VDO.... As far as I know, only the speedo are easy to fail.... As for radiator issue, whenever it shows high, do check your radiator fan.
LYN Proton Wira Club (LYN-PWC) V-XXVI, Come in & let's discuss about Wira
|
|
 Apr 15 2011, 11:11 AM
Return to original view | Post
#61
|
 
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006 
|
|
Quote|
|
|
|
|
Apr 16 2011, 02:47 PM
Return to original view | Post
#62
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Since it is a Protong Wira, my offer will be rm9500......
|
|
|
Apr 16 2011, 04:08 PM
Return to original view | Post
#63
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
How about Century? The original NS45(or 40) lasted me 3 years 10 months before I'm hard to start my car. 2003 1.5 injection. Now using Century Gold NS70 non MF also since 2008 June and added 1 time of water only....
Better add silicone grease to protect your terminals, change the alternator cable(from fuse box to battery) and you are good to go... Won't cost much. |
|
|
Apr 16 2011, 05:44 PM
Return to original view | Post
#64
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
QUOTE(lixc @ Apr 16 2011, 04:25 PM) i just checked, i am using NS40AS (40AH), dated 2.5 years. Sometimes hard to start (need click 2 to 3 times), sometimes okay... Bro, that's the initial sign of battery going to die... You got roughly another 1 month max to change your battery.... Alternator cable any idea cost how much? Got specific brand/model recommendation? I not sure i got change before or not... hahaha...  Make sure to start everyday if you still don't want to change yet or don't arm your alarm. Just manual lock.... As for the cable, wireman should able to kawtim for you on this. Won't be that expensive. But it will be expensive if you go to acc shop.... Or cheapest method still, take them out and clean. Then apply silicone grease(cost you rm25-40 from element14). Anyway, just change my engine oil from semi-syn to ELF fully-syn 5W40. The response are way better and rpm only 3000 when hit 110km/h..... |
|
|
Apr 16 2011, 10:54 PM
Return to original view | Post
#65
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Well, I might be telling lies, but my car won't.....
And when using semi-syn for the last 8 years, my engine rpm always maintaining on 3100 when reach speed of 110km/h. When I start using alcohol as solvent to clean my injection heads, I got about 3050 for 110km/h. After the engine overhaul, rpm maintain back at 3100.... Today using this fully-syn, it drops to 3000... BTW, you may continue to hide that line, as everything can affect how an engine perform. Like using RON95 or RON97 and the effect.... Initial also I keep on saying RON95 are good for my engine, but as soon as I want to rev higher and higher speed, my engine are very noisy. Still petrol no effect to engine? If spark plugs have no effect to engine's performance, than every rm20 can suit all, but why still got people want to buy those iridium plugs? If engine oil got no effect on engine, then why there's mineral, semi-syn and fully-syn? And why people will just use fully-syn on their high performance car? |
|
|
Apr 16 2011, 11:16 PM
Return to original view | Post
#66
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Aik? No more hidden lines? And my questions also you can't answer? Are you a dumb or coward?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 16 2011, 11:43 PM
Return to original view | Post
#67
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
^Coward, my questions cannot answer but still want to bark around?
|
|
|
Apr 17 2011, 12:16 AM
Return to original view | Post
#68
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Ok then, now I'm making some false ads, go buy your self a fully-syn oil and test in your car. After all, you will only lose rm1++ if I'm mislead you...
Still, I like people that have not much knowledge and trying to be a hero by simply insult others. 8 years ago I never tried fully-syn oil, so can't tell. But after overhaul I got the chance to test and this is the simple review which I would like to share among Wira owners. |
|
|
Apr 17 2011, 12:05 PM
Return to original view | Post
#69
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
QUOTE(maxgenesis @ Apr 17 2011, 12:48 AM) this my personal opinion... Well, I stick to ELF or BHP just because I know the distributor and I got a very good price for this fully-syn..... the older the car is better to use mineral or much higher viscosity because the higher the viscosity the much 'thicker' thus it protects more ur engine part. but the higher viscosity, higher FC due to its thickness. if u take car like, i using cycle method which is mineral -> semi -> full syn den cycle again thus i feel d difference everything i change. OR if u really love ur car, use semi n fully but change it every 5k. dont wait till 8k or 10k. like my fren using 5w30 for his nissan sentra, he change everytime 5k or less den tht aft he check the dip stick. so my conclusion fully is much less FC comparing semi den semi less FC comparing mineral. also careful of imitation, maybe u buy a imitation den u get poor result comparing ppl who using same as u. my choice of brand elf, brahdal, motul, Q8, castrol, addinol and royal purple brand also got effect with same viscosity, eg i cannot use castrol full syn 0w30 but i can use brahdal 5w30, same viscosity 30 but why cant use, no idea maybe bcoz different company different additive.. for spark plug also got effect but i think is bcoz is spark power, to burn the petrol. for me it got effect bcoz on both power and less FC. i think bcoz the fuel burn properlly kua. petrol, different company different additive so which is much more FC is also effect the age of the car n how u take care car eg wut engine oil u using, wut spark plug, spark plug cable, ATF, air filter, oil filter and etc... i still like esso ron95 comparing other company bcoz it really save FC. my full tank rm 70 can go up to max 480... in the end, u decide wut is best for ur car. The visco ratings most of the time are not that accurate, they shall publish the visco after the engine were heated up, say 90°C. At ambient temperature, every oil can get 30 does not means that at 90°C all still the same. I choose Bosch Super4 all the time not just because it can last longer of 50-60kkm(filled with carbon and still perform like a new plug), cost me rm56. If were to use those original plugs, rm2+ if not mistaken, it can only last 10-15kkm. Compare the same mileage of 60kkm, I saved rm4+ on Super4..... QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Apr 17 2011, 01:49 AM) tis 1 i totally agreed ~ Well, at least pour 1 time just to test power... And Mobil1 fully-syn even mad, said can last you for 25kkm before change....rather than many ppl din't realise tat but put lower viscosity in old 4G9series will actually kill d engine slowly~ cuz i've paid a very good lesson from it but i remembered sum1 used to said work for/in proton claim tat more than 10yrs can use fully like 5w40/3w30 or 10w30 wit no prob at all  QUOTE(Rascal Stitch @ Apr 17 2011, 02:05 AM) yes,i'm waiting for it to run i at 1.5k km 1st b4 putting it good engine to it~ 1500km only change? I change at 1000km the oil are like it is been used for 5000km.... time for smoother rev n safe sum fc ~  |
|
|
Apr 17 2011, 03:04 PM
Return to original view | Post
#70
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Because yours are Protong Wira... Tried on Mudah or the star also cannot find a car that matched your name. But when searched on internet, it says it is a Proton imitation. So why I want to pay more for an imitation product?
|
|
|
Apr 17 2011, 08:31 PM
Return to original view | Post
#71
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
QUOTE(JenHuang @ Apr 15 2011, 02:43 PM) hi all I repeat for the second time, it is an imitation Proton, rm8500 already too much as to respect the plastics put in... Else I will only pay rm5000.....i wanna sell my protong wira 1.5manual, year 2002, full bodykit. interested pls let me know thanks XD |
|
|
Apr 18 2011, 10:33 AM
Return to original view | Post
#72
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Any car will be the same... With ABS may help some, but not all the time....
That's why, follow the speed limits are the safest way.... |
|
|
Apr 18 2011, 06:59 PM
Return to original view | Post
#73
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Make it this way to keep your car in tip top condition at any 1 time. This is what I like on Wira, easy to maintain and cheap :
flush your radiator once every 30000km which you can do it at once with flushing brake fluid, power steering flush.... Actually this 30000km is a general figure only... But no harm to do it... |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 27 2011, 04:49 PM
Return to original view | Post
#74
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
You need to cover it for ~rm600... Your insurance going to expire? If yes, wait for a while and buy the add on insurance then claim later date....
Or can try to repair it first if the damage are not that big. Should cost rm80 for that... |
|
|
Apr 27 2011, 05:46 PM
Return to original view | Post
#75
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Close to rm600..... Since you got almost a year, just repair it first will do.... Or unless you willing to pay ~rm600.
The insurance only rm1++ and repair the windscreen rm80 per hole/crack depending on condition.... |
|
|
Apr 27 2011, 07:23 PM
Return to original view | Post
#76
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Well, as long as is double layer, should be good enoguh.... The rm600 story is when you buying insurance for the wind screen.....
Just make sure it is not single layer as it will be very dangerous when hit by stone..... |
|
|
Apr 27 2011, 08:28 PM
Return to original view | Post
#77
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Sure boh on this?
Double layer = when hit by stone, it will have a crack on that spot and slowly grow on a single direction. After reach the end, it will start another direction.... On this, better don't get your windscreen to subject to thermal shock, else it will crack faster and more... As it is double layer, only outer layer cracks, the inner layer will "hold" the out layer. Single layer = cheaper and when a stone hits, it will crack like a normal glass. In Malay, hancur berkecai..... And very messy also to clear it up. My explanation might not be good, haha..... |
|
|
Apr 28 2011, 08:17 AM
Return to original view | Post
#78
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
Procedure is dirt simple :
1. now you cannot buy seperately like last time, you got crack you buy and claim, no questions asked. 2. must buy together with your normal insurance together with windscreen insurance, usually no questions asked. But don't claim after you got it. If do like this, you are putting your agent in a complicated situation. Just wait for another few months before submit a claim. When doing claim, you no need to take photo, your agent will do the job. Just give them a call and drive your car there. |
|
|
Apr 28 2011, 12:43 PM
Return to original view | Post
#79
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
^Well, rm90 for rm600, it is worth it what.....
looks like I got conned by that agent.... I paid rm130 5 years back for replacing the windscreen.... |
|
|
Apr 28 2011, 03:09 PM
Return to original view | Post
#80
|
|
Senior Member
888 posts Joined: May 2006
|
^This you must have an agent is your good friend..... Or at least have good relation with the company.... As I never buy the windscreen insurance before(only once when I got a big crack), so if they want to ask more questions, it is normal.... Because is not us as the end user doing frauds, but the adjuster did.... So they are more strict on this....
Added on April 28, 2011, 3:09 pmBut I think stone chip should not be any problem.... This post has been edited by kyheng: Apr 28 2011, 03:09 PM |
|
Topic ClosedOptions
|
| Change to: |  0.0359sec
 0.61
 7 queries
 GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 16th December 2025 - 12:19 AM |
All Rights Reserved © 2002- 2025 Vijandren Ramadass (~unite against racism~)
Powered by Invision Power Board © 2025 IPS, Inc.