my fren serviced at toyota center. they using mineral based xW30..toyota oil

my estima, wish, myvi etc also running with different brand of fully synthetic engine oil... i dun see the problems at all

even at the same level of grade, i do believe the oil quality for mineral,semi and fully is different.

if u r driving an old car wit FS, then it may consider a waste of money.

if u r driving a newer gen of vehicles and running wit mineral oil, i think you are abusing it

different ppl different though bro...maybe u prefer non-fs

but i only stick to fs.... all my trans/axle fluid are wit synthetic...nothing is mineral based

but of coz, it all depends on what car you are driving to decide what engine oil to use. i.e i dun see a point for you to use FS oil that cost over rm200 in an old iswara....which not so applicable...and if u r driving vellfire/estima/alphard....i dun think u will use mineral oil to the engine also.

as i refer bc to my vehicle recommendation for engine oil..its written : " it is essential to choose the correct grade, quality and viscosity engine oil to ensure satisfactory engine life and performance"..."if the recommended oil is not available, other oil may be used, however, some performance loss may be noticed"

This post has been edited by huakenny: May 7 2012, 04:13 PM

it written fully syn mobil 1...just i didnt state it out..as that only for my car model... Mobil 1 0w40 (100% Synthetic based)....of coz, this one i dig from my Nissan GTR R35 manual

if 0w40 not available, then Mobil 1 10w40 (100% synthetic based) may be used

that y i said....it all depends on car manufacturer.....this is not a Ferrari or Lambo as u said, but a normal JDM Sports car. it required FS too

jezz12,

running in wat car bro?

confession,

if u just bought the car. its good to sent it to your mech to check and do a routine maintenance...so you will know ur car condition.

proton normally 4Litres +/- only

old car dun need go proton...go to a mech that you familiar, or ask your fren to recommend(if any)...

if i am u..i will

flush n replace new engine oil
flush n replace new gear/transmission fluid
flush n replace power steering fluid
replace timing belt(full set with water pump) - for safety reason better do this
fan belts - to check
flush n replace new brake fluid
if brake disc rotor n pads still ok, then can use back
if manual, flush n replace clutch fluid
flush n replace radiator with better coolant
clean n service battery terminal for better contact

This post has been edited by huakenny: May 10 2012, 09:49 PM

yea man....3000-5000km i change all fluids....lolz

flush n replace new engine oil
cheapo oil to flush rm40-50 maybe, semi syn engine oil rm80-120

flush n replace new gear/transmission fluid
budget rm100-150

flush n replace power steering fluid
budget rm60

replace timing belt(full set with water pump) - for safety reason better do this
rm300 i think

fan belts - to check
check F.O.C if change also rm50-70 i think

flush n replace new brake fluid
budget rm60

if brake disc rotor n pads still ok, then can use back

if manual, flush n replace clutch fluid
rm40 i think

flush n replace radiator with better coolant
rm50 around

clean n service battery terminal for better contact
FREE

most of the time i use only fully syn, from trusted brand

if ur own car, u can mix...my own car, i also mix.

im using m7 super syn 5w30 in fairlady n perodua...so far so good

350z

370z not suitable to use this oil grade, the engine oil temp is too high...at least xW40 or above

if money is not a problem for u to use torco..why not

on what car bro?

sr-1 racing only got 10w30,10w40,20w50...retail per quart should be rm65-70 rite....

10w40 should be good, if u need a seller number let me know. i can pass the contact to you.

thanks

or u can try Genuine Blitz S2 5w40 fully syn..im using in on few of my cars...good. 4L pack rm180-200 only

the best way is to try out the oil itself...im trying different brand of engine oil to my car every oil change....

early june...watsup>? wanna spend me yamcha with ur engine oil?

depends where it leaks, change the leaking part is the best way

changing to thicker engine oil just to slow down the leak, but it still leaks