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 Kitchen Sink, which one

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ozak
post May 15 2011, 02:41 PM

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I have been using this Franke sink for over 12yrs. 1 big bowl and 1 small. Below got coating which i dont no what purpose till recently found out.

So far no rust, stain or whatever. Just use detergent to wash and it shine back.
ozak
post May 15 2011, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(gunh @ May 15 2011, 03:16 PM)
franke is expensive sink... good choice if u got budget... else teka also not bad...
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Actually I don't no that at that time. And never hear before this brand. Just like the design and the functioning.
ozak
post Nov 28 2011, 05:44 PM

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QUOTE(Jo_da48 @ Nov 27 2011, 10:14 PM)
Today finally get the tab in place (D.I.Y) after purchased almost 6 months ago, where sink in place 5 months ago

Combination of Sorento Sink 2028F and Fetone TF-6

[attachmentid=2556330][attachmentid=2556331][attachmentid=2556332]
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What is that square box behind the tap? hmm.gif
ozak
post May 24 2012, 10:32 AM

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QUOTE(tomjason @ May 24 2012, 10:20 AM)
For kicthen, it is advisable wall mounted. Easily to change tab if the tab faulty. Under mount, difficult to change tap later.
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I don't see it difficult to change the tap either wall or sink mount. Sink mount is using a big nut to secure and wall mount is direct screw in. Both still need a tool to tight/loose it.

I think sink mount look better and have more advantage than wall mount. Sink mount look tidy. Can locate your tap anywhere and change your sink position is not a problem. Since the pipe hole at below and can use flex hose.

While wall mount is a bit ugly. Specially screw side to the pipe hole. Installer must aim nicelly to your sink. Otherwise your tap will out of position. Cannot locate your sink anyhow. Need to hack the wall and redo the piping if sink change position. Even a sink change will have problem.
ozak
post Jul 15 2012, 10:12 AM

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QUOTE(pooi_pooi1 @ Jul 14 2012, 10:43 PM)
Mr ozak,

Lets say the kitchen sink has no space for installing sink mount tap. Then we have to drill a hole on the kitchen table top. If we are using conrete table top, it is 3-3.5 inches thick. Would the kitchen tap able to penetrate through?

Please advice.
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You mean the tap screw thread that long enough compare to your table top thickness? For this kind of joint, the table top is ready with the pipe socket at the surface level. You need to search for the direct screw in tap. Just like the wall type. While wall type is 90degree, but the table top is vertical.

It is a bit ugly at the table top socket side with the tap screw. Try look for those with a cover that can coverup for nice finishing.
ozak
post Jul 29 2012, 04:05 PM

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QUOTE(craftsnknots @ Jul 26 2012, 05:03 PM)
really? why? I intend to have the tap between the two bowl. Also left or right bowl bigger does not matter. It is a matter of preference. My big bowl is on the left because it is nearer to the dishes and the stove (so after using the wok, transfer to the big bowl and wash. Will soap dishes on the small bowl on the right then rinse on the left and place in the dish rack which is on the left..nearer also...just a preference...
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Left or right very much depend on the kitchen design. The tap is alway at the center bow. The small 1. I m using the big and small bow too. But the sink is already have a tap hole center. Just buy the tap and fix in. My big bow is at the left. Away from stove and beside the windows.
ozak
post May 23 2015, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(pengjoo @ May 23 2015, 01:38 PM)
May I know where you bought Franke sink?
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Sorry. Forget already. It is somewhere promotion warehouse.
ozak
post May 24 2015, 03:56 PM

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QUOTE(Chigme @ May 24 2015, 11:22 AM)
I choose top mount, easy to change the sink in future without damage to countertop. So far I use two years no leaking problem , silicon still working fine and not dirty as claim.
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I use top mount and love the sink very much. Guess I will use it in my entire life if it don't spoil. wub.gif

If I throw it away, don't think I can get back that material quality.
ozak
post Jun 4 2015, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(itekderp @ Jun 3 2015, 12:54 PM)
Flush mount should be only for sinks with completely flat rims, am I correct? Sadly not possible with mine.
Still looking for tips on how to mount, don't want any leakages in the future.
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Why so difficult to mount a sink? What is the reason your contractor given you that it easy to leak? Where will it leak?
ozak
post Jun 4 2015, 10:05 AM

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QUOTE(itekderp @ Jun 4 2015, 09:42 AM)
My contractor claimed it will leak, partly because I feel he doesn't have experience doing top mounted sinks.
As for now, I'm planning to do it myself but not very sure how to as it seems I'll have to put a ton of sealant on the rim lol. It's Teka's Intro, and the edge where the sink meets the counter is very thin with a deep hollow inside. Sort of like an inverted U.

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Put the sink picture here, back and front and everything. What is the sink model.

Probably people here can help you.

I m using top mount sink for 18yrs. Not even a drip of water leak down till now. But it is a good sink.
ozak
post Jun 4 2015, 08:17 PM

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QUOTE(itekderp @ Jun 4 2015, 03:19 PM)
user posted image
It's this one.
If you notice the edges, the rim curves down at the edge to meet the counter and the parts below the rim is hollow. So the problem is if I'm to apply sealant, I'm going to need a heck lot to fill all 4 edges. I feel the edge alone is not enough to apply sealant as most I can apply is maybe half bead since the steel is not exactly thick and also curved.

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Aiyo, pack like that how to see? Cannot brain what you mean aslso.

BTW, your picture model cannot find in teka website. Fake 1?
ozak
post Jun 4 2015, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(itekderp @ Jun 4 2015, 09:35 PM)
It's actually from past season, or only available in certain markets. That's a problem with Teka actually, they have a lot of models and the website sometimes doesn't even give support for certain models. Had the same problem with my hood also.

What I mean is, if you look at the edge you can see it curved downwards. The rim itself is quite big, and underneath that is hollow. So the only point making contact with the counter is the edge of the rim. Imagine a piece of bent metal, or reverse U shape like I mentioned.
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Try to open and see got rubber seal or not.

You no need to apply the whole inside. Just at the almost the edge is enough. Once to press on it, the seal will spread out. Wipe clean the seal that spit out.

I saw the sink like got some clip lock at the side.
ozak
post Jun 5 2015, 08:40 AM

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QUOTE(itekderp @ Jun 5 2015, 04:30 AM)
Yep, there's a clip lock attached.
No rubber seal though, just empty spaces. If I apply only on the edge, quite worried that the seal won't be enough since the contact point with the counter is very, very thin. Unless I custom make a rubber seal, or fill the hollow with some rubber material to make a flat edge.

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I don't understand what you mean very very thin the contact. Can't see the picture sink properly how is the edge shape. Get a close up picture and the bottom side.

You can get the rubber from the ACE. Those door and window seal rubber. I forget the brand. Still have a roll in my store room.

This is my sink edge. Any similar? I don't remember it have a rubber seal or using silicon. But I cannot see any silicon seal on the whole edge of the sink.

user posted image
ozak
post Jun 5 2015, 08:52 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jun 5 2015, 08:44 AM)
look at the photo you posted - the rims is curved upwards and inside it is hollow so there is no place to put the silicone
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The photo I post, end of the edge have flat surface and seal properly to the table top. The rim is also hollow.

What the rims curved upwards ?
ozak
post Jun 5 2015, 08:57 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jun 5 2015, 08:44 AM)
look at the photo you posted - the rims is curved upwards and inside it is hollow so there is no place to put the silicone

ozak - do you mean these weather seals?
user posted image
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Yeah. You remind me. RAVEN. This is the 1 I buy.

The rubber is very soft and compact in easily since inside is empty. So put on the heavy sink will compact in easily. (Won't lift up the sink) And it come in 2 seal. That totally seal out everything.
ozak
post Jun 5 2015, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jun 5 2015, 09:32 AM)
can buka your sink and show us  laugh.gif
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Hell. I don't want touch it. Once open and all the hell break loose. (leak) sweat.gif
ozak
post Jun 5 2015, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jun 5 2015, 09:33 AM)
do you think i should use this rubber seal instead of applying silicone? i hate silicone
only thing takut the sink move about only but its a heavy sink
my sink has a flat rim and not hollow
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Flat rim no need rubber seal la. It will lift up the sink and look ugly. And cut your hand if bump to it. Why not undermount?

The sink should have the clip and screw. It prevent the sink from move around.

Your 1 is only can seal by silicon. But silicon will get mold after sometime. Can't run away. Try look for any other sealant at least anti mold.
ozak
post Jun 5 2015, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Jun 5 2015, 09:59 AM)
thats why i hate silicone. put one thin thin rubber seal cannot meh?
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The rubber thickness must below 1mm. Even 1mm consider too high.

I check at RS catalog. There is a tape call Polyethylene foam tape. Thickness is only 0.8mm. Another 1 call Polyethylene carrier-Tesa 51968. Thickness 0.3mm.


ozak
post Jun 6 2015, 09:28 PM

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"10-YEAR MOLD-FREE PRODUCT PROTECTION
The mold-free product protection helps keep the cured caulk mold- and mildew-free and looking clean for 10 years, with regular cleaning. Mold is not only an unsightly and embarrassing problem to have in the kitchen or bathroom, but it might also lead to health problems. Some caulk might claim limited protection, but Kitchen & Bath Supreme Silicone caulk is formulated for increased protection."

Have to read carefully.
ozak
post Jun 7 2015, 06:51 PM

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QUOTE(pengjoo @ Jun 7 2015, 06:39 PM)
Hi,
Anyone seen this model before?
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Don't tell me you want it for your home kitchen.

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