Then my D90 movie should be lousier.

Experimental street videography

Thanks, and since when D90 got autofocus?

This post has been edited by geekster129: Apr 5 2011, 04:10 PM

Link?

4k is so tempting, the price is so close to a new 85mm f/1.4D...I think?

How could it end? Next time you can tell your children:

I used to own a D90, but now is already a dinosaur.

60fps to do slow motion, maybe?

D700 will become a dinosaur soon? Oh nuuuuuu

RM380.... cheapest price?

haha... That's why i like to watch froknowsphoto

The word constant refers to the aperture. Meaning at any focal length you can always get a constant (largest aperture) possible. Certain lens, like 70-200mm f/2.8 will let you go f/2.8 no matter what focal length you go, be it 70mm, 85mm or 200mm.

Try it on your kitlens, everytime you zoom, your maximum aperture will become smaller. That's why the lens there got say f/3.5-5.6 mar... At 18mm, your camera let you go until f/3.5, then maybe at 105mm, your camera will only let you go until f/5.6 max. For the case of a 18-105 zoom lens.

This post has been edited by geekster129: Apr 12 2011, 05:26 PM

f/1.4 is already like one big fat pipe carrying so much water(light), then couple with a huge swimming pool (FX sensor) to contain the water(light). Think about amount of available light the camera can handle.

This post has been edited by geekster129: Apr 12 2011, 05:33 PM

Provided the SS is below 1/200. At this SS your pic will guarantee *boom* (overexposed) at very broad daylight.

Otherwise, couple with an ND filter, but ND filter so expensive lar... go get a reflector.

Decrease clarity then you can have instant facial for them.



But now seldom use this technique anymore, who ask them dowan to make up properly??? Blame the models.

This post has been edited by geekster129: Apr 12 2011, 05:41 PM

You have to think this way when you're doing flash, there will be 2 light sources: Available (ambient) light and Flash.

Ambient light is the lights at your surrounding, e.g. let's say you go to a ballroom and the tungsten lights or from the chandelier will be your ambient light. SS and Aperture will affect how much ambient light you can get.

Now for flash it's a bit different. Remember, flash fires very quickly, so shutter speed will not affect much of the flash output due to the fact that the light just flash for a few miliseconds, so there's merely no time for your camera sensor to pick up additional light.

Now why we always get digicam effect (Subject look very bright, but the whole surrounding look like a cave)? This is because the camera, usually at Auto setting will attempt to meter your subject accordingly and at the same time try to make sure there's no camera motion blur due to low SS. So, the camera will think that flash is sufficient enough to lit the subject and hence increase the shutter speed to prevent motion blur. But this will literally kill of the ambient light (slower SS -> more ambient light, faster SS -> lesser ambient light). This explains the cave-like look.

Now to have the foreground and background to lit evenly, we use a technique called dragging the shutter, in which we slow down the SS in Manual mode, i think usually, and what happen is now, the subject is now as lit up as the background. But once again, the caveat of this technique is 1: Low SS will always get you into the risk of camera motion blur, 2: In a typical ballroom or restaurant, if the ambient light is yellow and your flash is white(usually blue), you will have 2 color tones in your photo which usually look undesirable, that is where you have to start playing and adjusting your white balance. Some people uses color gel on the flash. to solve the WB issue. How much ambient light you want to let in to your camera depends on your creativity requirements. Generally speaking, there's no right or wrong.

This post has been edited by geekster129: Apr 12 2011, 05:57 PM

Haha... thanks for adding this point too.

You will be in the model's blacklist the next day.

http://www.photomalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118106

Are you talking about the high speed sync?

I only know front curtain sync, rear curtain sync and high speed sync.

err.. shooting at wide open doesn't always guarantee crisper pictures. Depending on the lens and the focusing.