weird mindset actually.. are you really plan sell it before you buy?? of course you might say, upgrade, need funding..

but for me, i think if money allow, i will go for the best available.. or else buy d until really could afford another new one, without selling the old.. (at least as backup)

is that really A5?? i thought the layout of those button seem like A7 series

HSS is for close distance fill-flash only. coz normally HSS will make your background under-exposed,

the pro body open for everyone??

@fanoption
if you break down them, 1 pieces = rm15, same price as eneloop what.. get eneloop la.. happy user here. XD
(although at first i wish scout the sony branded, but still, lot of people poison me about it)

actually i curious, whether the editorial take the photo on internet/flickr or they ask the owner send them one for publish?

unless you expecting a superzoom lens, i would say 18-250 (not necessary), yes it is convenient, but you will not have real sharp at tele end
but however, i feel 16-105 perform better (although this not really tele enough), because of it match the flash.. 16mm -> 105mm coverage if you expect to get a flash soon..

i not mean the flash distance.. i know flash distance is GN / aperture at iso100..
but i mean the coverage.. is just like the flash fired at same angle of view as lens

what i know is, superzoom like 18-200, 18-250 or even 18-270, is categorise as all-in-one/travel lens
hence, the outcome not always the best, because optical degrade at tele-end, mean not sharp.. but it's convenient, as you no need to change the lens often. (but then, don't we buy slr because of the interchangeable lens? if your answer is no, then this type of lens i think suit you the most)

and i agree with shootkk that think, is NEED or WANT

iso so high how that image gonna be sharp?? (yes, higher shutter speed, but produce soft image and noise due to Noise-reduction mechanism)

follow the rule of thumb :

which is minimum 1/300, if you zoom till the max (personal experience, with open sky, ISO 100/200 also can make it d)

@ahpingko
the defocus/bokeh/depth of field, not only rely on aperture size, it also related with focal length (the longer focal, the shallower depth) and focus distance (the shorter the focus distance, the shallower depth)
and because of the 2nd point, you need to stop down in order to show whole petal in focus rather than only the stig?(dono the name)

@linkinstreet
moar??

huh? possible ka? 35%power wor.. two batteries in grip ar??

auto AF tend to make mistake it might not be the one you wish to focus. but the only good is noob-proof.. because the chips decide where to focus..
but center AF point is more sensitive than corner AF point.. correct me if i were wrong..

btw, anyone that attend zoo, can tell what the grandprize??

yesterday alpha zoo photo competition organized by sony malaysia in collaborate with studio zaloon at zoo negara..

8vtv, other point? the have their use, when using LOCAL AF point, where you can select which point to focus (on older body) is quite easy with d-pad where you no need the AF-lock to recompose the shot.

wa.. 30mmf/2.8 ..

This post has been edited by hiansitt: Aug 9 2010, 01:23 PM

@boon3
takde join.. no transport..

@ahpingko
go alphanatics register and look for the workshop&seminar + competition (in-house)

@zstan
Local is useful if you know wher to focus ma. rather than composing which take another few second, i use local all the time, but usually up, down, left, right and centre only, those corner rarely use..

Pinging alphanatics.com [174.120.120.151] with 32 bytes of data:
Pinging www.alphanatics.com [202.190.179.20] with 32 bytes of data:
DNS give such result la..

oh.. sorry for my understanding..

not very sure can a550 being mod to split image focus, but with that, MF is quite easy i can say

@zstan
increase sharpness do bring some halo or noise (just they are in-camera sharpening)

@ahpingko
and, not always stop down aperture will give sharper image, due to diffraction, the light might just hit neighbour pixel sensor. hence, make the image softer.. so, is depend where is the aperture sweet spot for the lens, but mostly is >f/8 but <f/16 (some lens might produce sharpest image at f/5.6)
actually, since you like macro, like sharpness, and also like portrait, why don't get a tamron sp90? XD