Engine Oil Reviews, What engine oil have u used so far
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 Aug 31 2012, 07:21 PM
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#21
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory 
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Being quite bored and a member of SAE has it's perks.
For all you fuel saving nutters out there; Hydraulic Fluid Viscosity Selection for Improved Fuel Economy http://papers.sae.org/2009-01-2845/ And before anyone asks. Don't be cheap, buy it. |
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Sep 7 2012, 06:40 PM
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#22
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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I service my car yesterday. Can't feel any difference. Except the brakes, which I overhauled except for the calipers, because Imma waiting for them to come.
My butt dyno rosak gua. |
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Sep 8 2012, 07:34 AM
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#23
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 7 2012, 09:16 PM) aint that a pity Mai butt dyno out of calibration gua.  That only means one thing. Time for moar powar! 500 WHP here I come! |
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Sep 14 2012, 07:17 PM
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#24
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(SurFerZ @ Sep 13 2012, 01:24 PM) Ahh i get what you mean..guess i've got some research to do then, what sort of other "boutique"/non -mainstream engine oil brands are you referring to?looking for those which is able to push till around 5-7.5k km.. Most oils will to 5k to 7500 kilometers easily. Anything above 10000 would be considered "Extended" and would require something different. If you have the cash to splash and want the highest ester content possible; - Motul 300V High RPM - RedLine 0W-20 A step lower - Royal Purple XPR 0W-20 - Torco SR-5 Just remember that the filter is just as important as the oil. |
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Nov 23 2013, 07:11 AM
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#25
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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Just refilled with the same Motul 300V. Car runs amazingly well although the fact it is a race oil means that I have to change every 5000 to 7500kms or else the engine starts getting obnoxious.
The lack of dispersants and detergents is obvious as the engine's head isstarting to look a bit naff. Might have to run more detergent and a flush. It is a good oil that will take HTHS beating like no other but it will not keep and engine clean. Might have to run a detergent heavy oil for my next oil change. My housemate is running on Liquimoly in an SR20DE. Seems fine to drive so far. I might use of their engine cleaning products to brighten up the engine in the mean time. |
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Mar 15 2014, 02:57 PM
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#26
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 14 2014, 11:11 PM) empire23 The R34 is being sent to the repairs as it was stolen and the cops have recovered it. I'll service it after it gets fixed.bro, you still running mainly on RP XPR and Motul 300v's? how was the UOA for the sprint w15's? tried out Torco's SR5 before? particularly the new SR5r's? any other EO that you've tried/recommend? what other MT oils you've tried? so far the red line MTL is serving me well and i just actually saw your comment on the MT90 some years ago being better than the motul. other gear oils you've got your hands on? The Evo X is using the 10W-30 300V Power Race because the 0W-20 High RPM gives a lower TBN for the same duration. The differential and transfer case use Motul Gear Competition 75W-140 and I can't find any fault in operation. The Ducati Monster is using a 50/50 mix of Redline 10W-40 and 20W-50 Motorcycle oil. The performance isn't as crisp as the 300V but the performance doesn't drop off after 4 months unlike the 300V. Have not tried out Torco but after I get my BMW I might try out a few new things. As I got a new job and work 2 weeks on and 2 weeks off I mostly drive the company Hilux these days lol  |
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Mar 16 2014, 02:35 PM
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#27
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 16 2014, 02:32 AM) thanks for the reply bro The Evo manual GB should be vastly different because it is designed to mate to the SAWC transfer case for 4 wheel drive. I believe it also has increased synchros, larger baulk rings and so forth to meet the needs of the Evo. and glad to hear that you managed to find your stolen car. btw how different is the evo x manual gearbox compared to the lancer/inspira's F5MBB 5 speed manual? the service manual did specified 75w80 which was a pain to find, and not to mention there's concerns on the soft/yellow metals of the synchros do you think using GL5/GL6 lubes with EP additives be a concern on the synchros? at the moment i'm on the redline MTL with lubegard manual additive, shifts were much smoother than it was on the stock loaded lubricant. however i have to wonder if our hotter weather, and/or the lubegard additive is possible to worsen an already potential damage/defect of the gear box (namely some weird potential "geabox whine" that some follks have help identified.) perhaps you can help fill in some guesswork/speculations as to what the actual problem might be? » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « has to be over 160kph, intermittent, doesn't matter what rpm at 4th/5th gear (lil hard for 3rd to go at that speed without fuel cutting) wheel bearing was excluded because majority of opinion is that it should be very apparent at 60-80kph onwards and doesn't require 160kph Proton claims (or bullshit) it's the wind noise generated by the underside body panels/covers/heat shields etc, regardless, getting them to replace the gearbox will be no easy feat. So if let's say it is the geabox problem (supposedly the input shaft having defect/tolerance problem?) would using other gear box lubricant help fix/mask the issue? from what i gathered, it's impossible as that's the part connecting to the engine and there's no way for regular service lubricants to affect it in any way. for the 300v on your bike's case, mainly due to the lack of detergents due to it being a race oil? what's your take on such EO going through 10k km/6 month on a *for the most part* weekend ride 4b10 engine? interesting job btw I own an Evo X MR thus mine comes with the German built DCT unit by Getrag. Usually use Castrol Transmax Dual or Pentosin FFL-4 for it. I wouldn't add any additives to any gear oil as the package is already pretty tailored to the duty at hand to meet specification. My issue usually with additives is that they may or may not match the chemical composition and lifetime of the oil they're added into. Making performance slightly iffy and inconsistent. If you can get an oil to match your conditions, pay the extra coin up front. If you're getting a whine above 160kmph and it doesn't matter at what RPM I would say that it might be the driven part of the driveline (eg; CV joints/axles/output shaft/outshaft bearings). It might still be the input shaft but then again the whine would change if you were to switch gears or engage/disengage the clutch. Usually for whinny or crunching trannies I'd just use the Redline Shockproof to cover it up and it goes fine. The effect may vary though. Worked on my Nissan and many other SAU members rides without issue. 300V on a weekender should be fine. I usually trash my bike's tranny really hard in many attempts to wheelie everywhere and since bike oil doubles as transmission and engine oil, it is somewhat expected that the EO life isn't very long in it. My job isn't really interesting. But it gets me a lot of time tuning engines and working with gears and hydraulics for the OnG industry. Definitely a lot more boring than my last gig. |
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Mar 16 2014, 06:56 PM
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#28
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 16 2014, 06:25 PM) supposedly the larger/increased synchros would probably be using non soft/yellow metals (brass, copper etc) so using GL5/6 gear oils with higher EP additives etc would not have increased corrosion effect? Well it is up to you to figure if the increased corrosion is worth the better drive. To me at least, baulk rings were cheaper than gear sets so going for GL-6 type spec was a no brainer. But mind you I supervise a team of experienced diesel fitters, mechanics and automotive machinists, so labour is on the cheap side if you buy them a slab of piss considering the synchro/GL4 requirements and very thin viscosity, would you consider the supposedly better (although the added EP additives may be a double edge sword against the soft/yellow metals as mentioned) GL5/6 higher performance/full synthetic gear oils? currently i have this gathered/summarized: - AMSOIL lowest also 90 - same for chemlube full ester based synthetics - same goes for eneos GL5 synchromesh compatible gear oil - royal purple max gear lighest is 90, and this is a bit interesting: http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-cont..._Synchromax.pdf xw40 similar to ATF specifications Interesting on the French' gearboxes/lubes - Total: http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/fic...lang_1/1205.pdf not much info on this, total website is so shit i rage browsing it. - ELF: ah reminds me of the proton default lubricant (are they still using it?) - TRANSELF NFJ 75W-80 http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/content/NT0000C9DA.pdf http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/content/NT0000E0F2.pdf http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/australia...=EN&$#E3B6 really bad site design: http://www.new-elf.com/ summary of suitable Gear oil for the F5MBB Aisin 5 speed manual Transmission:
references: Redline http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/te...duct%20Data.pdf http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/te...MSDS%203-13.pdf http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/te...Tech%20Info.pdf Motul http://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1328624012 Liqui Moly http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...voiladb=web.nsf Pennzoil http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/uploads...Trans-Fluid.pdf Torco http://www.torcousa.com/technology/MTF.pdf any comments on the above gathered finding/data? on the additive end, i've had very positive results for the lubegard platinum for atf, and quite similarly for the manual gear supplement. though i'm not too sure if the lube/additives may potentially further worsen the situation i am facing (doesn't seem like it, noise levels same, still very intermittent and din't seem to have increased rate of occurrence. although yes, i do agree that if i have the money i am probably would be better off going for full synthetics with better base stocks and additive package to have much more consistent performance  i think i may just go for that on my next ATF change  (thinking Torco ATF) thanks for the info btw, i'll try to pay attention to the whine and purposely disengage the clutch the moment it appears and see if it disappears. if it does, i guess we can confirm it's the input shaft? If it is the input shaft, there is nothing (eg: change thicker/EP/shock proof lubes) we can do besides changing the entire gearbox? (i doubt proton will repair, most likely replace 1 to 1 still really new on manual trannies so bear with me a bit: does the gear oil lubricates either of the input/output shafts? good info on the 300v, really eager to give it a try lol... for a bit i was thinking, as i already spent so much for additives (liqui moly ceratec, that nano extreme ws2 thingy), i actually spent more than what SR5r/300v would have cost... like, those would be better than amsoil signature series i'd reckon LOL! well regardless of the job's interest, money is money. and money helps fund car modding/maintenance  I generally don't want to experiment too much these days and thus go for a "fit for purpose" oil and then assess it from there, but don't let that stop you from experimenting though. Generally if you engage the clutch while moving, your input shaft will receive no power, thus you can generally figure out if it is an input or output issue. If the input shaft is the issue the first things I'd look at are; 1) Main bearing 2) Thrust bearing 3) Tolerances 4) Wear 5) Lubrication You can get to most of these when you replace the clutch. The lubrication for spline the input shaft is usually moly grease that is applied during tranny assembly where the clutch meets the spline. Also a bad alignment of the clutch can cause such issues as well. |
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Aug 3 2014, 10:15 AM
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#29
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 2 2014, 04:05 PM) so it doesn't derail that tire thread XD I have had the displeasure of trying the MOS2 anti friction treatment with 300V and the car ran subpar. Only after about 2 oil changes did it return to its usual rev happy attitude. From what I figured, it messed with the Ester oil's properties.that thing sure beats amsoil SS by quite a long shot, however i'm not sure if i can objectively evaluate as i had ceratec and nanoextreme ws2 in just on the first service... (1k km) assuming the additives last, and both amsoil/300v benefited from them, it still made quite a difference especially keeping the rpm's above optimal power band (around >4k rpm) and for some reason the slight change in engine note gives off a LOT of urge to high rev the car  i'd have gotten 0w15, however i found out that Motul Malaysia does not officially carry 0w15, so that's that what debacle was it again? been a while since your last posts after all I usually stick with a lighter 300V if I'm going to do a lot of daily driving. For sustained trackwork I'll go for the heavier 5w-30. My engine seems fine so far. Actually due for a servicing this Monday. Also going to change the front and rear diff + transfer case oils as well. |
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Aug 3 2014, 08:16 PM
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#30
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 3 2014, 05:33 PM) bro, does this means that my 300v is not at it's full potential due to the additives messing with it? Not sure. But my car didn't like it. And it usually takes a minimum of 1 oil change after an original change without additives to feel the difference. the idea that an engine oil can give me so much fun... crazy lol btw from BITOG, they are seeing pretty decent TBN even from racing oil like 300v; considering Malaysia SC do not practice longer OCI anyways, the TBN should be able to last 10k km/6 months without issues. would you still think a regular API SN/high detergent EO would be needed to alternate in between 300v's to keep the engine in clean/pristine conditions? I've run 300V for 15000km without issue. So 10000km should be fine. As for running a oil in between, I've toyed with the idea of using a strong detergent based oil for 1000km pre-change with the 300V and maybe throwing in some engine flush right before it as well. But so far due to time constraints haven't gone ahead. I just pour and service with 300V all the way. |
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Aug 4 2014, 06:44 AM
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#31
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 3 2014, 08:36 PM) i see, much thanks for the inputs bro Before I used Castrol, I used Penrite SIN, which is a locally made oil here in Australia. btw just to clarify on the "debacle" you mentioned, basically your mech poured in castrol and it f***ed up the engine, and you've been on 300v all the time ever since and nothing else? if so, is it because there really isn't anything else that generated interest (eg: maybe not good enough) or 300v is just that good of an EO? btw, something that's nagging on the top of my head and i just couldn't find someone to really share it since there isn't really that many 300v users (even the stock i gotten was an early year 2013 manufacturing date printed stock rofl) - what do you think on 300v's fragrance? something that "just happened" (be it the additives or ester properties) or the French just have a thing with good smelling EO's? http://www.penriteoil.com.au/ It's a good product (now called 10Tenths) is a PAO mixed with Ester base (Group 4 and 5). After that the local mech took the liberty of using Castrol Edge with then gave me whine noises upon acceleration and stronger ticking noises from the valves, as I left post service. I'm generally hedging that the turbocharger didn't like it one bit. Other than that you might want to try Redline. I thought their MTF was shit in my old Skyline. But it does well in my motorcycle, much better than the original OEM Shell stuff in my Ducati. I have never tried it in my Evo's box as it is a DCT tranny which limits my choices to Motul DCTF, Pentosin FFL, Castrol Transmax Dual and Ravenol. Esters usually have a good smell to them, you'll realize the 4T 300V oil for a motorcycle smells even better as the ester package is even more concentrated. |
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Aug 5 2014, 09:19 AM
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#32
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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While on the topic of oils of course, does anyone have a grease or oil they prefer for stuff like seal conditioning, doors, hinges and so on?
I tend to lay down a light layer of Dupont Krytox on most friction points in my vehicles use Krytox oil for unpainted exposed plastic surfaces to form a surface barrier. But most of it is used on the door hinges, links and the rubber seals in the form of Krytox grease. The upside of this grease is that it is extremely hard to remove, thus it keeps any ruberry parts supple and soft for a freakishly long time. |
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Aug 5 2014, 09:30 AM
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#33
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
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QUOTE(izso @ Aug 5 2014, 09:22 AM) Interesting, it's called "Dupont Krytox"? Is it an automotive grease? It's an aerospace lubricant designed for use in extremely high temperatures, vacuums and other harsh conditions like in jet turbines. It is a PTFE based lubricant and generally works well with high performance seals like Kalrez and Viton.I started using it in my pistols and using a normal lubricant like REMOIL I had to reoil the hangun after every weekly outing, but using Krytox I only needed to do it once every six months. Considering the pressures can reach about 42000 PSI, it stood up pretty well. So then I thought, why not use this on the car? And the rest is history. You can also use the lighter grades as a leather oil. |
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