You got a bad skimming.... Anyway, most of the time(done twice), I'll end up change the rotor....No doubt after skimming the rotor looks like new, but the properties are not there.... It may last you for another few months where it worn your brake pads faster....
Suggest change to new rotor and make sure to change your brake pads regularly. This can prolong your rotor's lifespan....
This is my third set which lasted me for 5 years already....

mine change every 15k km, as 1.6 gb very sensitive...

u need to take into account the oil presure bro..

I changed my ATF every 15k km or so. Currently, my driveshaft driver side has been damaged. Drivable, but when cornering to the left at curves, it gives woong sound. Other than that, still ok. Steering dashboard not yet shaking. Also, sometimes in the morning, I find that the car didn't move after shifting to D, 2, L and even pressing the gas pedal, RPM goes high but the car doesn't move. It's like shifting to N and press the gas. R still ok. I understand that driveshaft also needs ATF, yea ? Just afraid if the oil might run out due to leaking and causes the gear to near malfunction, thus gearbox problem.

change 2 time flush once lo, haha, so far i used Mitsubishi ATF oil only, man, u will feel the difference 

dude, u sure u wan sport absorber? consider mine la? haha.. rm400 for u, ON?
depends la, some said 15k, some said 30k, so, its up to u...
i guess ur gb kong d? sad to knw tat, but u should start n save some cash for a new gb..

Wow, the wiring.... Looking for trouble or what?
Should arrange them properly....

thx for the inform..
but flushing nit 2 bottles of 4 liters atf oil, my mechanic said its ok to change n not flush, so i got no idea- -"
anyway, from now onward, i think i'll only flush my gb oil rather than change only.. haha.. is it everytime v flush, we also nit to open the oil sump?

Auto

To change and flush your auto oil perfectly you should go to your mechanic and have the auto flushed with a flushing machine, then have the pan dropped and change the filter and oil topped up again.

However, if this to too costly, I can show you a much cheaper way that will be for better than just not changing or changing oil without flushing.

With the auto warm, remove the bottom hose in to the radiator and fit a plastic tube on to the bottom hose to the radiator, put the other end or the hose in to a 20 Litre bucket in front of the car.

Start the engine and the auto’s oil pump will pump all the old ATF fluid in to the 20 Litre bucket, flick through the gears until the vehicle doesn’t try and move, now you have most of the oil from the auto in the 20 Litre bucket.

Only idle the car to do this.

Refill your auto with new oil and repeat the process about 3 times or until the oil comes out of the auto clean, or the same colour as it’s going in.

You just flushed your auto without jacking the car up.



Diff

With the Diff at operating temperature, jack your vehicle up and put on axle stands making sure the vehicle is stable. Then drain your Diff oil, when the oil stops running out of the Diff, refit you sump bung.

Refill the Diff with Flushing Oil. Run you vehicle in say 2nd to 3rd gear at about 1500 rpm and flush your Diff for 15 minutes.

Drain the flushing oil, once drained refit the plug.

Fill your Diff with Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 E P Gear Oil if you wish to and extend the life if your Diff or fill with an approved spec. Synthetic LSD E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140.

Fill to slightly above the bottom of the filler bung, this way when you wish to take an oil sample you can simply ease the filler bung (within 5 minutes of running) and allow the excess to flow into your sample jar and quickly refit the filler bung.


Power Steering


With the Power Steering at operating temperature, remove the Power Steering reservoir cap and using a large syringe (like the one you filled the in the T56 and diff with) and suck all the oil from the Power Steering reservoir.

Refill the reservoir with Transmax Z ATF fluid and turn the steering from lock to lock once, then suck the oil from the reservoir again.

Repeat this process until the oil you are removing from the reservoir is the same colour as the oil going in, then fill to the correct level.

Auto and Power Steering fluid should be changed as soon as it starts to noticeably darken.


Now you are doing the best you can when changing oils.

@nicks

Pimples? what's that? Haha..Sorry I am noob at car. I mean people bang on me here and there.So I guess need repaint and do some erm...repair on the door. Anyway, my car also over heat, gear hard to shift(auto). So, got any shop can recommend to settle all at once...^^

just go and buy a replacement drop-in filter with higher air-flow qualities.
currently i'm using some cap ayam wire-mesh drop-in air filter.
engine roar loudy if revved. so far, i checked at the throttle body, still OK, not very dirty.
i guess use n see how

anyone here using high profile camshaft here? Mind to share your experience or "butt dyno" here? I heard with high cam will certainly cause rougher idling. But how about the FC and overall response?

Using high cam is actually changing the powerband..
Recommended to change to performance valve spring.