Got peak time on Midvalley? I hate going there as always cannot get parking.... I'll prefer take train to go there.....
LYN Proton Wira Club (LYN-PWC) V-XXVI, Come in & let's discuss about Wira
LYN Proton Wira Club (LYN-PWC) V-XXVI, Come in & let's discuss about Wira
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Jun 15 2011, 01:39 PM
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#121
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888 posts Joined: May 2006 |
Got peak time on Midvalley? I hate going there as always cannot get parking.... I'll prefer take train to go there.....
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Jun 18 2011, 12:51 PM
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#122
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888 posts Joined: May 2006 |
If that is a military grade GPS, then yes, it will be accurate....
But is just a few hundred ringgit stuffs, it won't that accurate also.... If the Wira's original rim is 13" and using 175/60/13 and changed to other sizes, it will affect the readings on the speedometer... |
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Jun 18 2011, 05:45 PM
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#123
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888 posts Joined: May 2006 |
Speedo meter cost only rm145(now should be increased already) + rm15 workmanship..... I doubt people will repair the speedo meter as usually is the gear got problem....
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Jun 19 2011, 12:10 AM
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#124
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888 posts Joined: May 2006 |
If your distance are constant, Google map are quite good to give you a reference on mileage done.....
Another way is the speed trap....... |
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Jun 19 2011, 05:51 PM
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#125
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A top overhaul needed or use mineral oil....
Cost for top overhaul may cost rm500-1000 depending on any other potential problem... If just top overhaul, may only rm500-600..... |
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Jun 19 2011, 07:56 PM
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#126
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888 posts Joined: May 2006 |
Adding adatives are good normally, if you just want to sweep your dust under the carpet...
Some addatives are just to increase the viscocity of the engine oil.... Is it really good? You be the judge.... |
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Jul 2 2011, 01:59 PM
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#127
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Emmm.... considering Proton got too much of ahem quality parts, changing every 2 years are ok.... Why want to take the risk?
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Jul 3 2011, 02:11 PM
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#128
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Power window and cenral locking system, you can do at wireman shop... Should be <rm150...
Changing door trim? If still in good condition, just leave it.... Asked before the front door trim cost rm450(if I get you right)... Speedo meter you can get at spare part shop for rm150 + rm15-30 installation fees.... As for budget ICE system, Pioneer 6350 + my component set that I'm selling should be good enough for you... ~rm1200 on that.... And you no need to add amp.... |
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Jul 3 2011, 02:37 PM
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#129
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Front only are good enough liao....
Pioneer 6 series are the best bang for buck..... rm500 only... But I'm not selling, I'm selling speakers only.... Again it is rm5++ but sound better than those wasted rm few k for local brands.... Added on July 3, 2011, 2:39 pmBut I'll be installing a friend's car next week, I'll let him tell the story.... This post has been edited by kyheng: Jul 3 2011, 02:39 PM |
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Jul 3 2011, 10:44 PM
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#130
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A pair of tweeter, a pair of midbass and a pair of crossover... That's about the price.... My set can be used to compare with rm few k speaker..... Google Visaton and you can find more info on them....
That midbass can put on the original speaker mounting also, with some mod to cover the gap and hole.... That's my initial location I placed my midbass... Added on July 3, 2011, 10:45 pmOr you can choose the hard way, get those rm1++ component set and end up not enough details especially on the mid and high.... This post has been edited by kyheng: Jul 3 2011, 10:45 PM |
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Jul 4 2011, 12:23 AM
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#131
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All your sensors on the engine, crank pulley sensor(which result to car cannot start), O2 sensor, air filter sensor...
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Jul 4 2011, 01:43 PM
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#132
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Yup, for an old Wira, there's just too much loose screws around....
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Jul 4 2011, 02:31 PM
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#133
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888 posts Joined: May 2006 |
But then "ahem" parts also too much.....
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Jul 4 2011, 09:41 PM
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#134
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QUOTE(samwongjyhhorng @ Jul 4 2011, 03:52 PM) u means me????i will install the tweeter 1st on tis sunday,then will install mid bass speaker on next month.. Yup, that's you, haha.....QUOTE(AhKoo @ Jul 4 2011, 04:24 PM) my car can start, drive n no problem at all, when i on my car, wait the check engine light dim, then i juz start my car, later drive about 5-10 minites, the check engine light is on again~ = =" The best way is, reset your ECU first, that's the fastest and cheapest way.... Remove the ECI fuse and crank start your engine, just to discharge it. I got my problem solved by this.if i off my engine n start the precedure again, no light, but after 5-10 minutes drive, it appeal again~ !@#$%^&*( QUOTE(cute_boboi @ Jul 4 2011, 05:09 PM) I guess the ECU something wrong (faulty). Which model/year is yours ? Suspect is the VDO version.... Stupid design to have a crank pulley sensor....Mine is different yr 2002 1.5GLi manual. On my car, engine light will always on forever. Then crank and engine light went off. If engine light comes on again, means engine die already, sometimes due to too low rpm. Engine die on low rpm can be due to TB, just get it clean and should able to solve your problem. Another thing is, upgrade your engine's grounding wire.... QUOTE(neotoxin @ Jul 4 2011, 05:37 PM) most probable is one of the sensor failed (as @kyheng mentioned earlier). Last time I got this symptom, it was my knock sensor - not broken actually but the wire connection came off Do a reset and still cannot, the best is burn rm50 at Proton SC to check what's the actual problem...QUOTE(GKWong @ Jul 4 2011, 09:27 PM) got a curious question here I never mod this before, but the air to combustion chamber need certain temperature.... |
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Jul 5 2011, 09:32 PM
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#135
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QUOTE(afosz @ Jul 5 2011, 08:22 PM) Meter panel might be spoil. Replace with a new one around RM 200+. The "kirk" sound also don't have?Mine a bigger problem. 'Check Engine' light on and won't go off when the key turns to On, but cannot Start the engine. It won't crank, nothing just empty. Battery, spark plug still new. Fuel full tank. What could be the problem ? |
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Jul 5 2011, 10:08 PM
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#136
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888 posts Joined: May 2006 |
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Jul 5 2011, 10:16 PM
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#137
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Normal fuse only cost rm0.50-1.. But those on the fuses to the ECU cost rm10-20....
If fuses are ok, you have to check the wiring.... |
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Jul 5 2011, 10:29 PM
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#138
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Check the fuse first.... Hope that's the problem... Else you are in deep sh*t...
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Jul 6 2011, 10:55 PM
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#139
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You got a bad skimming.... Anyway, most of the time(done twice), I'll end up change the rotor....No doubt after skimming the rotor looks like new, but the properties are not there.... It may last you for another few months where it worn your brake pads faster....
Suggest change to new rotor and make sure to change your brake pads regularly. This can prolong your rotor's lifespan.... This is my third set which lasted me for 5 years already.... |
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Jul 7 2011, 10:18 AM
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#140
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888 posts Joined: May 2006 |
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