This is the thread I was looking for:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=174955

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 14 2010, 09:46 PM

Silencer, ask AL to source the waistcoat buttons for you.

I am in Coffee Bean Cap Square now, and about to get AL to make me a pair of trousers and a shirt.

I was in a certain port town this morning and went to all the tailors there. I come to realise now that only a few tailors in KL practise "fine" tailoring --- the others make stuff for peasants, i.e. farmers.

I've not yet found a better pair of trousers than what AL makes. Also, while Ron has a more sophisticated cut for his shirts, AL's workmanship is sublime and Jermyn Street worthy. People like ISTT, MBT2, and MBT3 (which is located very near to ALT) simply cannot match this level of tailoring.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 15 2010, 05:53 PM

Went to AL just now. To spare himself from having to listen to my Cantonese, he brought out a bag of Jermyn Street stuff (Hilditch & Key, Thyrwhitt, etc.) that a Mat Salleh left to have repaired. He said he will make my shirt like those, and that the collar will NOT be fused. He said he used to make them that way, but that since the introduction of fusing, the shirtmaker complains that no fusing is more work, so he bought a collar machine from Singapore and has been fusing happily since.

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Added on May 15, 2010, 9:17 pmThat bag had some really old shirts. One was from 1989. The collars were all worn, and he was asked to replace them with similar cloth.

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Added on May 15, 2010, 9:26 pmI wouldn't know about the cuffs, I asked for everything to be supersoft the last time.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 15 2010, 09:26 PM

He'll have horn buttons and ermazine lining soon because he will carry the full range of Dugdale cloth and trimmings soon. One of few in Malaysia (Bespoked, of course, is the other. No really, I'm serious) and the first too.

I wonder how many long-legged models have been sent to how many hotel suites to sit atop execs to get this deal to happen...

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 16 2010, 03:29 AM

Gentlemen, I went to the much anticipated afternoon wedding reception today.

Almost every suit was black.

Never wear a tie to a banquet like this. I dipped mine in a very nice sauce. Thankfully, it's only a Daiso number.

People asked me about my pocket square. They wanted to know what it was. "What is that in your pocket?" I had to demonstrate to a table how to stuff a PS a la Michael Alden.

My jacket made an impression on all. "How many suits do you actually have?" I was asked. "Here comes the Man of the Year" said another. "Very nice," said the groom. I did not hear remarks made about the other suits, and almost every male was wearing one.

My jacket did not rumple as much as i would like. It still looks kinda tame.

Thankfully, nobody there reads this thread. I live in fear of someone coming up to me and asking, "Excuse me, are you kotmj?"

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 16 2010, 08:34 PM

This was the inspiration (though whoopee was wearing flannel):


But I could have also done it this way if I wanted to (mannequin to the left):


This post has been edited by kotmj: May 17 2010, 07:36 PM

Well, the dress code was "formal".

No idea what you're referring to with floating. Might be skirt flare.

My "So you want to get a suit made" sticky is about to have been read 1000X.

A celebration of some sort is in order.

Oi Loke-chai, when is your Rubynacci going to be ready la?

I don't believe a word of that. You, donating?

All cowboys wear jeans.

Cows eat grass BTW, don't feed them fertilizer.

Suit looks great on you. I would go with 0.5" wider lapels the next time.

But you need shirts with a more European colour palette. Light blue solids, whites, blue stripes, pink stripes, etc. Not these dark shirts. And while DSN likes his pocket square to be of the same fabric as his tie, people don't usually do that.

All my single breasteds will be single button from now. The single button allows for a longer lapel, making for a more elongating effect. It also makes the jacket symmetrical -- the opening of the lapel mirrors the opening of the quarters, making for a harmonious look.



You should get shirts like these:



This post has been edited by kotmj: May 21 2010, 11:57 PM

Wow, I'm such a lousy photographer!

The front looks good enough. The armholes are indeed high. A tad short overall.

So I was there waiting for Mr Zegna (the man formerly known as silencer) to arrive, when this boy and this girl walk in. Quite beddable, that girl.

The boy says he wants a 3-piece. This got my attention. I mean, who ever orders a 3-piece nowadays?

I asked him what he wants to do with the suit -- it's his wedding suit he replies. He chose a light grey mix wool. RM1200.

It was all over in 10 minutes. It was a most uninspiring way to bespeak a suit. The couple seemed to be in a hurry to copulate. The only instruction he gave AL was that it should be narrow in the waist. Also took out a stack of GQ magazines a la Jind.

He asked me if I was from the lowyat forum. I said I don't know.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 26 2010, 11:35 PM

I have found a source of the thickest, most bowl-shaped horn buttons in Malaysia. RM4.50/piece regardless of size. Stock, however, is severely limited and I ask for your understanding if I keep it secret for now.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 27 2010, 10:07 PM

Send your driver to pick me up...

It was hot and dark, that slum of a bundle shop. Chock full of Levis 505s, which is the most terrible jeans Levis make The denim is spongy and short yarn. Awful.

The good thing is that 80% of the jeans there are very light blue, something that has gone out of fashion lately and therefore unobtainable at retail Levis stores.

After an hour of rummaging, I found a much better alternative to the low-end Levis:



The fabric is of noticeably better quality than the 505s, but not as good as 511s. About the level of a 501. It was much cheaper too: RM8 instead of RM25 to RM 30 for the Levis.

I also picked this up for RM3:



Dark jeans do not match my linen jacket. What was needed is a light colour palette. Dark indigo, like my 501s, is too visually heavy. Hence this whole kedai bundle adventure.



Jacket: Ultra-bespoke linen, a Godmj collaboration with ALT
Shirt: Icy blue Kamdar cotton, bespoke
Tie: Navy polyester knit, kedai bundle
Jeans: Something, kedai bundle

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 29 2010, 06:35 PM