right on the money monsh and DzX..
the greatest penalty is on coling performance in the block. not to worry bro, a simple fix/swap will do...a simple case of mireading the manual, cud happen to even the best of us.

hi bro,

ur fans there bro, is it in pull ? are those CMs ?

congrats on the build bro, a beginers build with multi res 100, that deserve a personally i like the smaller res over bay res, but thats just me..one thing bout 100 res, it give liltle room for back pressure, so filling it to a certain level is crucial and make sure u tighten the cap hard though.

bleedin res 100 with the cap on or off doesnt really matter. with the cap off u ought to understand the risk involve especially of overflowing when the pump is turn off, as this is when presure will push the level up = overflowing, with litle room above the water line, overflowing when the pump is off is pretty easy to do. with the cap tighly on, u would reduce/eliminate the risk of spilling / overflow, but bleed time might take a hit. up to the installer really...i've used the res 100 before with a shorter tube to the pump and with a more powerful pump, so what i did was put the cap on, bubles will surface and get trap above the water line, so just uncap it, release the trapped air, and put the cap back on, refill when necessary. reduce any overflow risk.
but being a small res, a low water line aint that pretty, a full one is (imo)..so i add a fillport, which lets me fill the res totally, and worry less on overflowing..i think bro lichyetan highlighted this too.

and another thing, flaming, however or whatever ways u spins it, aint cool. a healthy discussion is.

sorry bout that, i'd cleared it up a bit...just pm away bro..

hmm, thats what i thought...if u have extra cash bro, get one of'em swift's rad box or EK's bracket and mount the fans on the other side, push would be good. having some distance from the psu is a good thing. i kinda faced the same problem on my current build, fans sucking and pushing hot air from GC backplate into the rad ..not healthy

hi bro,

there is no such thing as "...but i found out that the res no enough capacity to filled my 420 and whole loop.." in WC...its a close loop bro, u can be using a mullti res 100mm and still run ur loop, or u can even scratch out the res altogether and run with a T line instead...a res only purpose is for ease of use..thats it, u can use big/small/long/short/single bay/dual bay etc doesnt make a difference...ur problem with that setup is bleeding...since ur res its postion that way, means during bleeding, the air buuble has no where to go but up, in your case is the rad..so top potion of ur rad is fill with air..if u do the res inlet/outlet at the bottom, will give u a water line in res, so the air will be trapped above the water line, just unscrew the the top a bit and let the air out..so, either u need to redo the inlet and outlet of the res at the bottom (which is more ideal..) or if u r the advanturous type, maintain the setup, but add a fillport so the air can go out that way, but word of caution, i've done this, its doable but its pretty hard to bleed...

i'm curious bro, how did u fill the res initially ?

bet most pips here guessed thats how u did it, but i just wanted to be sure..thats a really tight fit to do
res orientation, regardless of v2 or etc, its up to ther user really, ur own creativity kinda thing, u can have it upside down, horizontol etc...but adhere to the golden rule, know or plan where u want the air to be release, it'll help u in bleeding, future filling and draining etc..

we all can advice u, but u know the whole story as u r hands-on on ur own system, u somehow have to figure out how and what is the safest way to counter this...if u fancy the fillport, i noticed on one of ur picts that the res was 1/4 fill when the pump was on, so my best bet will be during that time..caution again bro..u have to unscrew one of the free port at the top bit by bit (slowly) and see how the water level react, if the water level goes up, quickly screw it back, or u'll end up with a fountain..if it doesnt goes up, then make sure u already have a fillport ready and screw the bad boy in...its tricky bro, so be very careful..if u cant stomach it, last thing to do is drain the system and redo...the best of luck to u bro...

hi bro..been bz lately... bila nak battle net nih huhuhu

i think hes referring to the trapped air pocket from the rad, pump pushes water into the rad and force air pocket into res, once pump is off, back presure pushes the air back into the rad and water fill the res...

or as Dz said, simply not enough water, pump pushes water into the (almost) empty rad, once pump is off, water goes back down (gravity) and back into the res..

This post has been edited by vladtheimpaler: Aug 23 2010, 12:51 PM

speaking of bitspower, i received some pictures of the new 460 block i want to share..

hahaha true dat ... a constructive debate i may add..
Theoretically, the temp diff at points in the loop pretty low that it would not matter much on loop arrangement, (res --> pump being exception).

vlad

tru dat on the pricey hose clamps..there are a bunch of them now, n cost quite a lot for just clamps (e.g evil's clamp which did not went to prodcution coz of too expensive..but desing being picked up by lamptron..)..parring these clamps with barbs would cost as much as a comp and probably more sometime. most clamps works the same, depends on user's preference in term of what kind of look he wants.

personally i prefer barbs over comp, as it looks really slick w/o that comp ring bump..pairing with a clamp would have same effect..so zip ties for me, those tiny black ones.

vlad

bro, yours is a FAQ…here my take on it…principally/theoritically, bigger dissipation area is always good in term of dissipating the heat (w), so the more rad surface is always good.
but practically, what u should pay attention is your water/fluid temp since that ur water/fluid temp's limitation is the ambiance. Water temp would not go lower than ambiance.
so ur system is good if ur current setup is less than 10c delta (between water temp and ambience), adding more rad surface would yield little significant vs money burned, but if delta is more, than u have more room for improvement, in term of increasing rad surface/better rad + postitioning / fans selection and the likes..
this way u'll see the money burned produce better results due to the decreasing bigger deltas.
so in wc don’t pay much attention on components temp comparison in term of evaluating wc sys effectiveness, try to gain better air water delta, than u'll see better component temp before and after.
so its water air delta 1st, component temp second.
this is also a good read..
"WC Myth busted"

This post has been edited by vladtheimpaler: Oct 17 2010, 10:46 PM

lichyetan +1
owikh's +1

bro bubbles need a place to go je bro, channel it to the right direction and u r good to go...
wah cantik setup

This post has been edited by vladtheimpaler: Oct 17 2010, 10:59 PM

it cant and wont...bubbles on the block restrict the cooling properties of the fluid/water to the affected block surfacce..(water is not in contact due to the bubble) = no cooling..same goes those in tubes..it'll move along the system and get stuck in rads / block...so a HUGE no no there bro..

inbox = i'm clearing it up now, bro...thanks for the heads up.

bro images are super blurrry ... cant really see much woor

that a drain port using DD's drain/fillport adapter

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Added on October 27, 2010, 8:13 amwah bro, wassup with cable ties...use the adapter 45s @ 90s to route the tube better..

This post has been edited by vladtheimpaler: Oct 27 2010, 08:13 AM

a t line ....fuh respect

yup, the right fans are important. as we waterhead uses the most fans, initial purchases for them need to be made base on well inform data to suit ur theme/budget/estimated performance etc. the perfomance gain between fans are ridiulous, so get it right the 1st time, and ill inform 1st purchases may result in u purchasing a new set of fans for your 2 x quad rad push+pull monster config

one thing i like bout the f12 is thats it dirt cheap....Rm20 bucks even cheper than the good ol'yate imho.

hehe san aces and panaflo ftw...the spes and reviews on these 38's are great ! with an added fc of course

This post has been edited by vladtheimpaler: Nov 16 2010, 09:33 AM