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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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Wira Hikari
post Jun 6 2011, 11:06 PM

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Hi all

Newbie here in terms of paint/coating, so far I only only how to assemble and do panel lining so can i know whether i should do priming first then only panel lining and top coat? How should the sequence be? Thanks in advance

note: is priming necessary as i don tend to paint my models at this stage, perhaps the most i would do is colour it with gundam marker..
Wira Hikari
post Jun 7 2011, 03:00 AM

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QUOTE(amduser @ Jun 7 2011, 12:49 AM)
remove nub, smoothen nub marks, use marker to paint over nub mark, after that draw panel line using panel marker, after the marker dry, spray a layer of top coat and let it try again
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You mean 'dry' don't you? btw is Primer essential for top coat? or will top coat just be enough? thanks
Wira Hikari
post Jun 8 2011, 01:13 AM

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QUOTE(kumanosuke @ Jun 7 2011, 12:45 PM)
only use primer when painting
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QUOTE(shauno @ Jun 7 2011, 06:38 PM)
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So if I'm recolouring the whole figure with gundam markers, is it still essential for me to prime it? or Primer only works best with those tamiya bottled paints?
Wira Hikari
post Jun 9 2011, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Jun 9 2011, 05:45 PM)
umm... why and how does anyone want to paint a whole model with just marker. will out out rather ugly. i have to advice against this!
Well i really have 0% knowledge on modelling painting so i was under the impression that gundam marker was also an alternative to colouring the kits besides those bottled or spray paints hmm.gif anyway thanks for the tip though, at least now i know i wouldn't resolve to repaint my entire kit with just gundam markers.

oh and how you guys usually coat your gundams? pieces by pieces on the runner or the whole figure once it has been fully assembled?
Wira Hikari
post Jun 9 2011, 11:24 PM

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QUOTE(kumanosuke @ Jun 9 2011, 11:59 PM)
Spray whole torso, left arm, right arm, left leg, right leg, head and etc. You should get the idea.   smile.gif
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QUOTE(amduser @ Jun 10 2011, 12:17 AM)
complete assemble then take out the leg, hand, chest, head, backpack, weapon, attachment, and torso then start spray part by part

i dont think using gundam marker for the whole kit is a great idea, airbrush is good, only if you own it and know how to use it

use the gundam marker to pain inner frame is good, havent try on the armor part
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Ok, but there are others who claimed that spray once on the pieces then follow by panel lining then spray again for the last time? hmm.gif so means how many layer of topcoat must be applied in total?

Edited*: Nvm. I already saw the answer to the questions on the previous posts. Thanks all for your help smile.gif

This post has been edited by Wira Hikari: Jun 9 2011, 11:29 PM
Wira Hikari
post Jun 20 2011, 04:22 PM

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Hi again

Can anyone tell me if there are any differences between the topcoats below?, I noticed that they are all under My Hobby but different series i think, any recommendation for beginners like me? Thanks very much smile.gif

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Wira Hikari
post Jun 29 2011, 09:56 PM

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Wanna ask bout the steps, the gloss coat in step 7 is topcoat/ clear paint or something else totally different such as primer/surfacer? if it is actually topcoat then does this mean two times of coating are done within this entire process? since step 10 is essentially top coat. Thanks
Wira Hikari
post Jul 4 2011, 08:09 PM

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hey guys, regarding bout mr mark softener and mark settler, will either these two have any effects of matt/flat coated surface and gloss coated surface? The reason for it is because i heard that for gloss coated surface it is recommended to use mark softener for the decals whilst mark settler is encouraged for gloss coated surface. Any opnions bout this matter? Thanks
Wira Hikari
post Jul 4 2011, 08:51 PM

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QUOTE(Parody @ Jul 4 2011, 09:21 PM)
You gotta go to hobby shops for that. I don't think you can find them in hardware shops.  sweat.gif
So you're saying that for gloss surfaces, you should use BOTH softener and setter? Or is there a typing error?  laugh.gif

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Oops must be typo error, was rushing for dinner....well what i meant was mark softener for gloss surface whilst mark settler for flat/matt surface smile.gif is this how the combination should be? or there isn't any preferences nor effects in this matter? hmm.gif

This post has been edited by Wira Hikari: Jul 4 2011, 08:52 PM
Wira Hikari
post Jul 10 2011, 04:17 PM

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hey guys, any methods to prevent inconsistencies during coating using spray can? I sort of realise that some parts that I sprayed turned out to be more frosty than others. It was quite obvious when those pieces were assembled together with one side being frostier than the other. thanks
Wira Hikari
post Jul 10 2011, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(amduser @ Jul 10 2011, 05:57 PM)
cook heat up the spray can before spraying and spray at the distance of 15-20cm

oh yeah.....dont forget to spray at place with no wind, else the wind will blow the coat away before it reach the surface
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Thanks for the tip amduser, btw I found a useful tip from a blog that might help those who needs spraying tip

Tips and Tricks: spraying flat top coat on unpainted model

But still for clear paints like topcoats esp flat/matt, do you know how much that is needed to spray? unlike spray paints with colours, i found it difficult at times to know how much i have already sprayed onto the pieces and this tend to contribute some problems as i might think i did not spray enough thus the spraying frenzy happens sweat.gif


Wira Hikari
post Jul 13 2011, 05:56 PM

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QUOTE(akoxix @ Jul 13 2011, 06:08 PM)
hi.. this maybe a very dumb question.. i often read that we should spray gloss > panel lining> flat spray..

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hey guys, with regards to this question, do i have to use the same topcoat series all the way? for example Mr Topcoat/ Mr super clear for both spray gloss and flat spray after panel lining? or can I actually mix either series as long as it does the job? hmm.gif
Wira Hikari
post Jul 14 2011, 10:46 AM

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QUOTE(akoxix @ Jul 13 2011, 11:55 PM)
haha.. funny  biggrin.gif  cause i asked the exact same question to a seller where i bought the item.. and he said, "u can but not recommended.. because both are differ in composition." i don't know. u can try it for a personal experience. rclxms.gif  gud luck.. thumbup.gif
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I did tried on a piece or two though not on purpose and the results turns out weird if not odd as if the composition doesn't mix well hence it looks very inperfect doh.gif sweat.gif thus the reason why i raised the question....anyway thanks for the help and clarification, notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by Wira Hikari: Jul 14 2011, 10:48 AM
Wira Hikari
post Jul 14 2011, 04:11 PM

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on a side note, can any of you guys who use or used industrial paint (spray can) for top-coating tell me what brand or name of the paint you use? Thanks
Wira Hikari
post Jul 18 2011, 12:05 AM

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QUOTE(mf_yamato @ Jul 16 2011, 11:43 AM)
for gloss clear i use anchor or samurai brand
for flat/matte, i dun find it yet....seems to heard that bosny has it but still i cant find it..huhuh
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Oh okay, thanks for the help notworthy.gif
Wira Hikari
post Jul 29 2011, 11:00 PM

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Anyone here knows how to remove topcoat? I sort of overdid it and frosting happened. For now i just use pen-knife to slowly scrap off the frosting but it really takes time and come parts are hard to scrap particular panel lining edge, thanks

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