Hi. I am in the mist to change from a 16inch rim to a 18inch rim for a Mitsubishi Triton 2.5. I heard from a rim dealer telling me that:

1. Once I changed to 18inch (tyre 285/60/18), my 4wd triton will not feel as powerful as when it is with the original 16inch (tyre 245/70/16) is this true!

2. 285/60/18 tyre will make tyre pop out, making the car look slightly ugly (not align with the body frame)

Pls share your opinion as I am undecided on the choices. I like ganas rim, but not if it's at the expense of sacrificing power..

The car is still powerful. It's just that it needed to more power to roll that bigass wheels. Unless if you get those lightweight rims.

Yup, bigger rim needs more power to spin it.

1. Yes, True, Bigger rim will reduce your acceleration and also ur accelerometer will not be that accurate by around 10-20%. but no worries, power still there. max speed still same. the term "not feel as powerful" shud not be used in this case. edit: rarely i see ppl floord their gas on the road to achieve max acceleration. for me acceleration does not come in concept of driving here. come to traffic lite have to stop also.

2. Depends on user. original width of ur tyre is 245 (stil inside body line). your wider tyre 285 will popout abit thus, when drive tru mud - expect mud on ur windows. advantage is ur cornering will be much more stable and rigid.

Conclusion: your car power will not be affected. only your acceleration. tq.

This post has been edited by xplodingplastix: Jan 25 2011, 05:06 PM

rim can lightweight but the bigger rubber is much heavier than 16"

don't think the stock tyres is any lighter than the new set that he's gonna change. unless if he goes for AT ot MT tyres.

Bigger rim means bigger rolling resistance. It needs more power to start moving.
Only your acceleration will be decreased a bit

Whoa,Triton got accelerometer??

Fren,

sure got ar....he is refering to speed meter in lay man term ler.....

Fuuu bro... Running 285? That's hell damn wide... Mine 265 front and back only.

Bigger rims / tyres cost slower acceleration and top speed..

Love ganas rim but don't want sacrifice power that much? Get a tuning kit from me

link

if you try the calculator using the measurements that u gave, the diameter difference will be 6.24%

slower pickup but the rest all same + better handling and cornering.

245/70/16 = 265/55/18 same height but wider(better traction).

its called speedometer...

accelerometer is for measuring acceleration.
its odometer.
speedometer is for speed.

Hi. I see. From all the replies i can summarize that:


Pros
1. Ganas beautiful 18' rims
2. Better cornering and stability with 285/60/18 or 265/60/18 low profile tyres

Cons
1. While max power remains the same, the acceleration decreases (by 10~20%?) << Really potong stim!
2. Accelerometer inaccurate by 10~20% (In highway 100kmph would actually roughly be 110kmph)
3. Brake efficiency will be affected slightly.

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Jan 26 2011, 06:37 AM

my uncle using 22"..n lowered sumore..
and my dad change 18" not lowered but nice..

Change to a performance air filter, reflash ur ecu, change ur exhaust manifolds system, should give u extra power =D

Bro, we are talking about diesel la... Performance air filter doesn't give much improvement (or shall i say u can hardly feel the difference). Reflash ECU only when u get into serious mod on diesel engine. Diesel engine are not the same with petrol engine.. No extractor or exhaust manifold
Diesel = EGR > Turbo > Outlet (Waste gas) Go for High Flow / Free Flow filter when your truck is chipped, that only help because the tuning kit will remap the mass air flow to allow more air sucking, fuel mapping to let the commonrail inject more diesel. There's huge difference after chipping your turbodiesel. That's why chipped turbodiesel tends to smoke alot. Smoke alot in diesel = fuel and air is enough.



This post has been edited by victor87: Jan 25 2011, 08:42 PM

one more thing very important....18" tyre price is sky high

Bro Poodle,

The rim too common on trucks laaa... Look for something more stylo... like truck version of TE37.. yummy Always love JDM rims.. hahaha

woot? i stand corrected, i didnt know much about diesel engines but i thought they basically work the same, thanks for the info!

Pros

Wider tyres = more surface area = more traction and grip
Larger rims = lower profile = sportier ride = better cornering response

Cons

Higher rolling resistance = higher fuel consumption
Bigger diameter = Higher moment of inertia = Higher torque needed achieve same acceleration as smaller rims

That's the reason diesel is lack of room to mod. Only can trick the ECU with those sensors...
No spark plug on diesel bro ! hehehe

+1

Bro victor, you are using 18 inch rim with 265/60/18 tyres? How do you feeel about the acceleration when you change from 16 to 18inch, did you felt a great reduce in the acceleration? I dont want to change to 18 and lose the pick up.. Then regret and change back to 16'...

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Jan 26 2011, 04:07 AM

if no power, increase ur boost pressure and remap ur ecu can d laa...

dont feel like doing internal engine modding because: 1. Not much knowledge on car engines 2. Want stay stock for warranty 3. havent finish modding the exterior

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Jan 26 2011, 06:41 AM

[quote=alpha0201,Jan 25 2011, 05:01 PM]
The car is still powerful. It's just that it needed to more power to roll that bigass wheels. Unless if you get those lightweight rims.

[/quote

Agree with our friend saying that using a light rims and quality rims but let me tell it will be not cheap !
Ask around the price before u consider

---

Added on January 26, 2011, 10:09 am[quote=Poodlepaddly,Jan 26 2011, 04:06 AM]
+1
Bro victor, you are using 18 inch rim with 265/60/18 tyres? How do you feeel about the acceleration when you change from 16 to 18inch, did you felt a great reduce in the acceleration? I dont want to change to 18 and lose the pick up.. Then regret and change back to 16'...

[/quote]

I agree with u some more. The rims easy to get damaged too if we accidentally hit the hole of the rd tell u very sensitive the bigger rims that looks very nice n sexy, but when driving on the rd have to avoid those damm hole

---

Added on January 26, 2011, 10:19 am[quote=kampoon,Jan 25 2011, 08:56 PM]
one more thing very important....18" tyre price is sky high

[/quote]

Yar lor big rims is always like that if Japanese or European rims lagi expensive


This post has been edited by sfotsy: Jan 26 2011, 10:19 AM

Power? abit la. not much different. My truck upgrade off set rim from ori to -20. Tyre from 245/70/16 to 275/70/16. Fc little bit more. But cornering more stable. Look fierce coz four tyre is half outside the body.

With bigger rims, u need extra power. Try adding Vector, a common rail interceptor. Will up power from 136hp to 160hp. I'm using it. 4x4 with large rims not worth it. U need to slow down for bad road.

No la bro.. Stock rim only.. Add Vector Tuning Kit la.. Lai pm me for best price wont void ur warranty at all !

Dear all, thank you so much for your informative replies. Many of you stated the pros and cons and also your experience with sport rims and it was helpful to help me make the decision.

Before





After


Summarized pros and cons, credit to all the forumers in this thread:

Pros
1. Ganas beautiful 18' rims
2. Better cornering with 265/60/18 low profile tyres - confirmed
3. Better stability (traction and grip) on the road.

Cons
1. While max power remains the same, the acceleration decreases (by 10~20%?) Bigger diameter = Higher moment of inertia = Higher torque needed achieve same acceleration as smaller rims << Really potong stim!
2. The steering feels heavy/more stiff to turn with 285/60/18 or 265/60/18 tyres because more tyre surface is gripping the road - confirmed during my test drive today
3. Accelerometer inaccurate by slightly but isnt obvious
4. 18 inch rims are 'slightly' more expensive
5. Brake efficiency will be affected slightly
6. Higher rolling resistance = higher fuel consumption

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Feb 11 2011, 02:38 PM

Wish you have a happy brand new rims, and happy for you!!

nice ride bro.. thinking about it for my future wife car (she kinda like it).. but want to change smaller rims with large n bulky tyres..

you want make up your car of course need some sacrifice on your performance.

ie: custom bodykit is cun but heavy so (probably) underpower.

just trade in that roll bar for a canopy and it looks nice already for urban area.

+1

White Triton with cool canopy

Bro,Diesel does have Air Filter,and it will make a huge difference to replace it with a performance filter if compare to a Petrol engine~ because Diesel engine ignite the fuel by compressing the air til it's get real hot "800C and above" with a compression ratio of 21:1 or greater,do air is more important to diesel than a petrol engine,more air equal more hotter the air can be compressed to and more fuel can be burnt,more fuel can be burnt equals more power.....if a Diesel no extractor or manifold how does the engine route the exhaust gas to drive the turbine??? u must be joking.....the correct method is Extractor-Turbo-Wastegate ~

AND Diesel doesn't have to smoke alot after the ECU had been chipped unless the guy who responsible for the reflash doesn't have experience on Diesel,when a Diesel smoke it can be bad to the engine itself coz when it emit black smoke it indicate that the engine had a too rich mixture,it is completely different to the petrol engine,when petrol engine runs rich it cools it down,but when a diesel engine running rich it get heat up so it is dangerous to diesel.......and i repeat DIESEL SMOKE ALOT IS MEAN THE MIXTURE IS TOO RICH,NO SMOKE MEANS THE MIXTURE JUST RIGHT AND IF THE EXHAUST SOUND SPLASHY MEANS IT GOT LEAN MIXTURE ~

Btw do u drive a Diesel powered vehicle before?

All thing i said in here is not to offense anyone,just to share out the correct thing

And sorry if i does offence anyone ~

Nice ride. Mine is the bluish version with stock rims, front bug guard, aeroklas sportdeck, bodywraps, aeroklas mudguards and some thai-made stabilizer bar at the rear axle. Now, with Vector... truck will spin wheels on 1st gear and hit 180kph easily.

Still have a Taiwanese 16" rims in the office. Will spray matt black before installing it after CNY.

Bro, i am not joking. We all know diesel engine runs with Air Filter. Huge difference bro? Why not u get over my workshop and i show u the difference between K&N filter with my stock filter with my stock MAF sensor?

Huge difference? Like how? faster acceleration like 1-2 sec off the stock? For me, huge difference, NO. Better air flow = Yes, but useless if your MAF still allowing the same air flow setup to be flowed in.

Before fitting an K&N filter, power delivery was smooth and eagerly to rev until redline.

After fitting K&N, power delivery was so poor. 800rpm > 2k = no pull at all, and it consume more time to reach 2k rpm for my turbo to boost, once it reach 2k rpm, the boost came and it will hit the redline like normal did ! I was like you back then, refuse to believe. Tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes (but i left it for a few hours). Clean the stock MAF sensor.. And all what i've did is futile, it's still the same until i remove the K&N and replace back with my stock filter.

Most of the diesel nowadays runs on strict MAF sensors from vary manufacturer like Bosch,Pierburgh,Hitachi and etc.. so putting a high flow or free flow won't work much because it's the MAF sensor controlling the air flow. It's all the same on all commonrail diesel that runs on MAF. But mine run like this, still don't believe? Get over here and test drive mine and i'll prove you so wrong ! I even sent an complain to K&N, guess what they don't even dare to reply my mail at all after a second reply from me !

Try taking off the MAF sensor from any commonrail diesel engine, and see if the engine will rev.

I, myself of course know that diesel engine run on high compression, that is why diesel tends to have better FC than petrol engines, and lower redline compare to petrol engines.

Yes, air is important in diesel engine, but fuel is important too ! But since commonrail engine has enough pressure in injecting fuel to the engine, what those tuner need is trick the commonrail sensor to inject more fuel.

Thus that's why tuning kit / tuning box is introduce to nowadays commonrail engine, what they did is override the ECU reading on the MAF sensors and Commonrail sensor. They trick on them to suck more air and inject more fuel, hence faster acceleration, more torque and more smoke.

Black smoke coming out from diesel = tuner problem? Depends actually, if tuning is done right and no damage on the injector, PCV valves and turbo, IT SHOULD SMOKE more than stock. That's indicating sufficient of air and fuel.

Black smoke on turbodiesel may be symptoms of having clogged PCV valve, faulty MAF sensor, faulty injector and faulty turbo actuator/wastegate. These are the major problem. Also, not replacing the diesel filter for long time will cause black smoke on your diesels too !

All of my tuned turbodiesel smoke and they smoke ALOT if you did an hard acceleration from standstill !

p/s: not everyone will go and tune their stock ecu to run rich / lean... There's no need to ! It's completely different with petrol engine, so stop comparing ! On diesel engine, it's all air and fuel matters !!

Commonrail diesel nowadays run on EGR. Exhaust gas > EGR > Turbo > Engine. (Not happening on your Pajero since you don't run on EGR)

I understand the working concept of wastegate / actuator, hence i don't need to waste my time explaining here.

Diesel cars with extractor? Bro, i'm not joking and i found non of them in my Rover 75 CDTi, ISUZU DMAX 3.0 Ddi ITEQ, Rexton RX290 and my previous Isuzu Rodeo.
It's call exhaust manifold if you're talking about diesel engines, not extractor which u find on petrol engines. Dieselhead mod their manifold probably due to upgrading their turbo !

In case you don't catch my words, here's the pic for your ref:


Extractor on petrol engine:


If i'm not a diesel-head, i wouldn't have 3 commonrail in my car pouch right now.

So far one of my commonrail is up to 75% mod. Air intake mod to allow more air to flow in easily, tuning kit, replace stock Bosch MAF with Pierburgh, replace uprated PCV valve, decatted exhaust, EGR removed and installed a Bypass, uprated o-rings for the intercooler, aftermarket Jetex high flow air filter (order along with new MAF sensor and tuning kit). I did it all myself. It's a commonrail anyway


I'm not proving i'm a pro or anything, as i'm still learning from all the sifus oversea. Talking about modern commonrail diesel?
I noticed u owned a old mechanical fuel pump Pajero, which is not commonrail. If that's the case, you might be right in certain point, because i'm speaking of commonrail engine here.. Commonrail vs not commonrail, now that's huge difference as they are completely different technology.. Like those diesel forklift we did, difference is they don't have turbo.

This post has been edited by victor87: Jan 28 2011, 02:08 AM

nice info from victor87, used to drove isuzu trooper 3.1D turbo intercooler..

Ya he diesel lover... but polluting our air lor

how about smaller rim bigger rubber? like offroad look.

whats are the advantages u get from 1" in rim upgrade?

victor87

btw what MAF you getting soon ??
when you decatted the exhaust will it be noisy? or still quiet flow as stock??



This post has been edited by ELM0: Jan 29 2011, 12:04 PM

I budak baru belajar la.. Hehe.. Always love turbodiesel !!

Lama x jumpe lio.. How's with ur 350z rim d? Going down to 18inch liao?

My Rover is fitted with Pierburgh MAF, controlled by Synergy 2 tuning kit.
After decat the noise is hardly noticeable la.. For me like same oni..

Banyak terror punya info victor

So far I just drive to kota bharu with the new 18' rim and 265/60/18 tyres. Journey feels a bit more stiff compare to usual. And some slight pick up lost (10% maybe?) not really a big difference, something I can live with but one 4x4 hardcore uncle in Kuantan said I should invest in my absorber. To make my triton more stable. Should I consider adding adjust stable into my triton? (saw kaki motor in kl offering rm988 for an adjust stable, need to survey more.. Racun more )

About the vector tuning kit to overcome the acceleration lost, not sure if want to install or not XD worried might consume more fuel for the extra power and shorten my engine's lifespan? Since the engine is the same, to have more power, it has to perform above optimum and consume more fuels?

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Feb 1 2011, 08:59 AM

Stock Triton have the tendency to be tail happy and yes u should invest a full set of shocks and a rear stabilizer at the axle to counter this problem. Bigger rims can always do later.

I'm on standard shocks and rear stabilizer with 300kg of tools at the rear trunk bed all the time. So far, quite stabile unless u hit a puddle at 80kph.

but as at Europe, diesel is a cleaner engine compare petrol engine u know..

Wont shorter engine lifespan la.. Tuning kit is build to increase power while giving best FC compare to stock. (but not the highest setting la, the lowest setting gives alot better FC while giving u more power than stock) But u can't resists la once u fitted a tuning kit, sure tekan habis most of the time... Now i'm on highest setting, cant hold the urge to floor it !!! hahahahaha

I'm doing exactly the same... weld a big steel right behind the rear guard there giving more traction to the rear wheels... else it will be wheel spun everywhere

Green engine it is.... As what it wrote on our registration card. Nowadays diesel engine = alot cleaner, unless those old junk tech diesel.

dont use tayar nipis la for 4wd.siyesly ugly.i know its not like u go off road or what but use 4wd rim more stylo la

Rofl.victor you own a workshop? Or you get your tuning from accessories shop? =D

Guys, need some information to get my mind clear..

I'm driving a Wira 1.5 A/T..using standard 13" JRD rims..
But I wanted to change to light weight 15" rims which at 4.9kg..so the 15" rims will heavier than my 13" JRD rims?how about with tyres? I don't want to lost my pick up power..but need more handling..

Please guide me and correct me if there is any wrong mind set..

your car power is still the same no matter what rim you use.
but slower acceleration la if bigger sport rim.

---

Added on February 3, 2011, 1:11 pmnice

This post has been edited by phas3r: Feb 3 2011, 01:11 PM

I mean I want to remain the same acceleration but I need bigger size of rims..

Only option is to opt for larger turbo and full engine management like they did in Thailand where 50% of the Tritons sold are 3.2L. Even then also, they mod to the max with some getting 600hp.

A friend of mine distribute tuning kit

I have a workshop, i install myself, i enjoy doing myself..

Actually what the tuning kit do?

Increase power and torque. Smoother acceleration, helps getting better FC.

Basic tuning kit interfere with common-rail sensor, MAF sensor, 5 fixed setting to let you choose according to your need (there's a switch on the box there)

Higher end tuning kit interfere with common-rail sensor, MAF sensor, eliminate boost cut, can custom tune it.

How does it look like? install at which part?

Sorry for asking noob question, but I really dont know it

Yesterday, I finally threw away the cat box and did a 2.5" straight pipe from turbo... and wow, truck feels lighter and accelerate easily now. Will be burning tires later to office. The cost? RM 350, 5 hours at the workshop and 2 teh tarik.

---

Added on February 9, 2011, 6:08 pmFulamak... after decat, truck can accelerate up to 190kph easily and engine feels lighter. Need to find better brake pads now.

This post has been edited by acbc: Feb 9 2011, 06:08 PM

Depends on what tuning kit, got alot of type. From low-end to high end models. Tuning Kit = Piggyback

The most common and value-for-power tuning kit plug into the common-rail injector sensor, so the tuning box can took control on the common-rail system. (basic tuning kit)

Some mid end kit needs to plug into the common-rail injector, MAF sensor... To control the common-rail and air flow. (Mid end tuning kit)

High end did everyting above, with boost cut, involves alot of sensor like TPS, MAP to calculate more accurate common-rail spraying.. Best is they can be tune by laptop. (High end piggyback)

Depends on what you need eventually. If you're looking for extra 15~30% of power from stock, a common-rail tuning kit will do the job, just fine !

If you're looking for heavy mods, plenty of cash to throw in for bigger turbochargers, bigger intercooler, exhaust & intake system, go for those high end piggyback, easily double the horsepower from stock*)

*Depends on what model.

I just fitted one unit of Vector Tuning Kit last night for one of the client.
Feedback i got from him after testing the 2.5 Hilux with him is :
"Gear 1 and Gear 2 like rocket, doesn't feel like my car anymore"
"Throttle was alot smoother and feels so much lighter to rev, it now revs more like a petrol engine."
"Gear 4 on 60kph and the torque is still pushing, totally different driving style"

Ahhhh, he's one of the forummer here too. He was recommend the Vector Tuning Kit by his friend, and he came to me on this forum..

PM him and ask for his feedback, his nickname is ELM0

On what truck bro??? Triton ?? It is always the cat restricting all the true power of a turbo-diesel....

Where did you do the decatting? Workmanship ok bro?

This post has been edited by victor87: Feb 10 2011, 12:46 PM

Triton 2.5 A/T. Got it done at the exhaust workshop nearby my office in Subang Bestari. RM 350 to replace down pipe behind turbo till cat box. I also opt for additional RM 150 to replace the pipe after the cat with full stainless steel. Workmanship is superb.

The clogged cat box.


The heat shields, will be using some back.


Stock down pipe and cat box removed.


Prepping the stainless steel pipes.


Almost done, just need to weld the down pipe. Stock pipe after cat is 2" only. I replaced with 2.5" from turbo to all the way back. Good enough for A/T.


This is a complete replacement, over 3' in length. Minimize the joins. Cost is around RM 500.


TIG welding in progress.


Next project is full stainless steel I/C pipes.

Hi. I am in the mist to change from a 16inch rim to a 18inch rim for a Mitsubishi Triton 2.5. I heard from a rim dealer telling me that:

1. Once I changed to 18inch (tyre 285/60/18), my 4wd triton will not feel as powerful as when it is with the original 16inch (tyre 245/70/16) is this true!

A: Partially true. Because the width of the tire contact patch has increased and u have rolling resistance. But if u have lighter wheel and tire combo, the difference would be very little. The only drawback of light wheels is cost.

2. 285/60/18 tyre will make tyre pop out, making the car look slightly ugly (not align with the body frame)

B: Not true. Of course u have to buy wheels with correct offset. The extended wheels over body would only happen if u buy negative offset wheels. If u buy positive offset wheels, that would not happen. But in the end, if u could buy wheels with same offset with original wheels, then u would have have brake or body clearance issues.

Pls share your opinion as I am undecided on the choices. I like ganas rim, but not if it's at the expense of sacrificing power..

Here are the pics below the truck and inside the engine bay... I prefer my mods to be stealthy.



This post has been edited by acbc: Feb 10 2011, 01:24 PM

Better u trade in stock 16" rims for something more ganas but 16" also. Saw some around RM 1.5k but much lighter than stock. I borrowed my bro's Titan Racing negative offset rims with Falken S/TZ 265/16/70 tires. Truck look more fierce but I hate the rim design. Will spray it later.



This post has been edited by acbc: Feb 10 2011, 01:22 PM

erm bro any idea how much it will cost to do a full set 3" exhaust system??

acbc:
you recycle any parts of your OEM exhaust ?? or all totally new 3" to 2.5" until rear tip??

wonder why H-performance sell the 3" exhaust set so expensive = ="

Yes. I prefer the OEM mount because it is a perfect fit since Day 1. Better to recycle it since I have no use for the original cat and pipes anyway. For auto, best to keep 2.5" from turbo to rear muffler. If manual, u can opt for 3".

In the OEM fitting, it is consisted of 3 parts.

1. Down pipe
2. Cat
3. Extension pipe

Now, for RM 350, it will replace item 1 to 2. For additional RM 150, u will replace item 1 to 3. I went for the latter to reduce multiple joins.

btw where is that shop located ??maybe i go pay a visit inquire for hilux T_T
btw what stainless steel that shop using?? grade 304??

This post has been edited by ELM0: Feb 10 2011, 10:06 PM

It is in Subang Bestari somewhere in U5 Shah Alam. If u are coming from Subang airport, just drive all the way straight till u need a Caltex on your left. In front is a traffic light. After traffic, keep left and u will pass 2 left turns. Turn left at the 2nd turn and the shop is on your right. Shop name is Din Exhauz.

Price is cheap because this not some Sunway workshop but owner is very helpful. He himself experiment on his Frontier.

Poodlepaddly,
whats the total damage like ?

Thanks bro for the info! Did some survey before purchasing the 18 inch rim. So far i do feel the difference. But i guess i can live with it. (thinking of vector kit now )

Yes, my friend recommended 16 inch to 16 inch too. But one tyre dealer told me this and it changed my mind.. "Once a 20 inch rim truck pass by you, you sure cannot tahan one looking at the same 16 inch one." lol... And then one day while i was washing my triton i saw one 20 inch rim Triton. He told me he changed from 16 to 16, then to 18, and now 20.. << mush be a sport rim fan So i decided to take up the 18 inch sport rim as the final decision.

Damage involved? Need to but a new wallet because the old one gotten a big hole inside + a bit higher blood pressure. About RM2500 for the rim, RM680 X 4 for each roadstone tyres. Alignment and balancing FOC. Total cost RM5220 but i further nego lower slightly I traded in my old tyre for 800 but i kept my stock rims....

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Feb 11 2011, 01:46 PM

End of the day... it depends on what u want... my truck is heavily abused because it is a work truck. I sometimes have to drive fast to jump over a pothole or speed bump. The landing is rough but satisfying because u can leave a bunch of Wiralution Ah Bengs behind u (when they try to over take).

I rather take 15" -44 offset if possible. Unfortunately, since budget do not permit, had to live with the borrowed rims for a while.

Agree with u,K&N tend to let the engine suck more air thus made the air moving slower then the stock system so the boost will came later than with the stock system

Pajero does have EGR "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve" but for Diesel most of tuner just blank this off as this will recirculate exhaust gas back to combustion chamber and make it dirty and not so efficient,the function just to lower the C02 and NoX value in the exhaust gas

Extractor or Manifold they are same thing bro.....just different place they call it different name like in America they call accelerator as gas pedal and England called it as Accelerator....allthrough it's the same thing

AND don't forget that Diesel does have NA version too

Yes u are right,i owned a Pajero 2.8 Turbo diesel AND another NEW Toyota Hilux 2.5 ....Bro,i wanna ask u.... Hilux engine is a Commonrail or not ar?

Yes, it's a commonrail engine.
I removed my EGR and install a bypass, better low end power since that.. Cleaning them is useless, after 1 week, they turn blackish and sticky again
Diesel engine used in some vehicle and forklift is NA, overhauling a few now in my workshop...

People called it manifold in diesel, because when u tell them Extractor they will show u this kind of face.

Cheers !

nice wheels bro acbc.
i always liked negative offset wheels on 4x4. looks mean and offroad style.

hmm guys like the ride to look mean and offroad style but when u ask ur gf or girl friends is it nice? they will tell u ...looks ugly T_T

"K&N tend to let the engine suck more air thus made the air moving slower then the stock system so the boost will came later than with the stock system "
( erm then whats the point of changing stock air filter to K&N??)

wonder how much does it take the rock the commonrail to gain G force pulling power

This post has been edited by ELM0: Feb 12 2011, 02:06 PM

Get a 3.0 XD

Not true about that k&n statement made by him. It's all about the sensitivity of the maf sensors. bosch ones can be very sensitive..

real men don't care about girls opinion in cars.
i will mod my triton like a monster truck. still thinking which model to get while saving up some dough. hehe...

well....pretty girl will end up not sitting your monster ride haha
maybe your side the girls dont mind , but my side the girls mind very much
some of them went crazy and scared of riding my previous ride so got to change to hilux haha

Buy a truck... with petrol going up... diesel is the only choice. The G cannot simply increase diesel price this will also increase other essential goods.

Later, when u feel like driving... do what I do... call up few friends and drive from MY to TH or if budget not enough... drive around entire MY. Try the coastal roads.

herm....i tell u if my frens and i do what u did
i think they will be crying during the journey haha
for me no problem truck , my frens all petrol heads so they suffer the most hehe

but i usually nothing to do i will drive down melaka , or from KL to bukit tinggi to genting down back to kl.

but then weekends i prefer to drive a small petrol car like wira , pain in the ass to drive truck around.

Correct. Trucks a bit PIA in city... hard to find parking. For this case, I drive my smart around. Easy to find parking and has super FC. Even from KL to Penang, it only cost me RM 80 for 738km.

anyone know price range for 265 60 18? planning to change from 16 to 18 soon