CDI got very good effect. It doesnt matter the engine can go beyond 10krpm or not. It boosts a lot of power even from midrange onwards. However, the condition is you have to get the engine tuned very well mechanically first. Carburetor, exhaust pipe and porting changes are part of mechanical tuning. Engine size doesnt matter here.

nvr see the max BHP and torque figure. It is a big mistake. they only start dyno from 7k to 12k rpm, and the power above 9k starts to drop. Usually dyno will do from 3k or 4k up to top rev, I guess they have something to hide below 7k rpm.

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Added on June 23, 2010, 11:26 pmOh, i saw something. BHP and torque below 7500rpm drops like shi*T. They are using high duration race cam to push the horsepower !!! low and mid range sux, this bike is bad to ride on street.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Jun 23 2010, 11:26 PM

yes you are correct!

btw, I managed to get 4 used Firestorm spark booster. If any of you are interested, I can arrange a session so that my friend can help you guys install. It is used 2 months, and if not mistaken, it is 2 years warranty (I need to double check this). In addition, it is money back guarantee, as in, if you think it doesnt give you a boost in power, u can return the goods and i'll pay u back the $.

Yet to confirm the price. My guess is above RM100.

it looks bigger and tougher than stromberg. (Made in Japan)
and I m very busy lately. Perhaps you can check out with him when you are free.


Most likely my LC will be ready around mid of July, you guys go ahead with the TT first.

once my bike is ready, I'll update you guys here.

do you trust his words?



a powerful yet reliable engine can be done, as long as you got enough cash.

change cam sure will risk engine if the mechanic dunno how to set your air-fuel.

If you want a reliable engine with great performance, basically u can't modify the current LC engine. You need to change the whole engine. Its because the original engine parts can only tahan small amount of horsepower.

Cubprix bikes can produce great horsepower with small engine CC because the whole engine is rebuilt. From what I know, the engine itself cost more than RM10k, and able to tahan a few races only if we always go all out. I assume it can last pretty long if you are just riding normally on the street.

160kph on LC meter can be done, but 160kph on GPS is a big risk, I'd rather change to superbike.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Jun 24 2010, 11:40 AM

130kph should b fine, 130++ is pretty tough.
I would suggest max of 120kph on GPS (150kph on LC meter) to have better reliability and street riding feel.

1) 24mm uma racing carburetor
2) custom pipe that I m selling
3) racing ignition coil
4) spark plug booster
5) BRT dual band CDI
6) remove air filter
7) 15-37 415 SSS sprocket and chain set


when r u installing?

from my experience in dyno tuning, the bike is sweet once it is above 6500rpm. From stand still 1st gear pickup, stock LC should can win, 2nd gear onwards standard sure mampus la

I noticed RX-Z carburetor is 26mm. It should be alright for 135cc block and piston, but low rpm cannot suddenly pulas throttle else engine burps. Ignition coil I only tried one brand, but this brand is no longer in market. Perhaps you can try others and review to us here.

Mitsubishi ignition coil. Most of the shop got sell racing ignition coil, u can ask them.
If you can find anything second hand in good condition, just go for it. I'd recommend 24mm if u use your bike mainly for daily ride --> save petrol and better low end torque.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Jun 25 2010, 01:14 PM

some ppl simply do, some ppl really gone through R&D. but bigger power/torque definitely produce greater heat.
porting the carburetor is not recommended, unless u r a pro in carb. If the port size is bigger, but the supporting fuel system is too limited, end up the air-fuel too lean and causing overheat.


yes, he is right. to me my carburetor has too much fuel, taking off the air filter gives better result, but take out airbox will become slightly lean.

basically polishing is useless, just for show. when carbon sticks on shiny surface, what's the difference with none polished?

check your tappet and valve

How much throttle do you open?

most likely 2 more weeks, but I need another week to re-break-in again with new piston.

standard FZ150 is slow, even my modified 135cc block can accelerate faster. But I think this FZ is slightly modified.


HLY can set tappet.


haha, making low end torque has no fun, bcoz the bike sure kenot go more than 6k. Midrange is 4-stroke strength, its better to play there, so u got a very good powerband from mid-low to mid-high.

*side story: today js finished tuning a MIVEC with a custom porting work. Spent 3 days to play around with the exhaust pipe setting and power commander (piggyback ECU tuning). Teluk Bahang short burst from U-turn can reach 100kph+

its my fren's MIVEC. on dyno is 150BHP++, and near 170N-m torque, and after fine tuning on street, I think the figure is more.

oh ya, before that, the torque is about 163N-m only, immediately shoot up after using firestorm booster.

its good when tuned correctly. original lose to VTEC, need real good mod skill. mechanical is done by my friend (who sell firestorm).

since u r interested, before custom porting, custom exhaust, ECU tuning and fire-storm, the car only has 132BHP and 148N-m torque. see the difference?

porting is the most important, and exhaust must be able to match. it can either make ur powerband godlike or screw up the whole thing. My friend is real pro in it. He is very detail, and personally I found his porting and exhaust tuning is slightly better than Bee Hock.


Today not yet drift, just 70% familiar with that car. But it is fast enough liao