Mikeshashimi:

You could shoot #2 so the Park Royal is floating.

#3 could be brighter at the bottom. #4 not all that interesting. #5 is too wide, you don't know what to look at. #6 has a lot of shadow and highlight but you need to frame it such. Look for the geometry in the shot.

#7 If you had picked a better background it could look like the spoon and fork were having an argument.

#9 white balance too warm; doesn't bring out the colors of the presents.

On to the zoo series - crop off the sides in #1. #4 could better demonstrate the difference in scale. #6 would do better without the effect.

Pavilion - #3 neither wide or focused enough on any subject. #4 not framed right. #5 also a bit too much to the left.

ahpingko: Nice portrait!

lwliam: Love the shot with the legs and its reflections!

zstan: Looks like you need it to get fixed. That is pretty contrasty enough!

Hmmm okay lah she has big lips. No need smile also can.

I like how the color in #5 turned out. Not a fan of the almost-crops of #6 and #7.

shootkk: I like how well-controlled the light is on #1! I am liking your contrasty look.

From left to right:

Sony SLT-A55 - first digital translucent mirror camera.
Sony DSLR-A300 - first Sony Alpha with Quick AF Live View.
Sony DSLR-A580 - possibly the last 'traditional' Sony Alpha dSLR, if A33/A55 sales go way past the A560/A580. Sales determines what Sony will put in their next model.
Sony DSLR-A700 - first advanced amateur Sony Alpha, and the only one with a grip sensor.
Sony DSLR-A900 - first full-frame Sony Alpha.

Meanwhile, the lenses:
Minolta 20mm F2.8 Original, Sony Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm F2.0 SSM ZA, Minolta 28mm F2.8 Original, Sony 50mm F1.4, Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA.

Missing is an 85mm F1.4 prime and a 90mm F2.8 Macro, as well as the Sony 35mm F1.8 DT SAM, in terms of common primes.

evilhomura89: The Sony 50mm F1.8 DT SAM focuses much closer. The vignetting happens because the wide-angle converter is only meant to make a not-so-wide 35mm (on point-and-shoots) become 28mm or so.

laszlo: LOL well spotted on the trolley wheels!

e-jump: I like the exposure, though I feel it could do with more exposures. Congratulations on the F20! Argh cat misfocus.

fansoption: Bear in mind that you cannot use the F20 to trigger off-camera Sony flashes. If you were that close, you could ask!

ahtiven: The Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA is different from the Zeiss 85mm F1.4 ZF (for Nikon).

Love your extreme closeups!

kopitiam: Loved my former Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm F2.4 DDR in M42 mount!

mastering89: Nice job on vanishing people!

shootkk: Wah nice and close and personal with #3!

Mr.Wang: Big welcome to you sir! Very good lineup choice too, forgoing the 70-200mm F2.8 for a lighter 135mm F1.8 and a long-range 70-400mm.

kysham: Nice light! Welcome back dude!

---

Added on December 7, 2010, 3:55 amAnd now for prime time - the one lens I intended to buy in 2010!


Meet the Sony Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm F2.0 SSM ZA.


It's a lightweight companion to the A900, perfect for street shooting.

Well, okay, maybe the Sony NEX-5 with Sony E 16mm F2.8 pancake is better... I have to admit, I am a lot more comfortable doing thorough street photography with it. I have to get back in tune with street photography using much more noticeable cameras.


Here it is, on the Sony SLT-A55. Because its SSM in-lens focusing motor is silent, it makes for great normal video in low light.

So what is the point of it being just F2.0 when Canon and Nikon have 24mm F1.4 lenses?

Optical quality. Zeiss makes very little compromise on contrast and detail. The lens is already great wide open - stopping down just increases depth of field. The lens is not less contrasty wide open, like my Minolta 50mm F1.4!


Oh, and of course, one very cool thing - being a F2.0 design, it is much more affordable compared to the Canon/Nikon counterparts, and it can focus a lot closer.


This is 19cm away from the sensor! (Shot with the SLT-A55, as per the setup above.)


This is pretty darn close, too. Note that it is a wide-angle macro!


It is nicely paired with the SLT-A55 because it gives the angle of view of 36mm on full-frame - which is the same as your phone's camera angle of view! This makes it a very handy focal length.

I know, I used to say I hated this focal length because it was so common, but it is indeed practical.


Anyway, here are some other primes I saw at Sony Style KLCC.

From left to right: Sony Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm F2.0 SSM ZA, Opteka 85mm F1.4, Sony 35mm F1.8 DT SAM, Sony 85mm F2.8 SAM, Minolta 50mm F1.4 (Original), Sony LA-EA1 A-mount to E-mount adapter.


This is the Sony 35mm F1.8 DT SAM on the A55. Very, very nice focal length, and very detailed wide open. This lens made a far better impression than the online samples I've seen of plain stuffed toys and doorknobs and bottles and batteries that people have been using this lens to take pictures of!


Meanwhile, here is the A900 with the Sony 85mm F2.8 SAM. Pretty portraity, I'd say, while retaining that detail.

This post has been edited by albnok: Dec 7 2010, 03:55 AM

What about the Sony 35mm F1.8 DT SAM on full-frame? I pressed the lens release button on the A900 to disable the lens checking, so it would not automatically switch to APS-C mode. When focused at infinity, you can see vignetting.


So I went home and took a family picture.

Left to right, back row: Minolta 50mm F1.4 (Original), Sigma 70-210mm F4-5.6, Minolta 70-210mm F4 "beercan", Cosina 70-210mm F2.8-4 1:2.5x Macro, Opteka 85mm F1.4, Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA, Tamron 200-400mm F5.6.

Left to right, middle row: Peleng 8mm F3.5 circular fisheye in M42 mount with A-mount adapter, Sigma 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG, Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 EX, Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT (gear-stripped and disassembled donation to science), Vivitar 24mm F2.0 adapted to A-mount, Sony Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm F2.0 SSM ZA, Minolta 24-50mm F4 (Original), Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D).

Left to right, front row: Sony LA-EA1 A-mount to E-mount lens adapter, Teleplus MC4 1.5x teleconverter, Teleplus MC4 2.0x teleconverter.


And now, just the primes.

Left to right, back row: Sony Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm F2.0 SSM ZA, Opteka 85mm F1.4, Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA.

Left to right, middle row: Peleng 8mm F3.5 circular fisheye in M42 mount with A-mount adapter, Minolta 50mm F1.4 (Original), Vivitar 24mm F2.0 adapted to A-mount.

Left to right, front row: Sony LA-EA1 A-mount to E-mount lens adapter, Teleplus MC4 1.5x teleconverter, Teleplus MC4 2.0x teleconverter.


Moving on...


Yes I did take pictures. The close focus really helped with this shot.


It also makes a cool toy-shooting lens.


Of course, I did go out with this lens...


Here's geekster! The lens goes much closer but I'll leave those shots out.


And so I went to the Kuala Lumpur International Motor Show 2010 at Putra World Trade Center.

Shot with the A55 and Zeiss 24mm F2.0. Great for the grab shot.


Shot with the A900 and Zeiss 24mm F2.0. All shots from this one onwards were with this combo, at F2.0.


I love how this lens makes you get close, and they pose differently as a result.


It's like they know - aha! Portrait orientation! Turn to the side!


She didn't get that memo, but it's okay, because she looks good.


You do get an exaggerated perspective sometimes. DxO Optics Pro had not come out with the Zeiss 24mm F2.0 lens correction module yet unfortunately (though, I can't spot barrel distortion, if any, to be honest.)


And that is all for today.


Alright, maybe a 50% crop. (100% crop, resized down to 50%.)

nouruddines: Truth is, mirrorless is the future. dSLRs will die first.

mastering89: It was opened and has not been reassembled properly.

Hmmm odd maybe because Live View only shows until a certain shutter speed and does not go slower. Then again, I don't run into such situations often.

Mspot: The 35mm F1.8 DT SAM is superb. Go check it out - it's a lot more easy to use compared to the 50mm focal length on APS-C. Good sharpness too.

Mr.Wang: Mine has a fair bit of duplication wor. Yours is all premium gold!

The light array looks good though you may have to put a magenta (counters the green) or orange (counters the blue) filter on it so it doesn't look cold and blue in most shots.

kysham: The bokeh is, indeed, really pleasant.

shootkk: The lens might cost 2 weddings. Not yours LOL.

(Then again, you don't need a wide...)

e-jump: Don't do it unless you have the RM3xxx to spare! I have not compared it to the Sigma 24mm F1.8 but I remember the 24mm F1.8 being good too.

Love your left-side wireless flash shot.

Correction: You can trigger a F42 using the pop-up flash. All Sony flashes can be triggered by Sony Alpha pop-up flashes except the F20.

tanjq87: I guess I'd prefer the full color shot of the Camaro. I see you narrowly escaped poison there!

zstan: Doesn't mean I don't love it too. There are times I wish I could transform my 135mm F1.8 into a 85mm F1.4 temporarily. It is a very useful focal length.

I do have the Opteka 85mm F1.4 but I don't bring it out as much. With A900 v2 though it's gonna be around more. (The DIY chip on it has got some alignment consistency problems, forcing me to use M mode previously with v1.)

linkinstreet: Nice!

Mspot: It is already here. I already posted a picture of it, and a picture from it, in the review of the Zeiss 24mm F2.0.

mastering89: Sigh DCM always like that, their reviews all very fail wan. They could've compared it to the A850, which is in the same price range.

zstan: For reviews they usually get review units.

cjlai: What is different about this fly shot?

chiahau: Quite dull, that Pavilion shot. Was it on purpose to show gloomy weather?

lwliam: Nice pose, but could have much more dramatic lighting to bring out the metallic-ness.

eventsphotoshoot: Have you turned on DRO? That might make it more noisy.

kuro0314: Who is saying the color is not as good?

To be honest, Sony is pretty consistent with their color, and I find the color to be the same from the A55 and A580.

chiahau: I see that it's hazy, but I can't tell if it's rain - try showing that is really is rainy.

gjtan: Could be shot at a better angle.

shukrie: Congratulations, and it's nice that the GPS coordinates are in!

8tvt: You can do it that way but if you want to mix ambient and flash light, you should match the color temperature of the ambient and flash light.

Go closer to the car and shoot wide. Or just wait.

ieR: Whoa that's a lot! Why do you need so many blue ones, though?

mastering89: Why didn't you ask me for one last TT? The basic cari-kerja one is orange. Every videographer's continuous light, has a panel that is just orange.

evilhomura89: No, cloudy would warm it up, and make orange light even more orange.

d4rkholeang3l: Basic, but nice.

kysham: In some lenses with built in stabilization, the IS motor moves a smaller glass group. This means the light has to go into a smaller IS group. It does not have such an optical compromise with the non-stabilized version.

porkchop: There is of course the Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM in A-mount, but it is not cheap.

ahtiven: LOL me too! Lost it during a wedding shoot.

Fisheyes are easy to manual focus, simply because you really don't have to manual focus. However the A33/A55 makes it really easy - enable the option in the mneu where you can press Delete while shooting, to magnify your view while focusing.

zstan: Hmmm. Try picking a different color channel to make your black-and-white from? So it separates the background from the kid.

I'd prefer #3 from Caturday, to be cropped something like this, since there is the reflection:



Of course the tail is not in the picture and it doesn't look all that harmonious... but you get the idea. Look for geometry!

As for the i-city shot, why not crop it after the green, blue and orange tree?

e-jump: You'd appreciate the F42's weight... though it would be nice to shoot events with 2 F58s. Then again you can keep one F42 in the bag and move flash from camera to other camera whenever necessary.

The KJ shot is one of those sunsets which look nice in real life but don't easily translate into nice pictures.

fansoption: Nice #2 and #7! Not a fan of the tilting portraits, though.

lanusb: No, less distortion if you use a full-frame lens on an APS-C body.

You get more distortion on the sides, so using it on a cropped body will crop off the distorted sides.

azrull nazreen: The ghosting is not an issue with me.

Mikeshashimi: The supposed ghosting happens with tiny, bright points of light, where the light is repeated, slightly offset from its original location. Regular filter-induced ghosting will show in 180 degrees opposite it, from the center of the image.

ahpingko: Why small pictures why shy lah? I quite like #2 and #6.

#11 is superb!

wingster: I like how #1 turned out. A bit more contrast would help though.

ieR: Wah! Mine doesn't fall off either (the wide-angle diffuser panel helps hold it in place.)

Nicely done, love how the background is metered exactly to not interfere with the model.

Uzumaki NaruTo: Could be stopped down more.

8tvt: You could overexpose; it always helps to reduce the noise.

kevinwcw: Argh, just a fraction of a second too late. Also it's a bit slanted.

ahpingko: Nice #1 and #2!

fansoption: Nicely done, though I can see the skin is obviously smoothened. You can try copying the layer, then only editing it. Then you change the opacity to 60% or so, so that some of the skin's original texture shows.

gjtan: Agreed!

e-jump: A bit cold and magentaish - maybe warmer and greener would be better on their skin?

chiahau: Oooh that turned out better than I remember!

wha7ever: Whoa!

Newbieeeeee: Nice #2! A bit more contrast wouldn't harm.

evilhomura89: #1 HDR is overdone. #2 is nice but less on the lomo effect.

lwliam: Nice #1! It looks like it's jealous that it cannot fly. I like the humor in #2.

ieR: Nice light. I like the soft shadow on her face.

destfull: Send it in?

signither: #1 is full of win!

mastering89: Man if you went slightly lower the 3-headed giraffe would look a lot more aligned!

The tiger is facing extinction because they don't know how to do what they should be doing in #3.

amadeo can you update the price list?

Sony Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm F2.0 SSM ZA = RM38xx
Sony 85mm F2.8 SAM = RM8xx

No price for the Sony 35mm F1.8 DT SAM yet, though, but we guess it will be RM7xx or so.

ahtiven: That is odd. Can you show us a picture?

Also, your area could just be dusty, so using a flash will show dust particles floating in the air.

ieR: Shutter speed does affect your flash power, when using HSS. Also why do you alternate between spelling it as shuttle and shutter?

ieR: Wireless flash signals from the pop-up flash should become extremely weak (though, some might say, not entirely gone) when HSS is enabled. Also, wireless flash and on-body flash itself will weaken, the faster the shutter speed, when HSS is used.

HSS does activate in Aperture Priority and even Manual Exposure. It won't activate however, if the flash is on the camera and is in bounce mode.

fansoption: Worth investing!

evilhomura89: Yes, being able to push/pull the lens to zoom is normal.

wingster: Nicely exposed on #3! It helps for #5 where the background is distracting.

zstan: No wonder he comes here to "spam".

d4rkholeang3l: Argh could've focused #1 better. Not a fan of slanting shots because they were framed too tightly and lose out what is in the bottom-right corner.

kysham: I guess I'd prefer a version without the mirror.

zstan: Don't worry lah some people live with an un-advanced battery grip, un-advanced flash articulation, un-advanced thumbwheel which overshoots when you scroll quickly, and un-advanced video AF. And apparently, a low-contrast monitor too, hence the need to overcompensate. But that's okay - just keep reminding everybody that you have this one and that one, oh wait 3 of that before, and people will respect you.

8tvt: The A33 is the cheapest CMOS Sony Alpha A-mount camera. (The NEX-3 + LA-EA1 adapter will cost more.)

Newbieeeeee: Yes, the 35-105mm F3.5-4.5 non-RS is good. The 35-105mm F3.5-4.5 RS is not so good though.

valve_300b:



This is the Canon 550D with auto-exposure and auto-focus, and the Sony A55 with auto-exposure and auto-focus.

If you want to manual focus in video, the A33 and A55 give focus confirmation.



This is the battery grip. Notice that it has a joystick to allow you to select AF points while in portrait mode, in exactly the same fashion as you would in the normal grip.

Also notice the flash, which just turns sideways to bounce up in portrait mode. On the conventional flash head you need to press a button and turn it along 2 axises to go from landscape bounce to portrait bounce.

vikingw2k: So, no more "back talking"? Agree?

I have owned one of those third-party wide-angle/fisheye adapters before and I know what you are talking about. However, the VCL-ECF1 is far better than that, much closer to a dedicated fisheye in output.

valve_300b: Apologies, I did have difficulty understanding your sentences.

nevermine: The VCL-ECF1 fisheye adapter is optically matched to the Sony E 16mm F2.8 E-mount lens (for the NEX series). It is a lot better than the third-party screw-on fisheye adapters. You can ask ianho how it is.

The VCL-ECU1 wide-angle adapter is optically matched to the Sony E 16mm f2.8 E-mount lens as well, and does not cause fisheye distortion. However, it does not seem to have reached Malaysia yet.

Both of these adapters are bayonet mounted on the 16mm, so you cannot mount it on any other lens.

Uzumaki NaruTo: Looks pinkish and rather overexposed to me. Not yellowish, though.

vikingw2k: I did not do a scientific, tripod-mounted comparison, so I can't tell you how close the VCL-ECF1 is to a real fisheye, or whether it even surpasses a regular fisheye.

I disagree - I did not say that the VCL-ECF1 is worse than the Sony 16mm F2.8 diagonal fisheye.

But hey, that is an interesting comparison to do.

For travel though, the NEX-3/NEX-5, 16mm F2.8 and VCL-ECF1 combo becomes like a much smaller, lighter Tokina 10-17mm F3.5-4.5. It's a F2.8 diagonal fisheye and a regular rectilinear wide-angle lens. Some people will see the value in travelling with a small kit - you don't have to agree though.

So, no more "back talking"?

Finally, I have with me the very solid Olympus OM to E-mount adapter! It presses the aperture lever automatically so I don't have to press the DOF Preview button on OM mount lenses. It's not mine though - went to pick it up from the shop for a colleague.


A900, Sony Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm F2.0 SSM ZA at minimum focus distance.

fansoption: The F58 can go as fast as the camera can - 1/8000s on the A850/A900.

Mikeshashimi: Bit too tightly framed on the bottle.

d4rkholeang3l: Welcome back, I love the first shot! It's clean and cute! Same for #4. Looks well exposed to me.

eddybeh: Well composed for #2! I like how you used the lines as geometry.

"Draw" the flash around the Gundam by shooting it through another lens. Yes, use a lens' closed aperture blades as a snoot.

kuro0314: Yes!

Banzai_san: Your landscape has interesting geometry - why not make the most of it by standing a bit further back so the edges 'close in' more?

The pulled-back highlights in the top-right look a tad flat - let it blow, let it breathe!

zstan: Represent! Though, there has to be an angle where the tree can go solo.

geekster129: Uh... that kinda looks unintentionally out of focus.

hazril: Understood!

chiahau: Roll yours and see. While I understand how Program Mode works well (and Program Shift), I can't say I use it.

8tvt: Well done, though it could use just a bit more depth of field.

chiahau: No, no.

Program Mode is useful for those people who use Aperture Priority all the time - let's say you were shooting in the dark at F1.4, and you take the camera out of your bag while walking past an interesting scene in daylight and BOOM! Your shot is blown.

Or you shoot a landscape at F11 and then the next time you want to get a grab shot indoors, you click and you hear the shutter waaaiting.

Program Mode automatically goes towards F2.0 when there is not enough light, and then pulls the ISO up if it still doesn't have enough. When in bright daylight, it pushes the ISO down, then picks a darker aperture.

Program Shift is when you want to override this - say you are at F2.0 and want to roll to F1.4, or you're outdoors and want to use a faster shutter speed, so you roll it from F11 to F4.

8tvt: As you like, though I felt the sword should be in focus.

To make a small object appear big, you need to give it deep depth of field. Take a picture, then adjust aperture as necessary.

evilhomura89: Keyword: Geometry.

There is potential in #2 - you see repeated flowers? You can make art out of this scene.

Or #7 - I spotted this:



(It was rotated before cropping.) Even if you can't get that macro, you can crop.

Boon3: Whoa, classic! Where was this?

cjlai: I think it would be more interesting to see a flamingo shot all by itself, since the flamingos are always crowding around.

I like #2 tiger more. #1 is just a wildlife shot. #2 shows personality!

countdracula: The A33/A55 has less variables to contend with when determining focus accuracy, compared to SLR technology which has too many distances to adjust. This would probably explain the better image quality, due to better focusing and cleaner output.

Refer to Page 2 of this fantastic article:

http://www.photoclubalpha.com/2010/12/11/a...-pros-and-cons/

mastering89: Bromance tuh!

seanwc101: That is cool!

kopitiam: Good idea! Press the lens release button to disable automatic APS-C mode, allowing you to use the vignetting.

geekster129: HDR, or literally, High Dynamic Range, is intended to express a contrasty scene with high dynamic range within the limits of the digital sensor.

Usually you'd take 3 or more exposures, under, over and regularly exposed. Then you merge these exposures. Or you use the same RAW file and process it 3 times (though, this causes noise and less dynamic range.)

That contrasty look is a side effect from the merging process, as you'd often want to mask the 3 exposures before merging them. A solid border sometimes causes jaggy artifacts along where the sky and building touches, so people usually apply a large-radius Gaussian Blur to the mask.

When the mask is too big, the 'halo' effect appears, which is honestly, the mark of n00b HDR. Some people make use of this halo effect and exaggerate it.

In my opinion, real good HDR is not obvious. It looks natural, while making highlights and shadows visible, just like you would see it with your own eyes, but you know that a camera would overexpose the highlights (while properly exposing shadows) or underexpose the shadows (while properly exposing highlights).

HDR is not shot at different times of the day! They try to shoot it within the same minute so that the clouds and light does not change.

This post has been edited by albnok: Dec 16 2010, 12:10 PM