Can. Sit on your sub. Free bass shaker. Seriously, if your sub dig low and loud enough, I don't think we even need bass shaker. These few days when I fine tune my sub and main, I like to play the skidoosh and dark knight (the bullet analysis scene) just for a kick of it.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Jul 28 2010, 06:02 AM

Looks good. With EQ or without? Audyssey XT?

The problem with ported sub pair with sealed sub is when it go below port tuning, it will out of phase which might cause phase cancellation. Also, if you do not have the AS-EQ1, you need to manually tune in the gain on both sub to be equal and in phase. If you have equal distance of your sub to your primary position, than set both of your sub phase to 0. It's tricky when it's not equal distance. Again, EQ1 highly recommended if you want to go dual sub if you do not have equal distance and same model of subwoofer.

Axiom have 2 types. On Wall only and In Wall/On Wall. For In Wall/On Wall, you need 3.5" depth at the back or it will stick out 3.5" from the wall. I ask my carpenter to design 4 beams with 3.5" depth so I can use the beam as part deco, and mount the speaker to the wall. I'll take some photo so you can have an idea how it works. On Wall only version difference with In Wall/On Wall is due to smaller cabinet thus can't go deeper. I bought the M22 On Wall/In Wall version which is rated down to 70hz. I think On Wall only is rated down to 80hz only.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 5 2010, 11:13 AM

I'm joining the SVS club... getting the AS-EQ1. It's too difficult to integrate dual sub without the EQ1. Get poison after Anfieldude bring his EQ1 over to test the dual sub integration. The punch is damn solid and clean with dual sub (A7s-650 + DD12).

Anyway, I found out the bottoming sound is due to one of the driver giving problem. Going to get a RMA from eD.

If you want to go cheap, buy rubber door stopper. If you want to lansi a bit, get Auralex Mopad.

Not the red color one. Buy the one from Tesco, they got gray color, looks quite ok.

Can. But you need to cut the mouse out.

I think their normal policy is I pay for shipping if I don't ship back the faulty unit (which I don't think so as the shipment back is RM 500 for 25kg). I try to nego with them to split the shipping cost half so I only pay USD 145 (quoted USD 290 from US to Malaysia). I'm trying out some solution to see if I can soften the overflow epoxy and scrap it out, use silicone to fill up the minor crack then I have additional driver for the shipping cost (their retail price is USD350). Maybe will built a ported sub from the driver for my living room to replace my crappy Paradigm PDR-10. After upgrading the sub in my HT, PDR-10 boh rasa. Can't feel anything from the sub.

If you want to check out the manufacturing problem of my driver, link here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....01#post19032601

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 12 2010, 08:50 PM

I know what sub can beat the ULF of Ultra. JTR Orbit Shifter or eD A7-900. Both sub are pure SPL beast. The size also too big for average HT room. Totally no WAF.

OK. My replacement driver should arrive on Sat according to Fedex. I hope the f**king ketam wouldn't try to tax replacement item.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 20 2010, 09:50 AM

There is 2 type of bottoming. One is the driver bottoming issue where you will hear the driver hitting something or the amp at max input which is the digital clipping where you hear distortion. But normally if you don't pass 12 o'clock in your gain, you shouldn't have input clipping issue.

Guys, try out Aftershock (chinese movie). The opening earthquake scene had some insane bass. After that, is cry fest for my wife