4g15p injection auto (1.5) to 4g93t injection manual (1.8 turbo)
the transplant rules, you can get it from JPJ (bahagian teknikal).
in brief, 1.5 to 1.8 is OK.. 1.3 to 1.8 cannot.
engine mounting cannot modify, mitsubishi 4g91, 92, 93, even the V6 engine 6A10 6A11 have same mounting. (need some sifu to clarfify), so all these model are ok for wira.

This post has been edited by wailup: May 2 2011, 01:24 PM

it was 2++yrs ago. rm13k OTR.
with std GSR engine, i believe the chassis is strong enough to handle the power.
your car accident b4? to wat extend?

not sure, i only know the piston is not same.

it depends on the type of engine you wants. ban will only have minimal effect for 4g93t user la.. since it's parts can be easily find.

1. before start the car, check the engine by open up the engine oil cap. see the internal. brownish or shiny. shiny better la.
2. open up radiator cap, see water clear or not. normally is clear de lo.. dun wanna see rust water.
3. start engine, let it run idle. listen to the exhaust sound. the rhythm of the beat should be even. unless they put highcam or something inside.
4. check engine vibration while idling.
5. rev the engine, listen the exhaust. no misfiring. no funny firecracker sound.
6. drive the car, in slow, accelerate, braking, cornering, and try all the gear from 1 to 5 and R.

btw, i have no idea how to check on the car chassis (whether did it suffer major accident b4 or not)

offence not taken.. hahaha..
1. before start the car, check the engine by open up the engine oil cap. see the internal. brownish or shiny. shiny better la.
This, they can always change the engine oil..... change engine oil wont remove the brown/black stain on the metal parts, unless they took out the top cover and clean it.
2. open up radiator cap, see water clear or not. normally is clear de lo.. dun wanna see rust water.
They can always wash it a day before..... if they din wash, then you can know its condition. the water reservoir color will also tells you whether it uses coolant, or kena rust water alot...
3. start engine, let it run idle. listen to the exhaust sound. the rhythm of the beat should be even. unless they put highcam or something inside.
This is the most important part, if engine no good, it will cost rm1000-2000 just to repair it back. Best to know when the car is left overnight. Cold start on next morning will tell thousand stories...
4. check engine vibration while idling.
Mounting problem are small matter, change the mounting and case closed. Unless chasis got problem. small matter, but it can be a bargain point to lower down its selling price. coz we need to pay to repair it. or the seller repair it for you.
5. rev the engine, listen the exhaust. no misfiring. no funny firecracker sound.
Not all can differenciate this.
6. drive the car, in slow, accelerate, braking, cornering, and try all the gear from 1 to 5 and R.
This is good for checking the suspension system. and gearbox condition too.
btw, i have no idea how to check on the car chassis (whether did it suffer major accident b4 or not)
This, use your hand to feel it.....

if got 5k extra for repairing.. it's very very sufficient jor..

you will need the oil squirtters. if not, your engine wont last long. piston wall overheat ka..

DEFINITELY NOT 1.3..

1.6!!! yes! 1.8 better, 1.8T YAH BABY!!

you save a 'few' K only.. but with 1.3... you cant overtake cars safely.. your FC high.. you wont enjoy the ride..
somemore you say you need it for tesco (heavy with stuff) and balik kampung (lagi heavy load).. you will cry with the underpower engine. i would say, not worth the money that you save by getting wira 1.3.

This post has been edited by wailup: May 5 2011, 10:11 AM

keep the wira, mod it later when you have extra cash.. kekekke.. put in turbo.

yah!!!

got sound difference jek..

solid ah.. how bout going over stoney roads?

i have a 4 channel amp for front and rear speaker, a 2 channel amp (bridged) for a 10" woofer.
if you want sound with some boom boom, then 4 channel amp with a good 6" front and rear is enough already.
want more boom boom, rear use 6X9 (oval shape speaker).

12" speaker , if a good ones... you will need a good amp to fully utilise it.. if not, it wont 'vibrate' enuf to give you the boom boom.

cracking sound, is most likely the speaker cone already cracked. get a new one for it. i would suggest 6" component speaker on front and mid bass 6" at rear. and a good 4channel amp.
rm500-rm700?? erm.. depends on how much stuff you're going to upgrade.

amp = rm400 & above should be ok. brand... anything.
component = rm300
midbass = rm300
pre-amp = rm200 (7channel)

yours is very abnormal. maybe you leave your car idling around too much?
mine latest FC record, 500km use 38litre ron95. 4g93t
kekekek

This post has been edited by wailup: May 22 2011, 03:38 PM

suggestion. change to 1.6 engine and above for wira.

hahah.. i would do the same also.
last time when i request a SC to adjust my autogearbox gearshift sensitivity (want it to shift at higher rpm), and he starts telling me to i need to flush radiator, change engine oil, and also ATF too, or else, the adjustment wont work.
WTF right?

i dun think so, mine shift up at very low rpm.. hence, the car totally no power at all. for my wira, as long as i dun shift the gear at 5k above, the fc doesnt effect much. so, before i had the adjustment, i normally drive my car by shifting from L, 2 and D.

optimum setting? i dunno ler.. i drive depend on feeling. i dun like sluggish feeling (when it shift up, but the car lose acceleration) when i use manual shifting, i will rev until redline 7k, then only shift up to 2 or D.

for my 4g93t manual now, i normally shift up on 2.5k till 3k rpm (depends on the load im bringing). 1.8 has very good low end torque. when driving thru bump (with braking slowing down), i can still engaged with 3rd gear, and drive on without having the engine chocking (which the rpm too low) and clutch fully engaged (some ppl tends to press some clutches to avoid engine chocking).

This post has been edited by wailup: May 29 2011, 12:19 PM