dun ever try to throw puffer in there

This post has been edited by ciohbu: Jul 20 2011, 10:11 AM

how long u prepare the water ? and what med u used ?

and also how long the tetra in ur tank d ?

This post has been edited by ciohbu: Jul 20 2011, 03:58 PM

alamak.. > <''

did u know tap water got chlorine and other harmful chem ? no wonder they will half die / die

fert is for plant

rainwater in city wont work.. full of pollution..

use tap water + water conditioner which u can get in any lfs, keep it for more than 24 hr b4 u change

pity those cardinal

hmmm.. get some water conditioner or anti chlorine...normal one like nutrafin aqua plus water conditioner...mix it accordingly with ur tap water, let it for at least 24hr b4 u do water change

and more advance one is to check PH, check ammonia... etc etc

google is the best assistance .. boys and girls... dun be lazy

Tap Water

The easiest and most obvious - and usually the cheapest - is to use tap water. Tap water is available to almost anyone keeping an aquarium, and is almost always going to be fine for your fish. However, you do need to be aware that if your tap water is from a municipal water supply, or if you have a holding tank for your water supply, you probably have chlorinated water, and you will need to use a dechlorinator or a chloramine remover to make the water safe for your aquarium, depending on which compound is used in your water system.

Reverse Osmosis or De-Ionized Water

RO or DI water purchased from a pet store is another option. RO and DI are two methods of purifying water. This removes the impurities and any particulate that could be in the water, or neutralizes the pH by eliminating the various ions that could be floating in the water. While this gives you very pure water, this water is potentially dangerous for your aquarium. With all the impurities removed from the water, the water's ability to maintain its chemical properties are compromised. This presents a risk that the water could make sudden and dramatic changes in pH, alkalinity, and hardness when exposed to any kind of chemical - even the aquarium equipment. It is important to know how to balance this water appropriately if you get it to make sure it will stay stable. In addition, RO or DI water will have most, if not all, of the trace elements necessary for your fish and plants to remain healthy removed, further prosing a risk to your fish. It is important to get the correct supplements for your fish or plants, and know how to add them to the water and how to test that you have the correct concentrations. Though RO or DI water can be very useful to advanced aquariists with the experience and knowledge of the water conditions they are trying to duplicate and how to duplicate them and test that the water is still safe, I would not recommend RO or DI water to a beginning fish keeper.

Rain Water

Some people are interested in using rain water for their aquaria. In this case, you need to consider the condition of the air and the condition that leaves the rain water in. Tap water has been filtered through soil and then processed to insure that it is potable. Rainwater can carry pollutants which it has washed out of the air, as well as possible contaminants from tubing, gutters, piping, roofs, and other surfaces it has flowed through or over before getting to your collection point - as well as risks of contamination in the collection apparatus. Rainwater is also almost always lacking in necessary trace elements to keep the fish healthy, as well as those necessary to help the water maintain chemical balance.

http://www.firsttankguide.net/aquarium-water.php

more answer here -> http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chro...r+for+fish+tank

This post has been edited by ciohbu: Jul 20 2011, 11:57 PM

hehe.. no la.. not mad.. just that resources / info are out there.. dun lazy to search

and ppl should do more research first b4 buying any fauna.. their life is life too

i think puffer fish can help..

what other type of fish / shrimp u having ?

hmmm.. i dun hav exp with puffer, but if ur tank got enough food for them, and enough hiding place for others, should be fine

maybe other can share their experience ?

This post has been edited by ciohbu: Jul 21 2011, 01:42 AM

remember the ISTA diffuser i talked about ? still pending price from supplier

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Added on July 21, 2011, 2:09 ampoison poison coming soon ~





This post has been edited by ciohbu: Jul 21 2011, 02:09 AM

currently wat diffuser u using ya ?

if u wanna upgrade u can try this , 3 in 1 diffuser (diffuser + counter + valve) hehe

ooouuu.. u can try the inline reactor but DIY co2 oo, not sure ok or not..

yo bryan... ur old account is bryan217 ?

lol.. no wonder.. can pm me ur phone number for easy contact ?

havent.. hehe.. expected 1st week of August.. will keep u updated

if u read carefully, the bottom part said that "do not mixed with water"

yupe...if u dun wan ADA, can go for Seachem or JBL...

hehe.. those steps just for reference... no need follow 100%

if u havent put in conditioner then can put now, get some cycling product or water from another stable tank to help u cycle the tank

u might wanna use carbon in ur filter for 1st week

hmmm.. personally i dun think u need otto now.. maybe after few months where diatom usually start to appear.. then u only get otto

i see.. i think ur lfs should have... try ask them.. hehe

hmmm.. about carbon.. if u dun hav no need purposely go buy la.. abo later whole pack u simpan there only

carbon is not recommended for planted tank.. specially when u are dosing liquid fert



its only good when u start ur tank or when u dose some chemical med

This post has been edited by ciohbu: Jul 28 2011, 01:13 AM

just wondering how to know ur co2 regulator is single stage or dual stage ?

as some dual gauge regulator is actually single stage.. right ?