Please do tell if you manage to find the lining. I'd definitely be interested in a good supply of that stuff.

Unfortunately there is only enough of fabric 1 for a jacket. If you felt the softness and limpness of this cloth, you'd surely agree it's jacketing rather than suiting too. The donegal-like flecks also add to the casual nature.

Fabric 1 is by Reid & Taylor, old stuff when they were still producing good stuff back in Scotland. I understand most of their shit is made in India these days. Weave is 50% silk, 35% wool, 15% linen. Or something like that.

Fabric 2 is by Dugdale Bros. I bought this stuff when i visited the factory in Huddersfield last year..unfortunately they had some production problems with this range and it did not even make it to be sent out as swatch books. Just a non-supers worsted wool, with a tweed-like pattern. Very nice drape though. Couldn't decide what to do with this, but I recently tried on my friend's hacking jacket in the same config mentioned, and I like it very much.

Did not want to post the manufacture as both are impossible to get hold of now. But since you asked..

Thanks for sharing folks - I finally decided to go for #2 first to add a bit more variety to my wardrobe, but #1 will be the next project for sure.

Some vintage kimono fabric is going to be used by lining the shoulders and piping the exposed seams (quarter-lined) as well as under the pocket flaps.

Very eggciting.

Yeah, it's really hit & miss ordering from fleabay. I am lucky to have found a local source, but his stock imported from Japan is very erratic - sometimes awesome and mostly shit. The stuff I'm using for the project is just ~14" wide and has to be cut on the bias for piping.. very costly indeed.

Which are you referring to? #2? I have no issues with non-supers at all as well, and tend to be extremely pessimistic/suspicious when cloth feels too smooth and silky. May be merely correlation, but I find that non-supers tend to feel more robust/beefy and have better drape in general.

I am quite positively sure, but it may be all in my head though.

Changes:
1. More room in arms
2. Fix shoulder drop
3. Adjust sleeve pitch
4. More room in upper back
5. Lengthen left sleeve

Not certain if I want to add a little bit to the length.. we'll see!

Cloth is grrrrrrrrrr8 though.

This post has been edited by gshen: Sep 9 2010, 11:20 PM

Oh yeah, i forgot that we were going to add 1/4" on each end of the shoulders. Don't like the rope shoulders, but thanks for the suggestion anyways. The current bit of cotton wadding (no shoulder padding at all) in the sleevehead is probably going to break down over time for an even softer look. Noice.

Yeah, I mentioned previously that they used unsold old cloth for their 'muslin' fittings. Check the selvedge and you might be surprised - the current stuff is Harrisons of Edinburgh S100s but in a weird color.

Yup, 1B. Pinned in place now, and it should be where the small pinhead is, if you can make it out.

Thanks Mr. Loke. No tightness whatsoever in the waist, so no issues for me.

LOL - exactly the same term used here, but in Mandarin = 'zah yao' .

kotmj - is that batik? I suddenly feel like currywurst.

Notch lapels, 1B, hacking+ticket pockets, side vents! Quarter lined too.

Nothing against the English, but I am after something softer and more casual actually.

Your suggestion would work well with a harder cloth and stiffer canvas, but as it is my fabric and canvas are both quite fluid. Makes for a 'easier' jacket to wear IMO.

I struggle to see how a vertical drop (no shape?) is desirable - are you saying this from a technically correct or aesthetic POV?

kotmj - Thanks. I know what you are saying - my shoulder muscles aren't so developed at the base of the neck, which results in the observed flat-ish line. I think Mr Hitchcock doesn't have this issue, so he can get away with minimal padding.

If I were to get any padding, I'd want to pad only the base of the neck to get a slight angular slope downwards. Also, i think the effect is more pronounced now because the collar isn't attached yet. The white canvas probably throws things off right now.

I don't know though, it is quite liberating to have nothing in there. So light, so free. I'll probably keep this jacket without pads and think about this change on my next commission.

beau - I have yet to collect the suit. Don't worry, pics will be up when I get hold of it.

---

Added on September 13, 2010, 4:41 pmThis is what there is (or isn't) in the shoulders:



This post has been edited by gshen: Sep 13 2010, 04:41 PM

Thanks. The fabric weight at 10oz is fairly common at my tailor actually, given that a sizable proportion of the current (read:new) customers are coming from the interwebz and do not believe in paperweight Italian cloths. They have even gotten used to working with 15+oz tweeds...

Their standard canvas is fairly lightweight (but with good spring due to high % of hair), but I brought in my own canvas from RJW that is lighter this time, just to try it out. It does feel a bit lighter and softer, but I'll have to wait for the finished product to decide if it's worth that extra hassle and $$ ordering from RJW in future. FWIW, Iris' canvas costs more than RJW's product if you take shipping costs out of the equation, so they are not definitely not skimping on the hidden bits. I know that most tailors in Singapore buy their canvas from a big supplier of uniform fabrics.. costs like, nothing.

Oh, no worries. Unlike that chap who had the $$ to buy an Armani suit, I am a small-timer and can only afford cheap Azn bespoke!!

Post some pics!

BTW - just got a message on FB from Ambrosi.. they are coming to SG from 14-16 Oct WTF!

I've no idea what Ambrosi is charging these days.. but too rich for my blood. If you decide to go for it, I'm very keen to see the results!

I don't see how Lanvin (or any big companies') MTM program can tempt anyone who has tasted the fruit of bespoke. From what I've been told, the guys measuring you for MTM have only been through a short crash course on tailoring. I would not trust them with a measuring tape, much less when it comes to fitting me...

Best to find his thread on SF and ask him to PM or email you, as his profile is set such that you cant PM him.

He's also on Facebook.

I am very impressed with your seemingly unlimited patience, Mr Beau.

kopking10 - the best advice one could give you is to take 1 month (at least) and spend copious amounts of time on the men's clothing section of styleforum, and absorb as much as you can.

Do not approach a tailor until you have a clear idea of what you want to achieve. Any attempts to get a decent garment before that will result in a less than satisfactory garment down the road.

God bless your wallet!

That is a bold claim. PICS!

That double overcheck is very unusual. If it's old skool stuff, probably 11-12oz. Go for it!

Guido fashions!

Must be a most exerent tailor with a name like that..