buy 10-22 if u like landscapes. shoot at between f5.6 to f8 for optimum. 3.5 is unusable imo. about the same fov as the 16-35mm on FF.
imho the 70-200 f4 non IS is hard to use. usable outdoor only mostly. indoor at f4 its quite hard to use when u zoom in... z:p


hi steven, if u r shooting on a tripod it's best to turn IS off on that lens. on some higher end lens it detects if the body is on a tripod but i always turn it off as well. since u r on a tripod if IS is turned on, the gyros are spinning inside and will try to compensate for movement which isn't there. so what you are showing in the pics is expected.

This post has been edited by crocs: Oct 6 2010, 04:12 PM

definitely as a first lens. good for portraiture on 1.6 crop factor bodies. the build quality is not so good though with plastic mount but for that price nobody shud complain bokeh is nice.
the 1.4 ofc is better in build quality and optics. it's got a 8 bladed diaphragm which makes bokeh slightly rounder. the 1.8 has 5 blades. 1.2 is L series so price is multiple.

imho. just buy it first. even if u decide to get a 1.4 or 1.2 later u wont lose much to begin with.

p.s. as fruitie said u get what u pay for la haha.

This post has been edited by crocs: Oct 6 2010, 05:00 PM

this is for u then bro...



This post has been edited by crocs: Oct 6 2010, 05:17 PM

concur. only red dot lens haha. the 1dmk4 is a 1.3 crop factor body though. hopefully 1dmk5 is FF then i will sell backside to upgrade.

you mean not really good for the wallet?

if i may, most definitely it helps with focusing speed too

This post has been edited by crocs: Oct 8 2010, 12:06 PM

right, the usm is just the motor, the IQ depends on the glass inside. it's unable to focus is because the focus point doesnt have enough contrast to focus cos it's too dark or everything is the same color in the dark . thats why a 2.8 easily focusses better than a 3.5-5.6 lens. even if u r shooting at f8, it still focusses at 2.8. other factors that affect is body also la but just focussing my comment on the lens for this one. my 2sen

This post has been edited by crocs: Oct 8 2010, 12:35 PM

aiyo everyone ignore u ka. for less than rm100 there r so many cheapo tripod out there. i think rm 50-80 got d. brand notimportant but all a bit flimsy. dont expect quality one la. any shop shud have those. depending on what body u want to mount on it it may or may not be stable enough imo

suggest u save more to get the 70-200 f4is. its a good lens n new. IS is really useful at 200mm
just save a bit more. but if u wish to use this for work, it needs to perform in low light n u will need the 2.8 IS.

dun buy the 70-200 non is la... savig u some regret later just sharing

This post has been edited by crocs: Oct 10 2010, 01:33 AM

buy a wireless trigger lo or us a pc sync cord... wired. wireless is betetr la wtth a transmitter and receiver. starts at about RM 90-100 per pair.

cheapest one is phottix PT-04
http://shashinki.com/shop/phottix-tetra-pt...facturers_id=99

in between got Phottix Aster i believe slightly longer range
http://shashinki.com/shop/phottix-aster-pt...facturers_id=99

better one is Phottix Atlas which is compatible with Pocket Wizard
http://shashinki.com/shop/phottix-atlas-al...facturers_id=99

This post has been edited by crocs: Oct 10 2010, 12:02 PM

sometimes this is due to ur LCD not calibrated. u might see not enough color but others see over saturated

either calibrate ur LCD with a spyder 3 or get a MAC or other ips monitor lo

nice pics. i think EF 50mm f/1.4

go buy it. new shud be around RM 1400 +/-. u will keep it until even after u go full frame or APS-H.

need to make you a raw believer. since you are post processing anyway u should shoot in raw since raw stores raw sensor data (u know this already) and you have a bigger dynamic range (4k-16k brightness levels vs 256 in jpg) to work with when PP. most software lets you bulk export to jpg so it's easy. LR3 for example is my fav but DPP will do too.

go RAW!

This post has been edited by crocs: Oct 21 2010, 10:21 PM

for EF and EF-S lenses the AF motor is built-in the lens along with the IS gyros if any. Normally non Canon users ask questions like this

honestly i never heard of screw drive motor on Canon bro . i only know non AF 3rd party lens on Canon body will have to use MF.