Send to workshop to do the job, should be rm100 including workmanship... Don't play play on this, if it snaps, it will cut the pulley sensor....

Better extractor won't leak, that's the difference.... It cost me rm200 and I have to return to them for changing the flue gas sensor..... But it is not from those bling bling ah beng shops that youngsters always visit.... My friend change over there for rm300 and it leaks after few months because of thin iron used, color only nice....

How long you change the gear oil?

Change to manual....

I'm starting to hate my Wira......The air cond is freaking cold......

Yeah, hate it... Put very near to off it is still very cold.... I think something wrong....

Well, is lucky that raining seasons are over, so....

Looks like absober or some loose screws?

What for? I'm telling this to Honda and Toyota owners....

Depending to size... I put all my amps(3) at the boot area....

I don't know, overhaul will more or less better than recon, most of the time.... If your foreman knows how to do a proper job... I got a foreman that really good on this, so I never worry on repair instead of buy new or recon....

This post has been edited by kyheng: Jan 7 2011, 09:35 AM

399 also 3xx, 301 also 3xx...
rm40 is for RON95 or RON97?
If RON97 pretty good, RON95.... If that's 399km done....

If the 3++ >340km then only good....
Also, the most accurate way is, top up petrol till full, reset the trip meter then drive until first light appears on low fuel level. Top up again till full and take the km done before reset it again. Then from there km done/total petrol you top up. Getting 15km/l will be good, 16km/l can be on par with Hybrid cars....

Well, I'm touching 15km/l now for my Wira..... Next target 16km/l..... Changing lighter pulley can help, right?

Those air filter will only yields worst FC.... From my 7 years of owning this car, it tells me that, it don't need all sorts of junks(after market air filter, VS, grouding kit) to perform better.... Try use back original filter and see how it goes....
Some acc shops always says they are better than Proton engineers but the fact is, acc shop operators knows nuts on air/fuel ratio....

^Well, heavy foot yields me 13.5km/l average, light foot yields me 15km/l.
Stock air filter got many advantages, cheap to maintain(last around 20kkm before you change it), just air blow during each 5000km service. Because the O2 sensor will do its calculations, put more air means it will require more petrol for the same job....
After market got its pros also, you need to do chemical cleaning(take out money), noisier ride(single ok, but with family?), increased HP? maybe, add it top speed maybe reach faster than stock, but how many roads can give you maintain top speed?

Anyway, 400-480km is what I can get always when my foot are very heavy, so nothing to boast around. Now I want to maintain constant of 550-600km with 40l of petrol... Is not because of want to show off, is more on protecting the enviroment....

Oh yes, bypass the catalytic convertor, 4-1 extractor, 9.5mm plug cable and Bosch Super 4... This is the best combinations I need to get that type of FC. Even my light foot is still 100km/h.....
Tyre always 230kpa on the 14" and using semi from day 1 till now....
Follow my way and you can see the difference, I see Bosch Super are better than others that are more expensive than it.

Yes, rm56 only.... Can use till 50000km....

4 vs 1... you do the maths..... But from this thread I guess I the only 1 who are using Bosch Super 4 and getting good FC.... So...... Let your car do the talking... My car tells me that it will perform the best when using Super 4... Try talk to your car.... It will tell you....

Sorry brother, with your driving style, I'm at 500-530km..... How much the plug cost? If not mistaken >rm80?