The fixed part to PC, what cable you use, ribbon? Is the connection/soldering reliable, becos it tends to get twisting and bending as my PC is not on the desk furthermore the 9pin serial port is at the back of PC. As the cable is 1.5M length, the cable is definitely be rolled when not in use. I dun felt comfortable that the soldering can last.
I still prefer a soldered 9 pin female socket, or unless it is a pin header type.
BTW, the 4 pin TTL to the devices, prefer the cable to be loose i.e. 4 cables are standalone by itself rather than fixed as the serial port layout of the modem/router tend to be varied by brands even versions. see my attachment




This post has been edited by goolias: Jul 28 2010, 12:10 AM

Sorry for the poor illustration of the 1.5 meter cable. No, it's not a ribbon cable. I'll be using a shielded cable to protect against signal noise. The soldered points will be reinforced with hot glue and part of the cable bind down to the PBC board. Don't worry about flimsy connection as I emphasize quality. Is this ok or would you still prefer otherwise?

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Added on July 28, 2010, 12:24 amSo what do you want at the device end of those 4 TTL cables? Just bare wires? Single pin header connectors may not be compatible with your D-Link 4-pin socket.

This post has been edited by Alpha Wolf: Jul 28 2010, 12:24 AM

Hi,

OK, I accept the hot glue way then, although it's kinda uncommon becos I only see that in xbox 360 dvdrom pcb where Microsoft do it to prevent ppl from hacking.
Bare wires at devices end, I still want pin header on the pcb so that bare wires can be detacheable.
Let me know the total cost as of latest revision.

This post has been edited by goolias: Jul 28 2010, 10:13 AM

Well, I'm using a fixed serial cable to make it more affordable for you. I don't have spare null modem cable to FOC for you. I'm using all new components. After all, I don't see a need for you to detach the serial cable. Instead, the connect-to-device end must be detachable with a header to allow it to interface with different devices.

Regarding the Xbox 360 hacking prevention, hot glue can easily be removed with a hot air gun.

Alright I'll leave bare wires and a pin header.
The price of the serial console still stays the same, RM 58. I'm not charging you for the cables. It's mainly the serial console. Plus one JTAG cable (RM 25) and postage (RM 5) with RM 5 discount for taking both, total is RM 83.

U seems to know alot in serial console and JTAG stuff huh?
R u a frequent hardware firmware hacker, do you undertake any services on
firmware hacking on game console or network devices, or willing to share with me?
PM me payment detail.

http://www.rwhitby.net/projects/wrt54gs

if you refer to this link instruction no 2 (image) is similar like mine but other unit need to solder on it actually. is your JTAG cable is similar like the link i posted here.

Oh dear, that thing on the left is a Serial Port, not a JTAG Port. Looks like they've really cut cost of manufacturing by omitting these in later batches. To identify ports:

Serial Port: 10-pins, 2 rows, 5-pins per row.
JTAG Port: 12-pins, 2 rows, 6-pins per row.

The one on the right IS a JTAG Port without the header.

Check again to make sure whether yours have or do not have a 12-pin header for JTAG.
In the event that you don't have a header and you're alright with medium soldering, I can supply you a 12-pin header.

payment down via M2U,pls check ur MBB acct

You seem capable of using JTAG and serial console, you know quite a bit yourself.
Well, I just have great interest in electronics/computers and these sorta stuff.
My knowledge has a limit too, but I'm willing to share what I know. What are you interested in? XBox 360?

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Added on July 28, 2010, 4:36 pmPayment successfully received, please PM me your postage details. Expect a day or two for assembly and another day for postage.

This post has been edited by Alpha Wolf: Jul 28 2010, 04:36 PM

both have the JTAG also but need to solder it actually. or you can do it for me ka?

If you can bring over and collect again at SS2, no problem. But you'll need to pay for the 12-pin header, only RM 1 each.

This is just to confirm that the serial port in my DNS323 is the little white color socket ( like fan header on typical VGA card fan) in the pic below:

Here are some pictures I took while assembling the Serial RS-232 to TTL Level Shifter cable:


Packed for postage:

Posted at 5:14PM today.
PosLaju Tracking Number: EN 296781981 MY

goolias, instead of using hot glue, I use metal wires to bind the cable to the board. It provides a much stronger support.

Great product can be use with GL and also Mikrotik Boards :-)

hi bro.
do u have max232 ic for sale??
i hv been looking for it for quite some time but cantt get any.

This post has been edited by mysattv: Sep 6 2010, 06:17 PM

hi...i need help to un brick my wrt54gl...

usually it take how long to debrick

Hi,

Im interested in a serial cable that can be used to debrick a TP Link WR941ND. Image of the connection below:

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Seria...L-WR941ND_ver.3

Also interested if you have pins for the connection on the board?

Im also would like to know if the serial cable can be used with a usb to serial adapter?

Could you PM me the price?

Thanks!

Sorry for the late reply, somehow LowYat stop email-notifying me about new post in this thread.
Yes I have Max232 for sale if you're still interested.
Purchasing a single unit will cost slightly more.

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Added on September 30, 2010, 7:19 pmFirst you have to determine whether your WRT54GL is really bricked.

You can follow these guidelines:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Recov...rom_a_Bad_Flash

Or start a new thread asking for help in the Technical Support or BroadbandUser-2-User section.

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Added on September 30, 2010, 7:21 pmIf your router is truly bricked and can be recovered via JTAG cable. It takes less then a few hours.
But to determine whether your router is really bricked but still recoverable can take much more time.

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Added on October 4, 2010, 2:59 pmYou will need a serial connector with a level shifter/connector.
Yes I have the header pins. You will require 4-pin in a row.
Yes the serial connector works fine with a usb to serial adapter.

Do you need the 1.5 meter serial cable connected to the level shifter?
Or you have your own serial extention cable and would you like it to be something like this:




This post has been edited by Alpha Wolf: Oct 4 2010, 02:59 PM

Hi,

PMed you regarding un-bricking for D-Link 2640T modem..