around 80km.i was thinking the only problem is the carb,before overhaul and change the parts with new carb service kit was already done,new fuel filter, open stadium air intake,Arospeed 10.2mm plug cable,but still make my nose itchy. FYI mine is old saga 1989 4G15.Is that related to the mixture setting? Anyone guy's?BTW i like to wish Selamat Hari Raya to whom celebrating it.tq

any good place and reasonable price to tune 4g13 (carburetor a/f ratio and distributor timing)? should be below RM100, right? thanks

This post has been edited by alexwsk: Aug 31 2016, 02:58 PM

Hello, nice to meet you.
Im a newbie first time to join this website forum, and I just face a freaky problem after rebuilt my saga 12v carburetor ,
Firstly I got no petrol inject by the chamber linkage when rotate the pulley,
then found the plunger rubber flatted and use carburetor cleaner and airgun to clean the clogged jet, problem fix.

after i install and start the car then second problem coming up like smash on my head,
engine keep 5k rpm un til i switch off my car to prevent engine blow up.

Really no ideas whatt happen with that carburetor. need help and Urgent.
Wish someone carburetor experts can help.
If not i gotta spend more money to find another better carburetor.

Thank You Very Much.

Hi experts..my 4g13 has been sitting for 8 months and now im going to rebuilt..after fix several problem now my car is starting but the engine died after a few second..
Im suspecting the carburetor but i cant tell which part..can anybody help?

Other info :
Cranking
New plugs
New distributor
Working fuel pump
New fuel filter

hey guys..

want to check i'm having problem like

but the sputtering is only when i start my engine (morning or afternoon)... sometimes ok sometimes not ok..
very troublesome sometimes, when after trying 5x time without success to start,
i open up and push push the piston like thingy, then when i try again can jalan ..

seems like when i start the thing is unable to be regulated, and giving too much air or too little air until engine mati

is it due to something blocked or what ? anybody know where i can go to get experienced help ?

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Nov 20 2016, 07:54 PM