Couldnt find any closest translation of that Chinese news article.
Not sure whether this is of any use.....
http://www.mmail.com.my/content/39430-surr...animals-or-else
Turtles, Terrapins and Tortoises V5
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 Jun 12 2010, 12:32 AM
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Jun 20 2010, 11:27 PM
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#2
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Hi, just want to share...
I have mine having the same symptons (closed & swollen eyes, bubbling, not eating) about 3 months ago. At that time, that turtle has been with me for 8 months (from a hatchling of 1.5" size).   I soaked s/he in slightly salted lukewarm water twice a day, for about 10mins each time. I kept the basking light on to maintain the temperature. Took about a week for the eyes to be back to normal, then the appetite came back. Took longer (almost a month) for the bubbling to be totally gone. I am noob too, not sure whether those were the correct things I should do. But, somehow I managed to get s/he recovered. Thank god s/he is back to normal now. And, hope your little will recover soon. P/S: And as camillenoir advised, you must quarantine the sick one from others so that your other guys will not get infected. |
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Jun 21 2010, 12:21 AM
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#3
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Quoted from redearslider.com
Various types of injury or infection can cause a turtle's eyes to be closed or swollen. Dehydration, ear abscesses, chlorine/chloramines, scratches, bacterial infection, trauma, poor water conditions and poor nutrition are readily causes. Furthermore, this is a potential symptom of a Vitamin A deficiency (Hypovitaminosis A), metabolic bone disease or respiratory infection (RI). The sensitivity of the eyes allows it to be an early detector of other inflictions. All of these conditions can be serious and unrelated; offering Vitamin A will have no effect if RI is present. The delay in proper treatment may even cause greater harm. Consider swollen eyes as a symptom of a greater disease. If other symptoms exist or form, then immediate medical care is required. If your RES consistently rub their eyes after a water change, you may suspect high levels of chlorine or chloramines. The use of an aquarium water conditioner may help ease the situation. Home remedies for closed eyes may be small amounts of Vitamin A drops or the application of cod-liver oil onto the eyelids. Try to see if the turtle will open its eyes when dry docked. It is, however, best to seek the help of a qualified vet if there are other symptoms, the condition does not improve, or there is no explanation for the cause. Turtles may refuse to eat if they are unable to see. This can cause an onset of other serious medical conditions. I once read that if bacterial infection is the cause, then can use salt to help fighting the infection as salt has disinfecting ability. If you can read chinese, here is some info.... http://gui.abang.com/od/siyang/a/baiyanbing.htm As for the bubbling, it could be the onset of RI (Respiratory Infections). Reading from redearslider.com Respiratory infections (RI) are common and deadly illnesses that affect many captive turtles. It is a contagious illness that can spread to other turtles and often requires medical attention. Improper basking and water temperatures as well as exposure to drafts and breezes greatly increase the chances of contracting RI. There are varying degrees of RI, including pneumonia, and the symptoms may also differ. The most obvious symptom that can signal RI is if a RES is listing. Listing refers to swimming in an irregular manner, such as swimming in circles, unevenly or lopsided and even swimming upside down. Listing is caused by fluid in the lungs; more specifically, if fluid exists in one lung or there is more fluid in one lung than the other. Your RES requires immediate veterinary assistance if they exhibit this symptom. They may have RI but not this symptom. The sooner that they are examined, the better the chance they can recover. They would likely be administered Baytril or another anti-infective. A vitamin injection, antibiotics and an x-ray may also be used or suggested. There are other possible symptoms that can signal RI, especially if they occur frequently. These may include breathing difficulties, coughing, sneezing, open mouth, yawning, wheezing, lethargy, loss of appetite, mucus from the nose (runny) or mouth and bubbling at the nose and mouth. If your RES exhibits any of these symptoms, then raising temperatures, quarantine and a water change would be the immediate actions to take. Ambient air temperature and water temperature should be raised 10 degrees F. Eliminate any drafts and cold air around the tank. Pneumonia may develop which in many cases is fatal. If your RES continues to exhibit a symptom or develops more, then consult with a qualified vet immediately. If you dont have basking lighting, then you better find ways to raise the water temperature. Hope the above helps. Good luck. P/S: I find this useful...... http://www.redearslider.com/index_health.html This post has been edited by vivtch: Jun 21 2010, 12:24 AM |
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Jun 21 2010, 09:11 AM
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#4
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If you dont have basking light to regulate the right temperature and have very little water, it maybe hard to maintain the right air and water temperature. You may need to change the water more often to maintain the desired water temperature. Avoid air-conditioned places. Just make sure it is kept warm but be careful not to 'cook' it.
Your the other turtle, it seems to me that it has the onset of RI symptons too. Do you keep them indoor? Any access to natural sunlight? I would place mine outside for some natural sunlight. Of course, I keep an eye on them to make sure it is not too hot till they are cooked. |
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Jun 21 2010, 11:13 AM
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#5
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[quote=camillenoir,Jun 21 2010, 10:29 AM]
get a submersible heater. saves the trouble of preparing warm water, plus the temperature is regulated all the time. I dont use submersible heater, actually how does it work? I keep my RES tank in the balcony (live in condo  ) 24/7 with direct sunlight on part of the tank, plenty of water so that I dont boil turtles soup. If I have to bring them indoor, then I have my basking lamp.With little/shallow water (for sick turtles), will it be overheated? Or it works regardless of water volume? Thanks. |
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Jun 21 2010, 01:32 PM
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#6
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Thank you very much.
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Jun 23 2010, 04:34 PM
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#7
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QUOTE(g r a p e k e y @ Jun 22 2010, 11:22 PM) hello all.. my baby turtle is still in very weak condition If I were you, I would find ways to treat the symptons, one of them is to get the living conditions correct, first. I would not keep finding ways to force feed her. It is not saying that eating is not important. If she recovered, then she would start eating again on her own. If she was still ill, eventhough you force feed, she might not digest what you gave. .. pls help me everyone I went to a few pets store around my house and they do not know how to treat her. She's not eating and for the past 2 days, I've been force feeding her but today, she's totally not allowing me to open up her mouth .. Middle of the night last night, I woke up to check on her condition but she's still not moving much and is getting weaker by the day ~!! how how ?? .. pls help Have you tried what we suggested to you? Raising the temperature being the most important. If her symptons were not treated and not improving, chances are she might be dying soon. |
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Jun 23 2010, 09:37 PM
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#8
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R.I.P to your little one
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Sep 2 2010, 10:44 PM
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#9
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Hi, I have a question, would like to seek advice here.
I keep 2 RES, they are just 3.5” and 2.7”. Always read that should provide a mininum L x W x D of water for them. My concern is the depth of the water. Is there a maximum depth I should beware of? I plan for a new tank with 22” depth of water. It may not be even enough when they grow to adult. But for now, it is too deep for them? Thank you. |
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Sep 2 2010, 11:33 PM
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#10
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QUOTE(camillenoir @ Sep 2 2010, 10:46 PM) if you're concerned, the thing you can do is set the water depth to say like 10" for the moment and gradually increase the depth as they grow. btw, how high is the tank? I live in condominium, will place the tank at the balcony to have natural sunlight. At the basking area, I will create a nesting area too (just in case they are females, not that I want to breed RES, just dont want them to have health problem later on). Read that should provide a soil depth of equivalent to their SCL, is that the minimum depth? Does the whole arrangement/set-up sound ok? Thank you. |
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Sep 3 2010, 06:56 AM
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#11
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QUOTE(camillenoir @ Sep 3 2010, 01:02 AM) setup sound quite nice, just make sure that the sunlight goes straight to the basking area, not through aquarium glass. The DIY basking area will have 3 sides of plastic panels to confine them in, one side open into the water, top will be mesh cover. Sunlight shine in from the direction of the water side.you can ditch the soil, just a dry basking area would be fine. in case they are females, 4' tank would be too small for them (after many many years) Since I live in condo and the balcony size is limited, that is the max size of tank I can fit in Maybe I should start planning for a landed property with garden area where I can dig a pond  If I do away with the planned nesting area, what if they are females? What should I do in future in case they are gravid? I have also ordered Eheim 2217 canister filter. Will it be enough for the time being since they are still small (thus producing lesser waste comparing when they are bigger)? Or should I order another one straight away and have 2 filters running at the same time? Is there any place in Melaka that has TTT for public visiting? Something like zoo? Not even sure whether zoos definitely have kept TTT since many years never go to zoos  Will be down to Melaka this weekend with my daughters for weekend trip.Thank you. |
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Sep 3 2010, 06:17 PM
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#12
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QUOTE(camillenoir @ Sep 3 2010, 04:34 PM) it would take years before they'd be potentially gravid. by that time, the current tank would to too small for them. so putting soil now would only defeat the purpose and put extra cleaning burden for you (and your filtration system, as soil would gradually be moved into the water anyway.) Thanks a lot, cami, for all your advices and info. Is there anything else I should beware of or miss out?Eheim 2217 is recommended for tanks up to 600 liters. since your water volume would be less than 540 litres (minus the 2" space between actual water level and max. tank height) i'd say that 1 filter would be fine for years if the filter substrate is cleaned on a regular basis. Melaka Zoo has a tortoise garden with several enclosure that house mostly local species and many RES. last time I checked there are Orlitia borneensis, Manouria emys emys, Cuora amboinensis and Hieremys annandalii. Just don't expect them to be labelled correctly (last time I checked they labelled H. annandalii as Cyclemys dentata) and the diet they gave the animals are not to be exemplified. (like feeding M. emys with a staple of ikan kembung  )Butterfly Park has a 8ft(?) high aquarium that houses some local turtles. And hopefully the I. elongata they put in a well last time still survives.  Anyway, most of the animal parks there are in the same vicinity (ayer keroh) so it won't be far to hop on from one place to another. Have a good time there  Guess I better work hard to get them a pond for future |
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Sep 7 2010, 01:36 AM
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#13
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QUOTE(BenSow @ Sep 5 2010, 10:16 PM) Added on September 5, 2010, 10:18 pm wow i missed this post... from wat ive read many many times... RES are born to be superb swimmers so there's not much concern but you have to provide a place where they can stay underwater but their heads can lift out from the water surface to breathe... Added on September 7, 2010, 2:27 amHere are what I saw in Buttery Farm & Reptile Sanctuary Melaka. I actually dont know what species they are (as I know RES only). Some are labelled (labelled correctly or not, dont ask me ), some arent. Sulcata   TBC if I am allowed to post more pics..... This post has been edited by vivtch: Sep 7 2010, 02:27 AM |
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Sep 7 2010, 02:33 AM
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#14
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  Labelled as Manouria emys emys    Many of these. Just wondering are they overfed?  Star tortoise Pity those with bad pyramiding.....sad to look at.   Should be RES, am I right? |
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Sep 7 2010, 02:35 AM
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#15
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     There are four of them, 2 are resting on the floor, the other 2 are "flying" around. I stood there long time just to watch them flying. That's all I saw there. |
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Sep 7 2010, 09:08 AM
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#16
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Thank you thank you, sifu.
The reason I kept thinking they might be overfed is because they look fat.....those excessive flesh squeezing out from legs & butt. Or are they supposed to be like that?    This post has been edited by vivtch: Sep 9 2010, 01:53 AM |
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Sep 9 2010, 01:54 AM
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#17
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Selamat Hari Raya Aidilfitri to our fellow members here who celebrate Hari Raya Aidilfitri and happy holiday to the rest......
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Sep 9 2010, 02:04 AM
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#18
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Just wanna ask whether ok to put those aquarium LED light in the turtle tank.
Not for the turts... it is for me as a viewer...think it looks nice if switch on at night. Will it be dangerous to the turts? Or will it (slightly light up) disturb their sleep (if they are sleeping) if I switch it on at night? |
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Sep 27 2010, 08:57 PM
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#19
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Just wanna ask.....are RES carapace patterns and colours come in great variety?
 Is R1 normal? L1 & R2 - with me for almost 15 months L2 & R1 - just got it yesterday Thanks a lot. |
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Sep 28 2010, 07:31 PM
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#20
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QUOTE(static @ Sep 28 2010, 01:36 PM) The far right one, seems like shell rot/fungus? Why is the color so mouldy? I also a bit worry about this one because the carapace colour is quite light green even greyish with black patches. But it is hard (not soft at all), both carapace and plastron. And those black patches are just pattern, not fungus, not soft spots.  Left one is the one He/she is 6.9cm. That's why I wanna ask whether RES comes with many variations in colour. |
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