swk_sam@
change to michellin ps3

mxsteven,
do you happened to know a good place where i can get a reliable dual fuel rail?
doing some experiment...need it to feed the 4g92 top on my 4g93t block.
thanks.

my bad
mudah got a lot of cheap tyre

seriously, ps3 is one of the best tyre i've ever use. from my experience, it may lose out to ad07 in dry but it beat ad07 in wet and cheaper too!

swk_sam,
ps3 beat the csc1 in all aspect. except the price
and csc1 tend to develop a bulging spot


This post has been edited by yngwie: Apr 27 2010, 05:41 PM

doesn't matter. prefer a good condition. let me know if you found one.
in the meantime, am checking around at half cut shop as well.

4g92 mivec dohc for richer harness
btw, that could spell trouble my 4g93 block (i temporary removed the 't') with mivec head is still quite unsettled.
you will need a dual fuel rail to feed the top.
btw, car still in friend's garage; timing is okay but still playing around with haltech and emanage. so far haltech looks promising. the desired power is there(mostly for city driving, hence the na engine with invecs-II gearbox ) but needed more stability.

can't remember which version. asked a friend to buy it for me. but it was a piggyback over the original 4g93 ecu. programming was done by a tuner shop in pj.
btw, from your experience, which one is better, emanage blue or haltech?

drive as hard as you can and the car will adapt to the rugged driving style

brewoe_1988@
make sure you buy from shell petrol station cuz' there are quite a number of imitation shell / other brand of engine oil out there.
i got my castrol direct from bp asia.
10w-40 will be just fine.
fully synthetic is not recommended for aged engine. even so if it was already running on mineral for years.
it might only caused the engine to burn more petrol, thus need to revert back to higher visc' mineral oil
just change from mineral to semi synth and it will be fine. engine feel more lighter

btw, for engine with very high mileage, engine flushing might damage the rubber seal inside. so, be careful.

both. aged engine = > 7 years old?? while heavy mileage = 180k and above?? not sure but those in car community gave me those rough figure.
a friend of mine cover 43k km in a year while am doing 6k km over the same period; partly because my waja was a 2nd ride. his car is newer but has more wear and tear on the engine due to heavy usage.

welcome.
to be on the safe side, you should go for engine oil and atf change.
semi synth 10w-40 should be okay for 4g18p.
17" is quite heavy on the car's pick up and fc but it does improves the car's handling.

not sure if bhp carry their parent's castrol . stick to semi-synth 10w-40. there is a writing on the pack itself.

fixed
cps will be ahead after 150m or something.
btw, i drag my slightly modded auto gearbox of 4g18p(where the gear only change after 5.5 - 6k rpm) with friend's waja cps manual before. the result is a lot closer than what we think of

waja thread suddenly become so fast after reflash. keep it up guys

wah! now wanna tapao myvi turbo and 4e.... just kidding

btw, mxsteven your re-flashing service is very cheap.
too bad my waja already using another lousy engine. if not, sure wanna re-flash from you.

a lot of re-flashing out there cost a lot more expensive than yours.
currently using old 4g93 matched to a mivec top and invecs-II tiptronic intended for city driving. bullseye can wait.
any chances of running on haltech stand alone?

original proton engine mounting is less than 280 bucks(parts only). the even cheaper mmc rubber isn't last as long and noise filtering is way below expectation.

if you seldom 'touge', front strut bar isn't necessary. it will only caused an uneven missalignment. unless you're planning to install bars all round(at least front and rear), that will be different story
else, better spend on other performance parts or improves the braking / suspension system / get a better rubber
just my 2c

it will be okay if you installed all at once, front strut / fender / under body and rear arb at once. this will give you a very solid ride and handling. but i guess we only need that for track where every moves matter.
fyi, with the front strut bar alone, said.... you left tyre hit a pothole and caused the alignment to run, it will affect the right side in faster time too.
i once installed the rear bar underneath that joint the rear lower arm together, after a few months, uneven tyre wear happened, went to a few shop for alignment, after a few days, problem will appear again. finally decide to removed it and never had a problem ever since.
unless the car is heavily modded with 4g63 class and above, there is always a compromise when running at stock engine
btw, this is just my 2c. if you like it, just go ahead

the new one is still laggy and heck! it's quite costly
going to try with friend's unichip this tomorrow. hopefully it works.

for standard 1.6 engine, platinum will be just fine. ngk platinum cost around 50 bucks only.
btw, no compromise on exhaust thingy. just sharing my experience; been to a few other shop before and get my exhaust changed. after a few months, there is a noticeable loss in power. decided to get it checked at speedworks and the culprit turn out to be the lousy exhaust works. thick carbon deposit inside the exhaust choked the engine.
get the whole exhaust system changed at everco and there is no turning back ever since!

none that i know. but a good mechanic or an experience driver may be able to 'feel' the effect during a drive.
main reason using low quality of after market exhaust system is not a good practice.

+1

that's why i always advice others with aged / high mileage engine not to use fully synth. semi synth is fine for a mileage under 150k but definitely not fully synth. if the engine is already running on mineral since the 1st day, no point changing to fully synth. it may caused the oil level to drop a lot faster. engine consume more petrol too. worst come to worst, user may end up going back to thicker mineral than x-40

any problem with your absorber? if the 3x alignment doesn't solve your problem, it's about time you check your worn out steering bush and drive shaft.

check your falken 522 if it was made in indonesia, if so, you just get yourself a bad tyre. no offense. 522 is quite ok but the made in indonesia variant should be avoided for some reason. else, get the more popular 912.
astar 300 tyre is okay for being more resistant to aquaplanning but to me, grip isn't up to expectation. consider acceptable for being cheaper price thou....

any leakage? could it be the water splash from mudguard area entering the bottom part where the spare tyre is locked to? take out everything and try pouring some water inside the spare tyre compartment. and see shat happened. could be some leakage

either you paint it with heat resistant paint / spray( like mine) or use a soft sandpaper to even the surface and use a carbon fibre sticker for more sporty looks

just got myself apm performax standard stroke abs and spring on all 4! best of both world. handling and comfort in one package. highly recommended but the cost is higher than those hi lo mines / sustec adjustable thou...

so fast... 2403 post including mine and new thread already into 2nd page