mmmm everyone talking bout the zoo challege and the computer fair.... if i post my picture sure no sound one.... better post when the flow goes down... anyway, here a sneek peak...

guys dont say upskirt upskirt upskirt, later i get banned for inappropriate photo >.<

i am conducting a 1 flash TT with some friends, then i ask the girl to do action, we always play flash with subject not moving, why not do moving one? so i ask her to leap pass the bush (supposely i wanna find bushes) but i end up with the trees and structure as my frames, although its messy, but it is 1ev under with subject nicely and softly expose with flash.

dont say upskirt la... its the feel of moving and joy i am trying to capture. learn from joachim... mentioning of him, where is he? MIA?

Tq joe, yea. the pic i upload was the first shot i did, then i redo another 20+ shot (to get the feet in), to get better result, but non appear to be as good as this one the other 20 picture were bad jumps and mostly blew her dress up =.= )

longpants: well, there are 2 type of people (or photographer). first time will take a look at composition, then color, emotion, then the big picture. the other one, will, well... inappropriate thoughts. so its depend on each person how they see it. what is the first time that comes out in their head. i hope u arent distracted by that. sorry~

Albnok: thanks.... because i been looking at those really pro strobist (oversea) daylight strobist and keep wondering why does their photo and subject so pop out, how their light pops, and make u wonder how those light ever existed... slowly understand how they do it, this is my first attempt with outdoor-daylight strobist.

here another one, need everyone's comment.


evilhomura89: wow, strong contrast, hard to see

Mikeshashimi: thanks, that the thing, i wan do something that diff then what people do always. upgrading actually, its not the composition that i liked most, its the light vs bg. how the sky is not blown up, the flash is not harsh, just soft on the skin exposing it nicely to the bg

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Added on December 13, 2010, 1:34 amwilliam, the first picture, wow, very very nice

This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 13 2010, 01:34 AM

yea i dunno how to say it... that picture has so many keys of good photography, like frame within frame, silhouette, flow, emotion (bird looking at other flying) and moment... aiseh... which one u submit?

talk to Gouki he own this lens and loves it.

i will say, its one of the best under 1k 70300 in the market! (for sony)

buy buy buy.... now they push all these stock out, coz make way for the 70300 USD

mike: 300mm... beercan lack of that this 70300 can go F4 up to 150mm if recall... so its really good

try to keep a professional mindset. there is a reason for nude/fineart/glamour photography, if lyn keep mindset of dirty thing, then i can never share out my set of nude photography...

This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 13 2010, 03:44 AM

1. shuttle speed does not affect the strength of ur flash, flash travels 10 times faster then ur faster shutter (1/40,000!)
2. dark aperture, it was shot at F8
3. low iso, was shot with iso100
4. distance, as long as u are far that ur GN12 popup flash cant reach(formula applied), u are good to go. was shot at 50mm(if i recall) and the frame was 3 times biggier, i cropped the photo actually. there is even more left on the left side initially.


shootkk: hehe thanks,

well, here my part of story. reflector wont work or will take 10 trials to get it to work, because my main light is from the flash, so i have to get the angle that it can bounce from the flash source. it was under semi shaded area, and the sun was cut down by the camera setting, so even i use the sun source for the reflector, it will still be too under(sunreflector) vs the flash shadow

leaves, well, i did my best to save the shot, because the original shot was 2 times bigger then this, this is the crop version, i somehow dislike the leave on the left, i cropped away, now right side too much later i post the ori version to let ppl vote

Wonka: best bokeh showoff pic i ever seen, i mean, so many ppl always post up bokeh photo with no compo(random bokeh showoff) but urs got nice feel to it! well done!!

zstan: i'd avoid HSS if possible, even 160 to 200hss, the flash power was cutdown A LOT. talking bout hss, yesterday i really felt the limit of 1/160 sync... i wan more... i need 1/250 >.<

hi, do u mind posting up the picture u took, and circle/highlight the area of the problem on the picture? thanks

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Added on December 13, 2010, 12:51 pm
Albnok: @.@ i dunno, my mind cacat, happens all the time, i wanted to type one word, but the mind type out other spelling of similar word. like when i thinking to type albnok, sometimes the mind will type out albert @.@

i know how HSS affect it, i mean, once u on HSS< first curtain frame will still get the shadow from pop up, just the rear curtain part is clean... so, the pop up will not be fully solve from hss. right? *edit: correct me if i m wrong, i somehow think it dont wrong that way? coz porkchop were asking how to solve the pop up WL issue.

zstan: pump iso increase not only the flash, but the BG too. i wanted to control the BG remember? so i have to rely on flash to brighter then the BG

This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 13 2010, 01:01 PM

shootkk: full manual, i wan consistent result, not TTL result. opps, i just got what u mean... i wan use M because i wanted to control both aperture and shutter, the auto metering works in PAS, wont auto adjust M. and i think (go back check later) in A mode, the shutter will blink at 1/160, it wont go in HSS rite? (WL mode)

*edit: wait, i still confuse, when u said use flash up my exposure, mean in TTL or manual?

using metering for A/S will give inconsistent BG exposure... if u point downward more(darker) it will give slower shutter (or brighter aperture) if u point more sky in the frame, it will think its too bright, increasing shutter (or smaller aperture) causing even darker ground... so, use full M for more consistent result

This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 13 2010, 01:09 PM

evilhomura89: the issue is 210mm vs 300... the aperture is not the issue, because if u talk about light, today new body can go 3200 with pretty good noise control. if u say bokeh, i believe 300 F5.6 has creamier bokeh then 210 F4. but then, minolta color still the BEST.

shootkk: u asking a guy who know how to use M to use A for metering. why not i just use M and dail the metering to 0ev? isnt it the same? -.- kekeke sumore i dont trust the 40segment metering, too little zone to be give statically accurate average, i will shot 1, judge from the histrogram~, much more accurate to know where my color is blown out or too little. =.= btw, i need to dail my BG ev to -1 to get that shot (but the reading was -2) and the huge softbox hit the light everywhere so i still gain light for the closer bg area.

the other thing is, i wanted to avoid HSS, because 1/1power hss is weaker then 1/2 non hss! (that is what i notice during my shot yesterday) so i rather have the non hss 1/2 (and 1/1 if i need more power)

zstan: i am at 1/160 already, hahahaha~ if increase mean activate hss(1/200, but if u pump to iso200 mean u need to dail 1 stop, that is 1/320!), and even i max out the flash power to 1/1, the result is underexpose vs previous setting of 1/2 with no hss... so its a hard decision what setting to use, so need to gain those experience more.

the 1/2 hss power is not 1/2 non hss, this is what i notice. albnok might disagree? but i duno why its so much darker like -2ev result.

maybe 1/4hss might be same with 1/4 nonhss. i dont know coz i didnt manage to test 1/4 because i am already lack of light.

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Added on December 13, 2010, 2:44 pmporkchop if u found one, tell me, i wan get 1024

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Added on December 13, 2010, 2:52 pmoh i know why underexpose.

1/2hss is same as 1/2 nonhss IF only its DIRECT, the light fallout is further.

because i use softbox, the light fall out is shorter, so during hss, supposely can reach 2 meter distance(direct) were cut down to 0.3 meter distance.

This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 13 2010, 02:53 PM

albnok answered this earlier, the flash fired upon dust in the air reflect back.

shoot fire through transparent/white reflector?

*edit: shoot through hahahaha say wrong paiseh...

wow a big beauty dish u have there @.@ talking bout strobe, i was talking to albert yesterday bout portable strobe.

what strobe are u using? alien bee? planning to find something like alienbee or smaller

eh nice ler... what the plug in name? can send me link?

ND is to cut down exposure, dramatic effect is more of, how u control where and the light and darkness are... causing dramatic effect~ (building uo contrasty effect picture where normally the contrast dont exist)

zstan; pm u

ahpingko: yea it was out in DCM he told everyone few page back

errr, ND will cut down overall light... but the purpose is, instead of going F8 on lens, u maintain at F2.8 (for the DOF) and use ND8 to cut down 3stop of light (F8 light).... so u shoot with F2.8 DOF, with F8 light