Once in a while shoot such pic also fun xD.

Erm got 1 friend working in BTS camera shop quoted me that price. Outside you maybe can ask YL or J-one for that.

thanks a lot for the info ... looks like i have to make another trip to J-One then ...

their 16-35 & 24-70 is kind of expensive ...   

Welcome to the Dark Side 

Have to learnt from Sifus

d7000 have to update the firmware?

Wait until you're a Nikon user to join back xD

it wont fit with batt grip.
the padded section is just enough to fit d90 + 18-105 / 17-55, that kinda length.
so with 50mm attached u need the divider to place the grip seperately.

i was worried about that too cos i am going to get the 16-35 soon ... D90 + MB-D80 + 16-35 is going to be real tight on the Passport Sling ...

anyway, is it possible for u to check the price of the Black Rapid RS-7 in Penang ???

i use my passport sling if i want to travel light....means body + lens and no grip.
if i want to add more stuff, i place this into the passport sling...
http://www.dgcoloronline.com/v2/products.p...sid=63&pid=1001

or i just use some other bag like lowepro inverse 200 or think tank retrospective 20.

i just checked some videos of the Passport Sling ... definitely cant fit what i want to carry inside ... looks like it will be a Black Rapid RS-7 if u can get a good price in Penang for me bro ...

i tried the RS-5 & RS-7 ... prefer the RS-7 in the end ... do let me know if u can get some good prices on the RS-7 bro ...     

AF-C only when I'm shooting moving objects. If use AF-C on stationary object I can't recompose, meaning my framing is pretty much fixed. Unless of course I can make use of the AF-ON button where I set to Shutter priority in AF-C and AF only on AF-ON. Then I can have best of 2 worlds! Some of my friends does this but I'm not used to it unfortunately.

1Dmk3 is a APS-H. 1Dsmk3 then is their flagship full frame.

Sorry, but that one is for people who don't understand or don't know how to use their camera and shoot.

It's a technique, and as with technique, it depends how you use it. If there is problem, blame the user, not the technique.

I guess you're shooting close-up with 35mm f/1.8 @ f/1.8?
If yes, the DOF is shallow, and if you move even a little the focus plane will change; To test this, you can try use AF-C, then focus on one area and hold it. If the lens re-focus, it means you moved a little and the focus plane changed. In this situation, using AF-C you might get less chance of OOF; BUt with AF-C, you can't focus and re-compose.

IF you're using AF-S and shooting up-close @ f/1.8, and you're using focus and re-compose, then your problem is obvious.

Hehe, actually I'm referring to the article writer when I see the title. The focus re-compose technique is not something new, plus it's widely use, especially when there is only 1 focus point, or for point and shoot, or handphone camera. For DSLR, it more towards how the user use the camera; ESPECIALLY, when they start to explore big aperture lens, go nuts with wide open, and not understanding DOF, focus plane, etc. ended up blaming everything else but themselves.

next target might be full frame 
but still loooonnnnngggg wayyyyy toooooo gooooo

---

Added on April 12, 2011, 1:49 pm

i guess state your budget and let those pros suggestion better... maybe some begginer body perform better than that.

If you want to focus and re-compose and you're shooting close up, then try using smaller aperture, you can stop down the aperture and try. Also make sure you hold the camera steady because close up shot, your slight movement (body/hand/camera) will affect the focus plane; You might not even know you did move, because when shooting close up, usually we take our time to compose the picture and shoot.
If you use Tripod, then the movement problem is very much reduced.

For your case, if you stop down too much, then it will affect the EFFECT you want to achieve, like you want to blur out certain parts; So you need to play around with the aperture to get the EFFECT you want, and still capable of letting you focus and re-compose. When you focus and recompose, try to maintain "within" the focus plane.

When you stop down, you need to compensate with slower shutter speed or increase ISO (if it's lowlight); In this case, shooting handheld, you have limited shutter speed, you have to revert to ISO; unless you're using tripod.
WHen you increase ISO, it will affect your overall image quality and sharpness; If you really want to maximize the performance, get good lighting or use flash. If you friend have flash gun, try borrow and bounce the flash off the wall, and experience the improvement on the overall image result you will be getting.

I went with flash first, no regrets . But nowadays I rarely use my flash LOL.

yeah..+1 for your opinion.
i want to go further in this field..and for starting, i prefer not so basic dslr like d3100.even it got so many added value and many features.most of the ex user of d3100 tend to sell after 6monts to 1 year usage to upgrade because already familiar.if i got so much money, its ok for me to upgrade in the short period of time. but im not that kind of rich person..

with this kind of budget, what is the best for 2nd hand DSLR..

which post?
"the some beginner body (D3100) is better than mid range (D80) body?"

Prefer not to use flash as most of the time flash makes PP life tough . If really want to use flash, you need to have matching color gels then the outcome would be nice!

FX and f/1.4 not exactly the reason with D90 and f/2.8 I've started shooting without flash!

what the different betwen prime and constant zoom?
constant zoom cannot zoom also 

oic 
anyone know d7000 got fill flash? i cant find under my d7000 

Haha of course when you use FX + f/1.4 you actually have more options to use available light only