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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V2, gold ring or f/2.8 and bigger !

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Andy214
post Dec 7 2010, 11:52 PM

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QUOTE(mrl @ Dec 7 2010, 11:40 PM)
hmmm... been somtime haven't come in here... laugh.gif

everyone went to klims??? uhhhh... hate to miss it, but cant find a right time to go...

since celciuz mention AF assist light, I wonder under what criteria the AF assist light will on... coz I shoot multiple times in the dark where obviously AF assist is needed, sometimes it's on and sometimes it's doesn't...
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I think because the option for AF Assist lamp is on AUTO, you can force it ON or OFF if I'm not mistaken.

In very low light condition, it'll be very hard to focus especially if the AF Assist Lamp is not turned on. Harder if the colour is very similar.

Andy214
post Dec 8 2010, 12:12 AM

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QUOTE(lpyycy @ Dec 8 2010, 12:00 AM)
yes, is lik shooting a ppl face with candle light with dark background...cant open flash but to get the person face...any idea? normally where will i need to focus, the person's face?somehow when too dark, the lens cant really focus the face >.<

haha, the blinking flash shown in all mode, sorry for confusing,  but the yellow colour blinking light shown only on auto (when half press the shutter button), so i think the yellow light is lighten up the environment a bit so that the lens can focus...rite? correct me if i am wrong...
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What's the aperture and ISO you set previously?

Are you able to focus in Shutter Priority mode?

Did the AF assist lamp turned on when you half press the shutter button on other modes?

Are you very close to your subject? What focusing mode AF-A? AF-S? AF-C?



Andy214
post Dec 8 2010, 10:48 AM

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QUOTE(02286 @ Dec 8 2010, 08:58 AM)
when ISO is high, then should lower the aperture or faster shutter speed??
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When ISO is high, you can use bigger f number (smaller aperture - to get more depth of field) and/or faster shutter speed (to compensate for blur).
Your camera should have a Depth of Field preview button, set your f number to smallest number then press and hold the Depth of Field preview button and look at the lens, see the aperture is widely open (more light can enter).
Then try to set the f number to bigger number and try again, you will see the aperture become smaller (less light can enter); It's the same concept as human eye.

Usually try to set lower ISO, but in situation where there is not enough light (low light situation) and you don't want to use flash, you can increase the ISO to use faster shutter speed (for moving objects to avoid blur or avoid shake), or when you need to use bigger f number to get more depth of field.
When you increase the ISO, you'll sacrifice on the quality/details when the noise become more apparent. Know your camera and the acceptable ISO/noise level.

For static object, you can use slower shutter speed, and if you have tripod even better so you don't have to compensate for hand shake.

QUOTE(ahchew120 @ Dec 8 2010, 09:25 AM)
Thank bro...
i not mind manual focus and budget can up to rm850...
just very confuse should i buy 50 or 35...both have good review..
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35mm on DX body will give your focal range of 52.5mm, which is good for most situation.
50mm on DXbody will give your focal range of 75mm, which is quite tight for tight space. Best if you try it out before you buy and decide yourself.

Even if you don't mind manual focus, I still think having auto-focus is important; Think properly as regret later is not so nice feeling. With the 35mm f/1.8G, you can have both auto-focus and manual focus, in auto-focus mode, you can still manual focus without flipping any switch, which is another bonus.
But if you're more into portrait, the 50mm f/1.8D will give better result and the auto-focus on body with motor is faster than the 35mm f/1.8G.
Manual focus can be a pain if you didn't get the focus right and you might need to practice to get better result.

Suggest you to try out both the lens at the shop before deciding. The 35mm f/1.8G, you can get for around RM760++.


Andy214
post Dec 8 2010, 11:49 AM

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QUOTE(lpyycy @ Dec 8 2010, 11:10 AM)
Aperture set 3.5 (highest for my kitlens), iso 3200

Nope, i cant focus at all A,S,P,M. oni can focus on auto

the AF assist lamp (yellow blinking light that i mention earlier biggrin.gif ) do not turn on on A,S,P,M, oni turn on on auto.

nope, i not very close, bout 2m distance, but i zooom a little bit. ( not min. focus distance problem)
i am using AF-S.
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Thanks for the detailed information.
On Auto mode, the Focus mode is also using AF-S? I don't know auto use what mode or can we override, sorry tongue.gif

Probably like what celciuz mention about focusing on the side with single point. Did you focus on the side?

What shutter speed you're at and at what focal length (zoom).
Under low light, if the AF Assist lamp did not fire, then it's hard to get focus although possible (especially since you have candle light), you might see the focus working/trying to focus, you can keep try to half press the shutter to try to get focus. If you're zoom in and shake will prevent the focusing especially with single point focus.
I've tried focusing on very low light (dark room with very little light source (table lamp far away -, baby sleeping), shooting ISO up to 6400 (not using tripod) to get proper exposure but at high expense of detail and noise (not to mention tons of hot red pixels?); it's very hard to focus especially with AF assist lamp turned off and harder to differentiate colours at night, but still possible sometimes.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 8 2010, 11:50 AM
Andy214
post Dec 8 2010, 01:04 PM

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QUOTE(lpyycy @ Dec 8 2010, 12:46 PM)
ok, will try again next time when free..light up my own candle..lolx

i have focus on the centre, AF-S. have double check as it is quite often my thumb unintentionally press the single focus point to other side >.<
anyway, i tink there are some limitation like what u said, when getting too dark, the difference of colour not too much, it will have focus prob. I think when manual is not permitted or trying hard to get focus, by no choice I will carry tripod and shoot in auto. Hope it can focus with the AF assist light.lol...

Currently practising to shoot in low light for my trip...do you think it is worth to invest on 35 f/1.8 for the low light condition?i have try both 35 n 50, 35 focal length suite me more for my usage..but still considering now, wallet painful after getting a kit sweat.gif
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If I'm not wrong, you can turn the AF Assist Lamp to ON (always ON). Have to double-check again, but I know you can turn it OFF (not sure if this applies to every model tough, but should be able to as I believe it's software controlled).

As for your case, if you're focus on the centre, perhaps the camera sense the lighting is adequate? (from the candle) thus it didn't fire the AF Assist lamp? You have to experiment with it.

Getting the prime lens (such as 25mm f/1.8G) definitely worth investing for indoor or low light, I would say a must have; well at least personally for me. I shoot mostly indoors with low light and I need fast shutter and I don't use flash. So, imagine at f/1.8 and shutter > 1/50 minimum, I need ISO around 1600 already to get proper exposure. If using kitlens with aperture f/3.5, gone case.... more if you zoom in where the aperture will be even smaller...

Definitely helpful when in low light, like birthday, house warming party, open-house, bachelor night, etc. But if you need to group photo, you might need to to use smaller aperture to get more depth of field.
Anyway, with the prime lens, you can get nice bokeh, good for portraits and also faster and accurate focus.
Since you already have a zoom lens, it's definitely worth getting a prime lens; You can zoom with your legs tongue.gif
Only problem is to get wider angle shots, which you can depend on your kit lens instead.

If your camera body have built-in motor, then can get the cheap 50mm f/1.8D which cost less than RM400.
Else, go for the 35mm f/1.8G for around RM760++.
Try out both at the shop and see the difference in distance; For indoor, tight space, 35mm is better, altough can still be a little tight since it's real length is 52.5mm on DX body.


Andy214
post Dec 9 2010, 10:36 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Dec 9 2010, 10:09 AM)
The eyes don't look sharp. Or maybe compression killed it.
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The car looks sharp tongue.gif
Andy214
post Dec 9 2010, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Dec 9 2010, 11:00 AM)
The others can find rims and car tim :S. I can only detect those obviously out of focus..

Ah , wanted to find the example but he deleted it LOL.
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Nah, just when I first saw the picture, I notice the car looks sharp, maybe the colour or reflection attracted my attention. tongue.gif

Andy214
post Dec 9 2010, 11:21 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Dec 9 2010, 11:18 AM)
Not his,

I found it.

Where do you think the focus is?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Maybe not his fault, camera Intelligent Focus kicks in tongue.gif
Andy214
post Dec 9 2010, 11:40 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Dec 9 2010, 11:21 AM)
LOL, and he was like die die said focus on the eyes. Beware with huge aperture lens tongue.gif. Very easy to see OOF haha!
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Imagine if the GF is there and question him immediately where he focus??? tongue.gif
Just kiddin'

QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Dec 9 2010, 11:32 AM)
Sifuss I need an advice.
I am owner of D3100 (I bought it because I feel it is the best entry level DSLR for Nikon)
without a deep research on it's AF-S motor.
nowadays I am having difficulty to find good lens for my body.
as lens with focus motor (G lenses) a way more expensive compared to D lenses.
Take 50mm 1.4 G is almost 2x as much as 50mm 1.4 D

moreover it's even harder to find 3rd party lens. take tammy for example
17-50 2.8 w/o VC is only 1.1 - 1.2k however the one with VC is 1.8-2k

well, I don't feel it is worth to pay extra for G/VC thingy.

so I am thinking to upgrade from d3100 to d90 (USED), even my d3100 age is only 1 month old.
do you think it is a wise thing?? because I am dying want to try 50mm (most probably 50mm 1.8D)
however if I am stick with my body I have to go for 50mm 1.4G instead which based on the review it doesn't have significant improvement from 50mm 1.8D
so, sifu any advice? Please.. I am totally confuse
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You can get 35mm f/1.8G which is just around RM760++, not more than RM800.

If you want to upgrade to D90, then you have option to use the cheaper 50mm f/1.8D. But the range is quite tight when space is a concern. Or if you pay a little more you can get the 50mm f/1.4D, below RM1K. I find the focus much faster than the G version, but it has only 7 diaphragm blades compare to the G which has 9 for more rounded bokeh.



Andy214
post Dec 9 2010, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Dec 9 2010, 11:50 AM)
I've take a look at 35 1.8 but it seems not as sharp as 50mm 1.8D or event 50mm 1.4 G, that makes me considering 50mm 1.8D with d90 body.. but still yeahh I am downgrading my sensor performance plus the processor.. =X
do you think it's a good thing to go for 50mm 1.8D instead??
so, do you think upgrade to d90 is necessary in this scenario?? because 50mm 1.8D seems like must-have lens I am thinking to give it a try.
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I think it's best to decide yourself; Go try out the D90 and also understand more on your D3100. Can the D3100 meet your requirements and is it worth to change to D90. Also consider the loss you will suffer, unless maybe you get a very good deal on the D3100?

For 35mm and 50mm, also best if you try out both yourself, see the difference in distance. 50mm on DX body will be equivalent to 75mm, which is a medium telephoto. Try your current kitlens, zoom to 35mm, and zoom to 50mm and see the difference. You'll struggle if you're sitting on tables trying to take picture, but if you're taking portraits, it's great. The 35mm is more flexible for many situations, but if you can bear with the longer focal length of the 50mm, then you can consider it. Again, suggest you try out both lens as only your know best for yourself.

Andy214
post Dec 9 2010, 02:55 PM

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QUOTE(stsh90 @ Dec 9 2010, 02:37 PM)
celz, D700 main, D90 backup now?
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I think he planning to sell D90.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Andy214
post Dec 10 2010, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(fisherman10 @ Dec 10 2010, 01:45 AM)
got a question here

d7000 usually comes with a Nikon brand 8gb card n a bag right?

what class will the card be?
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Not sure got Nikon brand sd card. The bag is standard from Nikon not sure about the sd card.
The shop either give you 4gb or 8gb, either way, it's very cheap and not much difference. They give class4 only as I know.

My advice is to survey as many shop as possible becuase they give different price and even same shop, the price is different the second time you ask. Some shop very steady, straight give you best offer, 3800 for body only. Some will try to charge you extra 3-5 percent for cc, while some no extra charge at all, all gimmick.Some shop even go to the extend of telling you the price you stated is their cost price which is ridiculous, moreover, another branch of theirs can offer it. Be wise when negotiating.

Andy214
post Dec 11 2010, 01:12 PM

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QUOTE(lpyycy @ Dec 11 2010, 01:00 PM)
390 is reasonable price..i got quoted 380 and 780 for 35 f/1.8
hard to get lower than that in KL, anyone?
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35mm f/1.8 you can get as low as RM760++ in Low Yat.
Andy214
post Dec 11 2010, 11:26 PM

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QUOTE(wmhafiz @ Dec 11 2010, 07:02 PM)
Which shop?
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QUOTE(lpyycy @ Dec 11 2010, 08:48 PM)
yes, mind share which shop?
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I think it's the highest or 2nd highest floor, near lift, there is a computer shop which also sells camera.

You can try other shops also as I find those shops sell camera usually change their price when ask by different person. Most shop would offer 35mm f/1.8 for around RM780++, the cheapest I've inquired before is RM760++; See if you manage to get cheaper.

Andy214
post Dec 12 2010, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(stsh90 @ Dec 12 2010, 02:41 AM)
take care dude. smile.gif
Any idea how much is SanDisk Extreme SD 8GB? I called J-One d other day, quoted RM210 >.<
buy 8GB and above can redeem free Lenspen.

I was there with fcuk too. The moron go and hold the model's waist as if she's his bestest BFF in the whole universe sweat.gif
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16GB SDHC Extreme III (Class 6 - 30MB/s) is less than RM180.
16GB SDHC Extreme III (Class 10 - 30MB/s) is less than RM210 (I think).

Don't buy at Camera shop, they usually sell higher price.

Source:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1402252
Andy214
post Dec 13 2010, 08:03 PM

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QUOTE(Everdying @ Dec 13 2010, 07:44 PM)
doesnt matter if u good or not, as long as got the interest.
i know someone with a canon 5d also but hes not that good tongue.gif
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That's wierd. Me too, but he's still learning.
Andy214
post Dec 15 2010, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(fisherman10 @ Dec 15 2010, 03:37 PM)
hi ktcy....may i know where u get the price from? name of the shop?
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Most camera also can get this price, you just need to ask and bargain, some shop very good, straight offer you best price, some will pretend and tell you can't that is their cost price, bla bla bla.
The free gift is standard.

Just try every shop before you buy. My friend went lowyat and ask each floor, the price given for body only range from 3800 to 4200. So, buy from the shop which give you best offer and best service, friendly, etc. Some shop charge extra for cc, some don't, they tell you it's the same. Found a good shop, make sure the camera is new, some they give you those that been mess before by other or the staff themselves. The nice shop will let you test out other camera and lens while you're negotiating or buying process. My firiend tested the D300S on display and several lenses as well.
Andy214
post Dec 16 2010, 03:50 PM

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QUOTE(mmohdnor @ Dec 16 2010, 03:39 PM)
for the time being i just use the auto white balance and shoot them in jpeg instead of raw. not so familiar with NEF/raw. hehe.
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do you have adobe lightroom?
you can adjust the white balance or temperature there, then see the difference.
Andy214
post Dec 21 2010, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(geekster129 @ Dec 21 2010, 02:28 PM)
At f/2.8, It's already a challenge for me to get 2 persons sharp.
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Its not about how many person, DOF is the Depth.

If 2 person standing, 1 is close to you, another far away behind, you will need really small paerture to capture both in focus.
If you have 5 person standing on same row, even big apertures you can get everyone in focus,
But if 5 person standing seprately in different rows, like line up, you'll need small apertures and focus on the middle person to get everyone in focus.
Andy214
post Dec 21 2010, 04:25 PM

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QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Dec 21 2010, 04:03 PM)
I think at f/1.4, even stand on same row oso hard to get all sharp in focus, need not to say longer focal length like 85mm
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Ya, that's why I didn't specifically mention what aperture, it really depends on the depth of field. Even 1 person, depending how he stand, posture, at f1.4, not everything can be in focus as well tongue.gif

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