One front view one back view of the box XD

EDIT : LOL i just check my box mine is the one without the TV picture. So I guess one newer box and one older box?

XD

This post has been edited by Haruji Sora: Aug 12 2017, 04:27 PM

Any entry level TV has just the basic HDR support.

Which means it can decode HDR signal but the panel is unable to "show" the high dynamic range due to the inability to hit peak brightness as well as black levels needed for HDR image to really give the wow factor.

Esp when most entry level TV is basically full with 8 bit panel, hence it doesnt even have the wide range of color that can be displayed.

Just don't expect too much. Decent HDR panels are going around 5k+ now while flagships are going to 5 digit range.

Anyways for entry level you're better looking for TV you be better looking for a panel with the best Picture Quality you find acceptable within your budget range.\

I cant vouch for any brands, as different ppl eye have different preference (whether it is VA panel, or IPS panel)

Some ppl vouch by Sony, some Samsung, some Panasonic, and blah blah blah

The best way to do testing is to go Harvey (you dont need to buy from them)

Bring a USB stick or something with a video that you watch the most, ask them to loan you their remote, turn down their setting to regular movie setting, and eyeball all the TV within your budget range.

Picture Quality is very human dependent. What looks nice to you might not look nice to another.

I think the most important thing in HDR is not about the max brightness but more to the difference between contrast (Bright vs dark)

So for OLED screen, due to the nature of the panel able to turn off individual pixels for pure darkness, they do not require such high nits as peak brightness to output a very good looking HDR. However for VA/IPS panel, due to the black is not truly black, then it has to compensate with > 1000 nits to make HDR look good.

And well HDR compliant are still very new market and it still subject to tuning as well as adjustments.

I'm still waiting for HDR10+ LOL. (or w/e they call the new spec)

The curve hype is winding down as there is no tangible benefit from staying at flat or going curve.

2017 major flagships are mostly flat screens again which is the sign of things to come

Spec wise is more or less identical. But whichever your budget tell you to.

Just take note that if you don't need the TV in a hurry, the MU series will be starting their price slash within this 4-5 months

In fact the price slash already started, but the amount will only grow bigger as time pass.

LOL after removing my HyypTV from my system the HDMI-CEC is all working again (My HT 6750w finally can detect as HDMI Receiver sound output)

But LOL after like a day plus of standby of the player, it decides to unpair all HDMI-CEC again hahahaha. Only can revive the handshake by removing HDMI4 cable. And then I change cable it will revive again, then died again after a few days.

I'm beginning to think it's my HT6750W also have problem with CEC handshake just like stupid HyypTV. Maybe it cannot be left standby at all LOL.

Yeah I'm thinking of a Yamaha RX series (Dolby Amplifier). Perhaps maybe I just buy it first and plug in my existing HT speaker to cheapskate first until got budget to buy better speakers hahahaahaha. It sounds dumb though XD. But survey around holy crap tall speakers are so darn expensive (it easily can hit 6k for all 5 plus subwoofer)

EDIT : I do believe the stupid speakers cannot plug in to another amplifier without blowing up though XD

Merdeka sales is not bad, you can find some good deals

This post has been edited by Haruji Sora: Aug 15 2017, 02:46 PM

KU / MU 6 series.

With that budget most TV default already have Smart

3D will not be playable. However most 3D bluray original disc is actually 2 disc pack, so you still have the regular 1080p edition in the same box.

For TV setting, the general rule of thumb for setting is (i'm typing this off my memory btw so might miss some) :-

Regular SDR viewing :-

Mode :- Movie
Backlight :- Between 7 to 12 depending on room brightness.
Contrast :- Between 92 to 95.
Brightness :- 50
Sharpness :- 0
Motion Blur :- Dependent, usually I put Custom with Judder 1 or 0, Motion around 6 to 8. The other setting is off (iinm LED motion blur or something like that)
Smart LED : Off
Dynamic Contrast :- Off
Warm 1 or 2, depending on liking (I used 1 cause 2 is too "yellow" for me)
Gamma : 0 or -1 dependant


Regular HDR viewing :-

Mode :- Movie
Backlight :- 20
Contrast :- 100
Brightness :- 50
Sharpness :- 0
Motion Blur :- Dependent, usually I put Custom with Judder 1 or 0, Motion around 6 to 8. The other setting is off (iinm LED motion blur or something like that)
Smart LED : On
Dynamic Contrast :- Off or Low (Some ppl like High for HDR for i find the black kinda crushed quite badly)
Warm 1 or 2, depending on liking (I used 1 cause 2 is too "yellow" for me)
Gamma : 0 or -1 dependant


Gaming :-
Mode :- Game
Everything else can almost mirror above setting (dependent on HDR/SDR). Take note Samsung Game mode does not save profiles between SDR and HDR so need manual adjustment. Thankfully I only need to adjust backlight most of the time since I usually leave all the rest roughly the same setting for game mode.


EDIT : Of course my setting does not work for everyone so adjust some of the things according to your liking (like those Dynamic Contrast and stuff). Some ppl on avsforum even swear by Dynamic Mode for some reason (cause the over saturated pictures gives more "pop") but it is not the way movies should look like XD

This post has been edited by Haruji Sora: Aug 22 2017, 10:57 AM

Iinm it is viewable just with the weird dual image output overlaying each other LOL.

Can open and can watch is a different story hahaha.

Iirc there is a method to downconvert 3D back to 2D, whether it is external device or player support. Not all players have it though.

A pro just dropped by and give lesson XD

Anyways KS7000 seems to be struggling with playing 4k rip (those > 40GB data size per movie)

Seems buffering/lag every now and then. Wondering is it processor bottleneck or my network not fast enough.

My NAS is hooked to Gigabit connection, but TV streaming using AC (full strength) WiFi. Maybe I should try LAN next XD

*ahem* BD rip @ very high bitrate running of from Network Access Storage (DLNA)

XD

1180 problem is where the HDR notification pop up won't show up anymore when the source kicked into HDR mode. (you need to either manually check via pressing info button on the older remote or enter the picture advance setting to see if they auto bump backlight to 20)

1201 cannot be used in Msia set, different model designation. Trust me, I downloaded it and tried

EDIT : UK firmware has the prefix T-JZMDEUC while Malaysia / Asia Pacific has T-JZMDABC.

EDIT 2 :
For firmwares, there are only really three different ones based on the chassis:
Euro models use the T-JZMDEUC chassis
Cis, Asia, MEAF and Latin America use T-JZMUABC chassis
The continent of North America uses T-JZMAKUC chassis

--Quoted from another forum

This post has been edited by Haruji Sora: Aug 23 2017, 12:37 PM

Though color + contrast wise the higher spec one will still win the entry level 6 series even with the distance. But immersion is the one where distance vs tv size comes in play.

I used to have a 6 series 3D LED TV 55 inch (ES6220) and now a KS7000 55 inch (wanted 65 inch but lol that price is like double)

Viewing distance is still the same normally (between 7 feet to 8 feet ish), color and contrast is like days different.

Of course I can always move another chair to sit like 6 feet away and give the KS7000 even better PQ + FOV.

Alas I sold my LED TV so there is no more way for me to put side by side to fool around hahaha.

But LOL ES6220 build quality so damn good. The panel and the back of the TV is "screwed" while KS7000 is glued LOL.

Actually it is a combination of 3M like double sided and some clips.

Source :- Saw ppl seperating panel before from stock TV.

Haha LULZ sorry XD

My KS7000 start to be a bit loose at the top left side. Can feel there is a small gap. Pray hard it wont separate more haha.

I can push it in but it wont stay "clicked" in.

It havent reach the point it have a gaping hole yet so no light is entering.

I added a little calendar before my 2 years is over so I'll probably give them a call by then (or when it get worse haha)

It's not that bad yet, just a small bump that I can push in and it pop back out

Nope. The screw should come with the bracket.

Most 4k TV have very good upscaller build in. Even 480p videos looks not bad.

I dont see any problems playing 1080p for normal eyes, unless your eye is like straight up imbalance to the point can see the image softness.

Of course there is no denying due to upscale there is a degree of softness apply, but to me it is very minimal (i only notice more of it at 480p videos)

In general Samsung seems to have one of the better up scale tech (i notice LG is more soft, but maybe that's just the IPS Panel)

Sony upscaller is not bad as well. I didnt try other brands like Hi Sense though.

Budget not mentioned

If you want cheap and good, for Samsung any of the 6 series will suffice

(MU6xxx, KU6xxx)

Technically I assume since you're primary media consumption is like 720p and 1080p, probably guessing streaming / downloads of Movies and TV series as well as maybe Astro?

You can also go shop to eyeball a few other equivalent models from other brands.

I would recommend Harvey Norman just to eyeball (but don't buy from them unless got good discount, evil customer here hahaha)