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 [WTA] Grundfos Water Pump, CH-PT or CH-PC

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SUSsupersound
post Aug 26 2014, 08:45 PM

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When a person decided to install water pump to boost the system pressure, is better to upgrade the piping also.
And to be safe, off the power supply when not in use.

SUSsupersound
post Aug 26 2014, 09:07 PM

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QUOTE(justhistime @ Aug 26 2014, 09:02 PM)
^K^ pls pm me your contact too?
Many thanks in advance.
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I'm not here to do business.
I'm here to share my knowledge.
I'm dealing with all sort of pumps for the past 10 years before I change my job.
SUSsupersound
post Oct 20 2014, 09:16 AM

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QUOTE(hickups @ Oct 19 2014, 05:03 PM)
my housing area water pressure was ok although abit low pressure but still ok..
now both my neighbours install water pump directly after the meter..makes my house water pressure very bad...can complain to syabas?? wat action would they be taking?
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Can complaint or "songlap" the Syabas technician to increase your incoming water pressure. Before the meter, they have a special valve that only can be adjusted by their special key. By default, this valve never been adjusted to max, can adjust this first.

SUSsupersound
post Dec 26 2014, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Dec 26 2014, 09:02 PM)
Hi sifus. Would like to check with u.

Is it common that when you turn on the grundfos pump after a few days of non-usage, you get brownish water out of the tap? The brownish water will disappear after like 10 seconds or so. This has happened a few times. Have any of you experienced such symptom ? What could be the reason please? Thank u.
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As long as you have metal in between, this is normal. Stagnant water are good metal killer.
SUSsupersound
post Dec 26 2014, 10:35 PM

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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Dec 26 2014, 09:37 PM)
Oh, maybe let me clarify. There are water outflow from the tank to the same outlets on daily basis. Just that the booster pump isn't turned on everyday. The water has always been clear during normal usage until the booster pump is turned on, then there will be a gush of brownish water. Why ar ?
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Are you telling me that the pump setup has a bypass pipe? If yes, then the rust water are from the pump.
SUSsupersound
post Dec 26 2014, 11:39 PM

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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Dec 26 2014, 11:23 PM)
Yes you are right, it has a bypass setup. Rust water from the pump? Means inside/internal of the pump is rusty? The pump is only a few months old . Shall I be concern please?
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Long term is an issue as it is slowly corroding the pump internal.
SUSsupersound
post Dec 27 2014, 12:05 AM

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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Dec 26 2014, 11:44 PM)
But how did it happen in the first place? Is it because it's not being used frequent enough and there are water trapped/remain stagnant in the pump for few days , that's why causing the rust ? This doesn't sound right ley ..
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Chlorine in the water that causing the corrosion.
SUSsupersound
post Dec 27 2014, 01:06 AM

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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Dec 27 2014, 12:15 AM)
Oh no. Then no hope. My filter don't take out Chlorine. No chlorine also means my tank become bacteria tank , no no no
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Nothing much can be done. That's why I never bother to install a pump even the pressure are not that high if were compare to hotel.
SUSsupersound
post Dec 31 2014, 07:30 PM

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QUOTE(Johannlo @ Dec 31 2014, 02:44 PM)
interesting. since the plumber disabled the return pipe from grundfos to tangki cause of faulty NRV, and I do not intend to replace the NRV yet, will I face any potential problems in the future?

what's the use of this return pipe anyway?
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That valve should be pressure relief valve, not non return valve.
NRV are to prevent back flow while PRV is to control the pipe not to over-pressure and bursting the pipes.

SUSsupersound
post Aug 24 2015, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(showcase @ Aug 24 2015, 05:06 PM)
sorry guys, want to ask a question related to piping for water pump.

understand that it is advisable to use PVC class 7 for piping. however, when it comes to PVC fittings (eg. elbow), i realize it does not have any classification. is it correct? or there is classification for PVC fittings as well?

many thanks!
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Don't be a cheapskate, use poly pipe direct. PVC is still PVC, what class being used you won't know icon_rolleyes.gif
SUSsupersound
post Sep 28 2015, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(showcase @ Sep 28 2015, 03:52 PM)
thanks for the recommendation. but I don't understand why using PVC Class 7 consider cheapskate as compared to HDPE. base on ATKC website pricing, the price per meter for both is about the same  unsure.gif

anyway, still hope someone can share for the pipe fittings (eg. reducing Tee), does it have classification? or is it all the same? thanks.
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The question now would be, how you know it is class7 PVC? What if some people mixed it with lower class on hidden parts? Most of the piping's wording are faded, so you know I know what is happening.
That's why I will just opt for poly pipe rather than PVC, lesser chance of getting conned thumbup.gif
Website pricing can only served as a reference, actual pricing you still need to find out from the shop you buy nod.gif
SUSsupersound
post Oct 4 2015, 01:46 PM

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QUOTE(fahmiyaeii @ Oct 4 2015, 12:34 PM)
So any house can't install water pump? Because all new building house using those PVC grey colour pipe.. Need to change to stainless steel all first then install water pump?
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Stainless steel over do already, just poly pipe will be good enough thumbup.gif
PVC has too many grades while poly pipe lesser and also joint and corner need to use metal clamp to secure, PVC pipe only use gum.
SUSsupersound
post Oct 5 2015, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(fahmiyaeii @ Oct 5 2015, 10:40 AM)
then? how to change to poly pipe? break all those wall & tile? that very pricey.. Grundfos water pump & labour already 1.7k, cost to break and retile wall maybe 5k..total nearly 7k??  wow shocking.gif  shocking.gif
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QUOTE(gtfan @ Oct 5 2015, 12:09 PM)
Is poly pipe suitable for behind the wall ?
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Those poly pipes no need to conceal totally, from outside you can lay it on the side of the wall and go up through the ceiling before entering the water tank.
Every material used for pipes tend to leak over the time and you will only knows it when your water bill price are high.
In my area, already have 30% of the total of 1500 houses changed to poly pipe or laying the pipe outside.
SUSsupersound
post Oct 5 2015, 01:27 PM

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QUOTE(Refuzed @ Oct 5 2015, 01:26 PM)
Hi,

I just bought a new double storey house and realised that the water pressure on the 2nd floor is too low. Need to increase the water pressure.

What water pumps you guys would suggest? Pls let me know the price with installation. (prefer the maintenance free option though)

Thanks!
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If any seller tells you their products are maintenance free, I won't buy.
SUSsupersound
post Oct 5 2015, 02:56 PM

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QUOTE(gtfan @ Oct 5 2015, 01:56 PM)
I do see people pull poly pipe from main pipe to tangki. Even my old place is using this.

My queries, if I am redoing my bathroom to add copper piping and prefer concealed behind the tile walls, is poly pipe still doable for behind the wall for cold water, or stick to pvc (as you mention there may be a chance some plumber may pull a quick one on unsuspecting home owners) ?
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Well, what you need to do is make sure the pump's maximum discharge pressure does not go beyond the pipe's rated pressure in the event of the pump's auto cut in-out feature and relief valve failed. Something like if the pump's discharge pressure is 3 bar, the pipe must withstand 5bar minimum.
Guess describing using numbers will let you understand better.
While metal pipes are more durable against pressure, but not stagnant water that will corrodes the pipes. Both of the pipes(metal and non metal) have limitations. While there's AC pipe which is the best, but it post health issues. No perfect material for pipes currently.
SUSsupersound
post Oct 5 2015, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(gtfan @ Oct 5 2015, 03:12 PM)
Thanks for the info. At least now got something to ask the pump seller with regards to discharge pressure.
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Need to know all in detail, else like you add a pump but using low quality PVC pipes may end up the pipe burst doh.gif
SUSsupersound
post Oct 17 2015, 10:34 AM

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QUOTE(araveang @ Oct 17 2015, 09:24 AM)
hi all sifus,

just moved in into rented house,

the water pump is for 2nd storey only for cold water supply. if i switch on the pump the pressure is good and constant however there is a very loud knocking sound every now and then.

is it more check valve, piping or pump (need servicing)?

may i know any vendor that does this and how much are the cost involved

thanks
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Is more on the pressure control failure.
SUSsupersound
post Apr 25 2016, 06:59 PM

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QUOTE(fool1988 @ Apr 20 2016, 08:06 AM)
Any tools or measure way to know the paip able to handle the pressure before install? Anyway, i am very new on this so just wonder any method to do so icon_question.gif
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Pressure gauge is the only thing you need to know the pressure, as the PVC pipes have the specs, but pipe only carry small aspect on this, the connection joints are more important.
SUSsupersound
post Apr 28 2016, 04:34 PM

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QUOTE(spreeeee @ Apr 28 2016, 03:01 PM)
is the labor charge of rm600 reasonable to install water pump (include wiring, piping, valve)?
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Depends on the length of pipe used and wiring.
Sounds to be right but still the job scope is unknown.
SUSsupersound
post Apr 28 2016, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(spreeeee @ Apr 28 2016, 05:27 PM)
rm600 inclusive everything, material + labor..
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Ok, guess I need to be more specific, is where the pump will be installed and how the piping is done, like can it be bypassed if the pump failed.

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