Better get ori drive shaft...
Ask sifoo ah walker how many times he go change laisap in one year...
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V22, For all those SagaIswara Enthusiast
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V22, For all those SagaIswara Enthusiast
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Dec 4 2010, 05:47 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
Better get ori drive shaft...
Ask sifoo ah walker how many times he go change laisap in one year... |
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Dec 7 2010, 04:11 AM
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#62
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
QUOTE(AhNeh @ Dec 5 2010, 03:51 PM) Hi all, wanna ask anyone have extra SAGA LMST 04 Rim cover and wanna sell ? I might have one for you...i nid 1 , cause sudah fly away. plz guide me if im in the wrong section. Thanks ![]() I sell all four for RM20 Is it ok? Added on December 7, 2010, 4:11 am QUOTE(fool1988 @ Dec 6 2010, 06:15 PM) My LMST is also same. Normally left 2 bar and u drive for awhile it will appear warning light.. 2 bar = 10 liters left on our car...I actually don know how far can it go before the car run out of fuel, hopping to know too. That means around 100-120km depends on your FC This post has been edited by Notoriez: Dec 7 2010, 04:11 AM |
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Dec 9 2010, 08:36 AM
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#63
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
QUOTE(fool1988 @ Dec 7 2010, 09:21 PM) 10 Liters mean after 10Liter oil habis...car terus stop? 10 liters trus habis...it starts blinking when you only have 5 liters left...Or after 10 liter..light baru blinking.. Added on December 7, 2010, 9:22 pmBtw..Someone told me that drive shaft if got problem wanna change, better change both together..else..new drive shaft+old drive shaft might cost the old drive shaft spoil too. Isn't true? And drive shaft is categories by front and behind right? |
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Dec 11 2010, 12:13 AM
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#64
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
QUOTE(anderson1188 @ Dec 10 2010, 03:02 PM) well to start of, any suggestions on spring and absorber recommendation for smooth but stiffer than stock suspensions ride?? IMP Comfort period. 20% stiffer than normal and can pek corners like nobody business...Seen quite alot of this nonsensical absorber + springs questions lately |
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Dec 11 2010, 11:06 AM
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#65
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
QUOTE(anderson1188 @ Dec 11 2010, 02:14 AM) hmm alright..so everything has to go as a set lo..how to know which spring suit which absorber???paiseh ah kinda noob in this area still.. First thing first. What is your budget? RM500?any idea how much will that cost me??? btw bro,i've tried searching for springs+absorber around the web and even in this thread but everyone has their own say or feedback so i'm hoping those that 'been there done that' could help in generating constructive comment of particular combo..thanks for your point though.. Let's say you have RM900 to spend on absorber and springs then i suggest to go for IMP Comfort (20% stiffer) which im using right now. Im LOVE it so much coz not only it feels like stock absorber but still acceptable @ taking corners. But better if pair it with GAB springs which is much stiffer than IMP springs which is soft for better handling. My current setup is IMP Comfort + IMP Springs. If below RM500 budget. Then no choice but go for ProRide or Kayaba. From what i heard, Pro Ride not bad also. If more than RM1k, you have more choices such as HWL and Titan |
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Dec 12 2010, 10:31 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
Both total nearly RM500
Gonna be my next toy |
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Dec 15 2010, 09:03 AM
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#67
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2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
QUOTE(evoluzzion @ Dec 14 2010, 02:45 PM) haha.. about my aircond tarak sejuk... not bcoz of fan, or out of gas... compressor sudaa kong maa... not moving at all.. ayooo... Changed to Wira Compressor hehehe....Total cost nearly RM500... Added on December 15, 2010, 9:05 am QUOTE(rozz_1291 @ Dec 14 2010, 08:29 PM) Nope, the main reason is Why they create EFI in the 1st place??? It has nothing to do with how rare, expensive or hard to maintain. Let say during the 60's and 80's they stick with weber carburetor till today, for surely now it won't be facing any of those problem rite??? Someone i heard changed from carb to EFi then now back to Carb...how???And I dun think so I nid explain the differences (pros and cons) between EFI and weber carburetors Added on December 15, 2010, 9:07 am QUOTE(fstrader @ Dec 14 2010, 11:08 PM) Who last time play twin weber ar This post has been edited by Notoriez: Dec 15 2010, 09:07 AM |
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Dec 17 2010, 12:55 AM
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#68
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
Sunday, Genting Sempah
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Dec 19 2010, 07:52 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
Sempah tonite wooooooohooooooo
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Jan 2 2011, 01:57 AM
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#70
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
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Jan 5 2011, 02:02 AM
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#71
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
QUOTE(stasis21 @ Jan 4 2011, 08:02 PM) Hey guys, Rear brake shoe either finished or dust collected is too muchMy saga has a problem, whenever i hit the brake hard it makes this screeching noise, damn loud one It was coming from the front so i checked the pads and the disc but it all seems fine The pads still got alot left. Any one been trough this before? Im currently using Bendix brake Pads... Will Skimming help? thanks in advance I have opend the cap before to change the Bearing. Behind the cap was a 32mm nut Tried to open the nut but it was damn tough. So i send to the Mechanic instead |
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Jan 8 2011, 01:28 AM
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#72
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
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Jan 8 2011, 11:42 AM
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#73
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
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Jan 8 2011, 05:23 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
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Jan 14 2011, 12:00 AM
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#75
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
QUOTE(cadmus @ Jan 12 2011, 02:45 PM) Hi All, Sinkalan Mechanic...I currently driving the proton saga Iswara 2007( orange color model). 3 weeks ago, i had some issue when i drove my car. It jerks terribly when it hits 3000rpm at 2nd gear. Since its near the time for me to do my periodic maintenance, i send for maintenance. During the check up, the mechanics found out that its time to change my spark plug as it's filled with carbons deposit. At the same time, i also change the cable for the spark plug and did some maintenance here and there. Then the mechanic asked me, what petrol i'm using. I told him I'm using Ron95 with some adjustment to the timing. He told me that my car, according to the manual, it is suppose to run on Ron 97. And when i change to Ron 95, the maintenance cost over long period will be higher as the Ron95 will effects my car performance and conditions (i think he is talking about Ron 95 is not good for the engine etc..). He suggested i changed back to Ron 97. I did do that but the petrol price recently jsut hike up again. So, my question is that, 1)Does using ron 95 really that bad for the engine? I'm not sure how to compare the cost wise for different grade of fuel but basicly, 2) is it true when he says the maintenance cost will be higher and its much more worthwhile to pay for the higher fuel cost for Ron97? Appreciate your comments. If you understand the basics of IGNITION TIMING then you know what's best for your car. Higher RON = ignition timing can go higher hence car feel more powderful hence no need to press so hard on the pedal. For our 4G1s engine, no matter carbie or MMC efi, ignition timing need to manually adjust. Those modern engines will auto adjust the timing to retard if it senses that the engine experience pinging or knocking. This is to protect your engine internals. That's why performance cars / modded cars with high compression like Swift Sport need to use RON97 for better performance. QUOTE(yewwing @ Jan 12 2011, 08:32 PM) FC might get affected abit if using heavier 15' rims and not forgetting the rotational dimension is a bit more than 14'Better use 13' la to get more power + better FC QUOTE(cadmus @ Jan 13 2011, 11:07 AM) T_T sudah pump 3 times full tank for Ron 97. i guess i will change back. No need to find la. Same only. Using RON97 or higher is USELESS if never kacau the ignition timing. For those who tune their cam timing to advance also can use higher RON so that their ignition timing no need to retard so much else it will feel very sluggish on low end but ooompppphh comes on mid and high rev range Anyway, in that case, is the process below proper? 1)pump Full tank Ron95 when low fuel and the fuel light is blinking 2)Use the car for a few days. 3)Go for tuning the ignition timing. On a side note, i was searching for the fuel consumption (KM/Litre) on Ron95 vs Ron97 for this iswara. Didn't manage to find yet. Any help on this? Thanks a lot~! |
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Jan 20 2011, 09:52 PM
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#76
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Senior Member
2,499 posts Joined: Apr 2005 From: Tyneside |
QUOTE(fool1988 @ Jan 18 2011, 11:22 PM) It normally helps you to have better FC when switch on the aircond. So better FC when on A/C.And i have the same FC no matter if i use or don't use LCP coz 'stock' carbie punya pasal Added on January 20, 2011, 9:57 pm QUOTE(Chan320 @ Jan 20 2011, 03:59 PM) yea,the one which can be plug to FICD one I DIY'ed my vacuum meter there as well. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « which hose bro,cause there are alot of double hose under the crab.is it to the left or the right? This post has been edited by Notoriez: Jan 20 2011, 09:57 PM |
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