When a person decided to install water pump to boost the system pressure, is better to upgrade the piping also.
And to be safe, off the power supply when not in use.
[WTA] Grundfos Water Pump, CH-PT or CH-PC
[WTA] Grundfos Water Pump, CH-PT or CH-PC
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Aug 26 2014, 08:45 PM
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#1
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When a person decided to install water pump to boost the system pressure, is better to upgrade the piping also.
And to be safe, off the power supply when not in use. |
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Aug 26 2014, 09:07 PM
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#2
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Oct 20 2014, 09:16 AM
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#3
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QUOTE(hickups @ Oct 19 2014, 05:03 PM) my housing area water pressure was ok although abit low pressure but still ok.. Can complaint or "songlap" the Syabas technician to increase your incoming water pressure. Before the meter, they have a special valve that only can be adjusted by their special key. By default, this valve never been adjusted to max, can adjust this first.now both my neighbours install water pump directly after the meter..makes my house water pressure very bad...can complain to syabas?? wat action would they be taking? |
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Dec 26 2014, 09:06 PM
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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Dec 26 2014, 09:02 PM) Hi sifus. Would like to check with u. As long as you have metal in between, this is normal. Stagnant water are good metal killer.Is it common that when you turn on the grundfos pump after a few days of non-usage, you get brownish water out of the tap? The brownish water will disappear after like 10 seconds or so. This has happened a few times. Have any of you experienced such symptom ? What could be the reason please? Thank u. |
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Dec 26 2014, 10:35 PM
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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Dec 26 2014, 09:37 PM) Oh, maybe let me clarify. There are water outflow from the tank to the same outlets on daily basis. Just that the booster pump isn't turned on everyday. The water has always been clear during normal usage until the booster pump is turned on, then there will be a gush of brownish water. Why ar ? Are you telling me that the pump setup has a bypass pipe? If yes, then the rust water are from the pump. |
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Dec 26 2014, 11:39 PM
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Dec 27 2014, 12:05 AM
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#7
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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Dec 26 2014, 11:44 PM) But how did it happen in the first place? Is it because it's not being used frequent enough and there are water trapped/remain stagnant in the pump for few days , that's why causing the rust ? This doesn't sound right ley .. Chlorine in the water that causing the corrosion. |
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Dec 27 2014, 01:06 AM
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Dec 31 2014, 07:30 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(Johannlo @ Dec 31 2014, 02:44 PM) interesting. since the plumber disabled the return pipe from grundfos to tangki cause of faulty NRV, and I do not intend to replace the NRV yet, will I face any potential problems in the future? That valve should be pressure relief valve, not non return valve.what's the use of this return pipe anyway? NRV are to prevent back flow while PRV is to control the pipe not to over-pressure and bursting the pipes. |
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Aug 24 2015, 08:29 PM
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QUOTE(showcase @ Aug 24 2015, 05:06 PM) sorry guys, want to ask a question related to piping for water pump. Don't be a cheapskate, use poly pipe direct. PVC is still PVC, what class being used you won't know understand that it is advisable to use PVC class 7 for piping. however, when it comes to PVC fittings (eg. elbow), i realize it does not have any classification. is it correct? or there is classification for PVC fittings as well? many thanks! |
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Sep 28 2015, 04:41 PM
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QUOTE(showcase @ Sep 28 2015, 03:52 PM) thanks for the recommendation. but I don't understand why using PVC Class 7 consider cheapskate as compared to HDPE. base on ATKC website pricing, the price per meter for both is about the same The question now would be, how you know it is class7 PVC? What if some people mixed it with lower class on hidden parts? Most of the piping's wording are faded, so you know I know what is happening. anyway, still hope someone can share for the pipe fittings (eg. reducing Tee), does it have classification? or is it all the same? thanks. That's why I will just opt for poly pipe rather than PVC, lesser chance of getting conned Website pricing can only served as a reference, actual pricing you still need to find out from the shop you buy |
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Oct 4 2015, 01:46 PM
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QUOTE(fahmiyaeii @ Oct 4 2015, 12:34 PM) So any house can't install water pump? Because all new building house using those PVC grey colour pipe.. Need to change to stainless steel all first then install water pump? Stainless steel over do already, just poly pipe will be good enough PVC has too many grades while poly pipe lesser and also joint and corner need to use metal clamp to secure, PVC pipe only use gum. |
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Oct 5 2015, 12:19 PM
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QUOTE(fahmiyaeii @ Oct 5 2015, 10:40 AM) then? how to change to poly pipe? break all those wall & tile? that very pricey.. Grundfos water pump & labour already 1.7k, cost to break and retile wall maybe 5k..total nearly 7k?? wow QUOTE(gtfan @ Oct 5 2015, 12:09 PM) Those poly pipes no need to conceal totally, from outside you can lay it on the side of the wall and go up through the ceiling before entering the water tank.Every material used for pipes tend to leak over the time and you will only knows it when your water bill price are high. In my area, already have 30% of the total of 1500 houses changed to poly pipe or laying the pipe outside. |
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Oct 5 2015, 01:27 PM
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QUOTE(Refuzed @ Oct 5 2015, 01:26 PM) Hi, If any seller tells you their products are maintenance free, I won't buy.I just bought a new double storey house and realised that the water pressure on the 2nd floor is too low. Need to increase the water pressure. What water pumps you guys would suggest? Pls let me know the price with installation. (prefer the maintenance free option though) Thanks! |
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Oct 5 2015, 02:56 PM
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QUOTE(gtfan @ Oct 5 2015, 01:56 PM) I do see people pull poly pipe from main pipe to tangki. Even my old place is using this. Well, what you need to do is make sure the pump's maximum discharge pressure does not go beyond the pipe's rated pressure in the event of the pump's auto cut in-out feature and relief valve failed. Something like if the pump's discharge pressure is 3 bar, the pipe must withstand 5bar minimum.My queries, if I am redoing my bathroom to add copper piping and prefer concealed behind the tile walls, is poly pipe still doable for behind the wall for cold water, or stick to pvc (as you mention there may be a chance some plumber may pull a quick one on unsuspecting home owners) ? Guess describing using numbers will let you understand better. While metal pipes are more durable against pressure, but not stagnant water that will corrodes the pipes. Both of the pipes(metal and non metal) have limitations. While there's AC pipe which is the best, but it post health issues. No perfect material for pipes currently. |
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Oct 5 2015, 03:16 PM
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Oct 17 2015, 10:34 AM
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QUOTE(araveang @ Oct 17 2015, 09:24 AM) hi all sifus, Is more on the pressure control failure.just moved in into rented house, the water pump is for 2nd storey only for cold water supply. if i switch on the pump the pressure is good and constant however there is a very loud knocking sound every now and then. is it more check valve, piping or pump (need servicing)? may i know any vendor that does this and how much are the cost involved thanks |
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Apr 25 2016, 06:59 PM
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QUOTE(fool1988 @ Apr 20 2016, 08:06 AM) Any tools or measure way to know the paip able to handle the pressure before install? Anyway, i am very new on this so just wonder any method to do so Pressure gauge is the only thing you need to know the pressure, as the PVC pipes have the specs, but pipe only carry small aspect on this, the connection joints are more important. |
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Apr 28 2016, 04:34 PM
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Apr 28 2016, 06:09 PM
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