sneek peek

good

for everyone;

here's the trick question, what if, i used 200mm for the landscape shot? ngek ngek ngek


This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 21 2011, 12:12 PM

the aperture thingie i wondering how many actually understand the relationship on focal length, zoom length and aperture/dof

my initial idea to shoot for the alphanatics 'alone' contest submission, sadly this photo requires editing, so i submit another lousier idea anyway, since the contest is closed, share share with u guys

*edit: the photoshop part is how to remove the lightsource... i tried using a small black paper to stick on filter to block/hide the light source but failed (the black paper is in bokeh) the rest of the whole photo lighting is original.

This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 22 2011, 01:18 AM

oh no no, the exposure is right on, its a big umbrella(flash) right in the middle of the frame...LOL i need to remove the umbrella... like i said, i cut a small round black paper to stick on the filter hoping it might hide the umbrella, who knows(actually i knew it, just give it a try) it become bokeh and not only it block the umbrella, but the model too. sadly i cant perfect the shooting method, if i did, this will be a great shot...........

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Added on February 22, 2011, 1:28 ammy submitted shots was, in my head keep thinking bout the title while walking at the flora expo in taiwan (last monday), then i saw something odd, a wrong flower among the rest... under bright day light strobing ^^ everyone was looking at me, using timer and walk to position for the snoot flash... lol wondering what the hell i shoot with flash at daytime.

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Added on February 22, 2011, 2:10 am
1680Z with A##?

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Added on February 22, 2011, 2:12 amran out of idea what to shoot....





This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 22 2011, 02:12 AM

kysham: tq~ next time i go kk TT la

evil: see next pic, u should able to guess what is it...

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Added on February 22, 2011, 12:47 pm

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Added on February 22, 2011, 12:48 pmsince CNY i was unlucky and unable to shoot any fireworks, so i create them myself @.@ ehehehehe

This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 22 2011, 12:48 PM

ahpingko owns a office tower?

guys, i just submitted this photo to the sony alpha convention contest, can support me by clicking like? hehe


those wanna add me in fb, can add, imanayAieR at msn dot com

wow, very nice! i still finding urs lol

i vote codyx already, who else?

most voted get a price, winner is judge by the invited guess speakers i think...

err the 1st 2nd 3rd is not related the most voted, most voted is another small price only... but still, submit moreeee i now spaming it with more picture lol

fell sick and bedridden for a whole day.... and so many post to read haha, skip a few and reply which is important.

newbie: if its your mum buying, the 1680, else, get the 1750. base on some review online, it could be either a little bias or they are comparing to a invisible unknown lens,... how can that even be a proper review? base on azamunekurone take, with all due respect, i find it misleading at some point.

here's my take on 1750 after more then a year using it (upgrade from sal1870). my review is base on actual using it, rather then review base on spec or bias talk. (and a used 16105 for a month (before i plan to buy it))

it is a lot heavier, in fact heavier then 1680 and as heavy as 18250!

the image is not worst in lowlight, optically, its not relevant. and most ppl has misconception, because once handed a F2.8 lens, they will think "wow, F2.8, means i can shoot at really low light condition", hence bring the lens to shoot at lowlight. if u were to bring a 16-105 to the SAME lowlight condition, knowing u will need another 1 stop of shutter speed(or iso boost), i think ur photo wont be any better then the 1750 at lowlight.

F4 give a HELL of sharpness, more then 1680 (sorry CZ fanboy) even more then 1680 at any aperture. not only that, the F4 will able to let u grab a shot maintaining bokeh vs 16105 @F8 to archive the same sharpness. BUT, even at F4, the corner is soft (compare to CZ, CZ wins at it has good sharp corner at all range) not sure if compare to 16105, coz i didnt thought of doing this test when i got the 16105...

noisy AF, no comment, to me, my A300 mirror slap is louder. normally, the mirror slap attract more attention then "noisy" af..... so how noisy can it be? i am not sure if dyxum review actually tested it or they just copy it from other website, but on other website review, they reviewed the canon/nikon unit which is A LOT noisier, so it does not apply to A mount unit.

the 1750 hunt better in the dark then 16105!
reason: during focusing, ur aperture is wide open all time, F2.8 whole range on 1750 vs 16-105 (let put it at F4 since the F3.5 dont last). meaning u have 1 more stop of light goes into the af sensor, which mean u can focus at 1 stop darker. and YES it is. switch back to my 1870 (and 16105) i do feel it has more difficult to AF(test both lens in my room, same lighting). to prove it future, i switch to 50 F1.4, it can focus even BETTER then 1750 at the same lighting.

F2.8 is not that soft, most review site, seriously, i do not know which F2.8 lens they comparing to... they say sigma F2.8 also soft, then how? dont tell me they comparing to another lens at F8?

the bokeh is indeed more then F4 of 16105.

rubber grip loosen over time, what i do, use doubleside tape, tape inside and warp back the rubber grip. dont worry, there is no screw under the rubber grip so they wont have to remove the rubbergrip for opening up the lens. u can even permanent glue it down if u wan. for 16105, it too will loosen up overtime, but u cant glue it down, because there is screw underneath the rubber grip require to unscrew if u ever send it for servicing.

the 16-105 soft at tele end, is not that soft. its softer to the 16-70 range, but not as soft as what u think.

both 1750 and 16105 has bad CA control vs CZ

This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 24 2011, 02:52 AM

lol, i terclick add reply when i type half way, still dizzy from fever...

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Added on February 24, 2011, 4:07 ambuilt in lens stabilizer and built in body stabilizer topic. sigh (to mod, this is a constructive discussion, not a fanboy talk.)

its not who is better, but when applied in real life practice, which really improves your shooting?

i) stabilized OVF is good to see, bad to hold. why? because when u see its stable while your holding arent, the brain tells that you are stable, hence your hand (human stabilizer) wont try to stable down hence during the shutter release, the stabilizer works hell lots more just to stabilized your shot.

unstabilized OVF (aka sony) is better in 'practice' because when u see so much shake, your mind will tell your hand to stop shaking! hence when shooting, ur SSS just work so much less. its like, u have dual stabilizer when using SSS, one is ur brain/hand where u will do your best to stable it before shot, and the rest is SSS. its it more practical? not saying SSS arent as good as IS/VR, they are!

ii) SSS working less is better because it will able to even work at longer shutter. say, 1/8 at 50mm (opps it seem only sony has a stabilized 50mm...

my 50mm 1/8 shot,


1 to 1 pixel crop?


alright, i know it wont be fair to compare a 50mm with others brand that doesnt has it... then i take another lens range that other might have IS/VR for it....

taken in taiwan, when i left my tripod at home, hand held, 1 sec (i know it sounded like BS)
30mm F4 iso400, 1sec handheld, to prove SSS is really GOOD.


1 to 1 pixel crop


even myself is stunned with 1 sec shot, i tot i can snap a 'get away' blur shot, and resizing it to 800pixel and noone can see the diff... surprisingly, it is sharp!

again, i would like to point out, the reason i get such a sharp shot with 1sec, because of my non stabilized OVF, i will look into the ovf, and notice that until i am really stable, only i release the shutter. if on IS/VR, u never know when u are at the most stable point, and the stabilizer may not work till this extend too.

iii) which come to this part, "i can hold my IS/VR lens really stable". oh yea, btw, IS/VR lens are about 10% heavier compare to non IS/VR... so, heavier lens, means you will eventually shake 10% more. also, not all lens has IS/VR. even IS has less lens option compare to VR.

iv) this i need some friends to clarify (albnok?) i was told(or i read it somewhere, forgotten) the new version of nikon VRII lens design is that, the VR is moved Closer to the sensor inside the lens. the reason being, closer to the sensor, it works better. base on the angle of shake, the future away the IS/VR from your sensor. the more it has to work to compensate the shake, the closer, the less it has to work. not sure if the IS II followed the same concept. what SSS did, they jump straight to the point, having it on the sensor (zero distant), which increase or give the best stabilizing option.

the theory works this way,
let say 70mm, shoot a full body shot, about 15 meter away. you are shaking 10mm in OVF (cant see in IS/VR) on lens, (lets say using 70200, and the stabilizer built about 150mm from the sensor) has to move 2-3mm to stabilized the shot, while, the SSS, only need to move less then 1mm to stablized it. if apply to a slow shutter of 1/10 (which most IS/VR marketing claim can shoot up to 4 stops) imagine the 2-3mm movement, will it REALLY cope?

ohyea, before i started being branded as sony fanboy, i uses multi system, even before i start using sony, i used canon system (400D), and during college, my roomie uses nikon system (D70). i used to own a D90 before i sold it off not long ago. still have some nikon lens in my drybox, not selling it thou, they are FX gems. not forgetting my retired fujifilm, casio, kodak, and TLR.

This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 24 2011, 04:18 AM

sigh, eh, u guys, stop messy with empty-ball head... lol he will be more confuse not knowing where went wrong

empty-ball: my advise, first, empty your head, its hard to teach a cup full of water, forget what u read online.

now, turn ur camera mode to P mode. set ur iso to auto. for the first 5000 picture, shoot with only P mode. everytime u shoot, when u review the picture, look at the aperture (F#.#) and shutter speed (1/###) and iso used for that picture, understand why did it used F5.6 rather then F22, see why does the shutter speed is only 1/60 then 1/4000. why is the iso at iso800 or 1600 rather then 100 all the time. study ur environment too. after u get the general idea which setting goes for what kind of environment, u will slowly learn the A and S mode, and only lastly goes to M. do not jump to M mode directly, it will lead u nowhere.

empty ball, let me tell u of a story of my friend who brought a expensive camera not long ago...

he told me, he wanted to use M, because he silly dog cat friend told him that use M is = PRO, since his got pro camera, must shoot like PRO. alright... but his to get 1 photo right, he needs 5 min to set, or never able to catch a shot at all.
so he come to me... and ask why is so hard to shoot with a pro camera, arent PRO camera is design to be easy? i asked him back, why did he shoot in M mode? he told me the reason (above) that use M = more PRO. auto for kids.
next i told him, ur office, the computer, all throw away la all the computer, all the calculator... use ledger book and Abacus... all those FULL MANUAL, then u will LOOK damn PRRROOO in ur office lor. he laughed a while and ask me back why not?

let's see... there is Auto and Manual Transmission car, you usually buy which one? he smile back, AUTO Better. i know manual give u more PRO racing feel, but auto EASE your life.

you paid a lot of money for the camera.... you are suppose to let the camera Work For You..... not the other way around, not u susah susah work for it... right? so why not just use AUTO (or P mode) for a while until u get used to it?

end of story. have fun with your camera

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Added on February 24, 2011, 11:58 pmguysssss, sony contest (http://apps.facebook.com/sonyalpha-contest/facebookapps/gallery.php?search=ed%20paul&page=1&t=t&s=0) use this link, or search for Ed Paul, like the picture u like plssss....

This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 24 2011, 11:58 PM

puppydog: niceeee


okay guys, this week pic spam title is odd one out!!! come spammm

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Added on February 25, 2011, 12:54 am

This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 25 2011, 12:54 AM

the convention is OPEN TO PUBLIC< there is a area where they show new product and this year lineup, i was told to expect the transparent A77 there. and lots of lens, and few SLT around for u guys to test.

the workshop will be in other rooms, that require registrations to go in.

lol, means is share power,... lousy la, maha better, each independent single. never share. constant. 90 minute means 90minute.

iso100 to iso200 to iso 400 to iso800
F2.8 to F4 to F5.6 to F8 to F11
1/8 to 1/15 to 1/30 to 1/60 to 1/125 to1/250

all above is 1 stop.