Gorge still way high! Jacket looks a bit too short now?

Trousers are great though. What fabric is that flannel ?

IMO, if you add a bit to the coat length, you will have a bit more room to lower the button stance and expose more shirt. Also, the gorge should be folded in 1/2" when they actually make it.. so it might not actually be as high as it seems now. I forgot that, sorry.

Might be the pics, but the coat's back balance looks long? A side view pic would have shown this more clearly..

The shoulders look better now. TBH I can't tell if you've got them narrowed, though it looks like it. Otherwise, either my eyes suck or the outdoor pics are much more flattering.

I was told this is the way it's supposed to be. That is, vertical distance from top to middle row > distance from middle to bottom row.

Very poorly worded, apologies for that. The upper (horizontal?) end of the lapel where it forms the gorge is typically unfinished during the fitting. It will be folded downwards (about 1/2") and sewn down to form a finished lapel.

To illustrate, observe the lapels on my jacket during the two fittings.. I requested for a lower gorge, but was told that it would be lower once finished, and no change was necessary.




I think you could even do with 0.5" extra on the front and buttons. It will look significantly more 'correct'!

I did not understand what the poster that drew the grids all over you was saying.. But i do know that the horizontal distance between the buttons can affect the perception of height more tremendously than any change in your button stance.

A smaller overlap (~4" horizontal distance between buttons, maybe even less depending on your 'width') will elongate the torso visually.

I sometimes regret posting that review of my tailor on SF. Her store is now filled with cloth from all over eBay and AndrewRogers from mysterious customers, and my orders are taking way longer to fill. I also get weird looks from some guys who walk in, probably lurkers on SF.

FML.

Left side (my POV), for sure.

kotmj - why do you need 2 accounts on this forum? Is this what's fashionable?

Re: drape - you'll be in a better position to decide once you've worn the jacket a couple of times IMO. Your old jackets that were cut very differently will be a good frame for comparison!

Maybe I should create an account that is my supposed drape-loving twin brother.

Drape is for windows!

Holy divine intervention! Pls listen to Despos. He is amongst the best of English speaking tailors and certainly knows what he's talking about.

Especially agree with the short front and long back issue. Why did you instruct AL to shorten the front?

I am going to check FML.com for AL's post lol.

You're the best judge as pics don't tell the whole story.

RJW? if you are ever in hongkong, sham shui po has very decent stuff for cheap. Look out for those with 'teeth' as my tailor calls it.

I actually bought 2 dozen gunmetal hook/eyes for my tailor. She specifically told me to get them in HK's shamshuipo market as they are much, much harder and more durable than the ones available locally ('Tailor' brand).

Will post pics once I get my trousers.

Quite sure it is tailor. Possibly the only stuff available locally.. Quite sad, really.

This is a good example of why I believe a muslin fitting helps tremendously!

Definitely not.

I must admit though, that if I had commissioned a DB 2-3 years back, it might have ended up looking quite similar to this... Thank god I didn't - PHEW!

Ooh, that's noice. Already purchased?

That's a real shame.. Would make for a most exerent DB as beau mentioned.

BTW beau - I would not rush Iris with work. They probably can give you 2 fittings in a week, but that would not result in perfection.

If i were you, I'd aim for 1-2 muslin fittings and 2 fittings after the cloth is cut. That'd be 4 fittings, and you can space them out whenever you take the short trip down.

I think you'll be about 80-85% satisfied with the first commission this way, and maybe 60-70% satisfied if you were to have only 2 fittings.

If you drop by, let me know and I will be happy to arrange a small meetup with the local SF community. Some of them have experiences with Graham Browne, Chan, A&S and should make for good discussions.

4 fittings? No chance.. If they are used to Chan's work, might as well just reorder from them if the fit is well dialed-in?

Not recommended to do a rush job in 5-7 days, and I'm sure you don't want your american friends to be unhappy with the work. Also, unless they have their own fabrics, the only things cloths in stock on the island are VBC, some H&S, and some Zegna. The SF approved stuff is not stocked, as is the case with Chan.

Do not have your friend's contact, but we are always happy to meet up with like-minded people.

I think the beauty of Ambrosi's lies in the handwork, and if it is the same Lavender guy I'm thinking of, there is absolutely no handwork involved. Fit is another issue, and most competent tailors would be able to make you a reasonable copy anyways!

Yeah, I was quite surprised when I first went to them for my muslin fitting, but learnt later that this the old skool way they were taught to do things. Good on them for not taking every opportunity to cut costs and focus on getting things right IMO. From my understanding, very few tailors these days do a muslin fitting as it adds substantially to costs. You know, the fabric they use in the fittings are actually leftovers from 20+ years ago. My most muslin fitting was done in a Harrison's super 100s fabric! It was a greenish blue with turquoise stripes, which explains why it didnt sell very well.

Well yeah, I guess Malaysia has a stronger home-sewing market which means there is more retail opportunity. The same cannot be said of Singapore, so the suiting business is mostly B2B.

TBH I have yet to see a pair of Ambrosis, but my friend who owns one doesn't think it to be that big a deal. Quite interesting that the old man took up the task to copy it, actually.

Kevin Seah has loads of fabrics, but I have no comments on quality. Justmen's is one of the older names and they are the same family as Kingsmen and Rossi if I remember correctly. No idea what the quality is like, but likely factory made.

Quick poll ladies - which to get first?

1) Blue silk/linen/wool to be made as notch lapel ~8oz, 2B, 3 patch with side vents.



2) Sage/tan herringbone with burgundy/brown overcheck ~10oz to be made as notch lapel, 1B, hacking+ticket pockets, side vents.



Both will be quarter lined, soft and squishy.

FWIW I have the following odd jackets: a navy linen blazersuit, a brown with blue overcheck jacket (3patch), tan cotton jacket, and not that it matters, but also a tweed jacket.

TBH I am already 80% sure I have decided, but would like to hear some thoughts anyway!