Sharing some pictures of new collection; please ignore the background



This post has been edited by Andy214: Mar 19 2011, 11:24 AM

Are you on "Quiet" mode?

How fast shutter you use?

Check your Exposure Delay mode settings. If you turn it on, there will be delay about 1s.
It's under Shooting/Display settings.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Mar 19 2011, 12:43 PM

Bro, if you're shooting still objects and have all the time, you can slowly adjust your camera, epecially the white balance, play with the lightings, flash, etc. If you're shooting event, you want to get it right in camera 100% without PP? It's godlike... (Edit: you can preset WB, but still, it's not 100% fooproof)

Shoot raw, you have more control over PP especially the WB.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Mar 21 2011, 04:36 PM

Wearing Dark Lord helmet, with red eyes (light) and red lightsaber (red ring), they'll be laughing at this statement made from Mr. Greenie

Just kidding

Lightroom have preset settings for RAW files, so it will adjust the brightness, contrast, etc when you import the RAW files and loaded the presets.

There is also Lens correction which you can apply.

I think you can set it in the settings, I never bother to disable it though.

When you shoot in raw and view in camera, what you see is the preview with settings applied, like what you would see when you shoot in jpeg. If you camera have in-camera raw processing, you can process it with different settings, even adjust the exposure, wb, etc. to ouput to the jpg output you desired.

I think you can change the default preeet for the raw file as well, so it will always use the preset when you import it.

Most important, $$$

Not sure how he define the WB changed, unless he specifically compare the WB settings, if by looking at the picture alone in camera, then there can be many factors, such as the monitor, then the contrast applied on the picture when loaded in LR with preets, etc.

To know the actual WB changed or not, will need to check the data of the image.

Hm... something new learned... I thought adjusting under-expose will introduce more noise. This will be difficult during event shooting as we can't always get the right WB.

Shooting under-expose image with lower iso will give mopre noise than shooting right exposure with higher iso.

It's tricky especially if you're shooting event and have no time to set the wb, will use auto and trust the camera, even so when I pp, will notice the wb not consistent due to different condtion of lighting as you move around. Usually these are just minor tweaks

Talk about flash, it gives different wb feel comapred to no flash, hence, the natural vs with lighting. The hard to get WYSIWYG image is even harder with flash, but you can get some nice effect or lighting with flash off the wall. It's harder to get the WYSIWYG image indoors especially like Karaoke room with very dim lightings.

Even now I think this trick still applies especially for DX even for D7000 which said to have good high ISO. once shot undereposed, even iso 800 or lower gets really noisy, losing lots of details and sharpness. I guess thats one reason why some people complaint the iso is not good but actually they're under-exposing their image?

This post has been edited by Andy214: Mar 21 2011, 05:56 PM

Can change WB in LR for jpeg, but not as flexible like RAW. RAW file you can adjust by small increments of temperature.

If you know the distance, you can use pre-focus technique, focus on somethingelse of same distance roughly, hold the shutter half way to keep the focus lock or use the AE-L button then move back to your subject. Depend in you want to lock the exposure or not, you can set this in settings.
If you're using wide apeeture and close distance, it'll be harder to get the focus right.

These are the basics when you're using point and shoot or phone camera with no manual focus control.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Mar 22 2011, 11:51 AM

Indeed, the hardest part is for people to admit their own mistakes; but those that does, will move on and go further. Usually, the biggest obstacle is the part to admit and learn. I guess it also depends on how a person is brought up, as usual, most peopl will tend to tease, laugh and make joke at someone who did wrong, this will shape the person into someone who's not willing to admit mistakes, so if we have kids, its important for us to make them understand its ok to make mistakes and learn from it.

Knowdlege, skills, experience is never ending and its nothing to do with age or if the person is newbie or profesional. Personally, I wouldn't look down on someone who is new or fresh, who knows, he/she might know something that I don't even know, or have more creative ideas. This applies to any field.

Disclaimer: The statement above is not meant for anyone, but just find its good to mention this since jchue73 mention this.

My cheap 2 shutter clicks.

SB700 can get around RM950 or cheaper.
SB900 can get around RM1500 or cheaper.

My friend say wanna buy till today still surveying and unsure which to get. He almost gotten SB800 BRAND NEW, apparently some shops clearing stock? But he is slow a bit, someone book it first.

For most situation, I'd say SB700 is good enough, unless you need more Powah or Range?
Plus the SB700 looks good, nice menu, nice shape, and have nice accessories.

Just sharing my opinion.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Mar 25 2011, 11:53 AM

Internet source:
MyLensDB.com shows RM950 by J-One.
PhotoMalaysia, someone from Penang got it for RM900. some others posted around RM950 +/-

I think my friend found RM950 somewhere in LowYat. Need to check with him again first.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Mar 25 2011, 12:17 PM

Maybe the hike up the price again, checked with my friend, it was one of the shops in LowYat but he can't remember which, should be the 3rd or 4th floor area.

Its adequate for weddings, but how good/great it depends on how one judges it. Of course, if can get SB900 will be great.

Nikkor 35mm shoot-out:
http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Nikon_Ni..._compared.shtml

85mm f/1.4G:
http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Nikon_Ni...F-S_85mm_f1-4G/

What lens? Shooting kids/babies who is constantly moving unpredictably, plus you most likely shooting at close distance, try to stop down you aperture to like f/2.5 or f/2.8, use external flash and use lower ISO, like 400 or below.

When you lock on, if the baby or kid moved, the focus plane may shift and you will not get the correct focus; For these kind of shooting, it's harder to get the right moment when you want and you most probably need to re-focus a lot (of use AF-C); Also if you want to use focus and recompose method, then you need to be more careful.

Shooting babies/kids which constantly moves unpredictably is hard, especially if you keep close distance and using wide aperture. Stop down your aperture, use flash to compensate lower iso and fast enough shutter speed to stop motion.

Try aperture like f3.5? or f4?
Use flash and shutter speed 1/80 or faster if need to prevent blur, and try to keep iso below 400 to minimize noise and maximize sharpness and details.

That's very slow shutter speed... the kid is not moving? your lens got VR?
Try use external flash and bounce off the wall, maintain low iso and smaller aperture especially at such close distance, with wide aperture, when you focus and the kid move later, the focus plane will be changed, plus if you recompose also same.

Try with external flash and low iso, you'll love the sharpness, detail, clarity and also the lighting effects of bouning off wall.