depends on how much the focus is set at...


correct! it throws much better than the catapult.. . (and the eagletac M2XC4)


ouch. sorry to hear that.


hey... it takes plenty of work to write a review.. I get to keep most for future comparisons, etc....back to work.


yeah, agree, but that might actually kill the throw.
..although, with a HUGE head and active cooling.. you'd think they'd be able to drop a 90 in there and run it at full power.


oh, hey rookiedaddy-- I use a Turnigy Accucel-6.. it works very well and is very affordable.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/u...?idProduct=7028

This post has been edited by csshih: Apr 9 2010, 12:58 PM

thanks mate. now searching who is selling Turnigy locally...
what power supply are you using? mind posting photos of your charging setup?

my setup is somewhat of an oddity and not recommended.. I'm using a PC power supply for the turnigy's power supply as it also can power the fan which I use for runtimes (the luxmeter is elsewhere at the moment)



see the long grey TI bars? I actually sometimes use those for putting batteries in parallel to charge a bunch at a time. (I use magnets for conections) it's best to get some sort of 18650 holder and charge with those.

Interesting

Btw, what big@$$ light is that?

RookieDaddy,

I'm using Tahmazo T15+ but to be frank with you I don't know much about battery and charger. However Tahmazo brand quite popular because of the quality and some more this specific charger (T15+) have a in-built balancer. You don't need an external balancer such as for T15. AFAIK compare Tahmazo T15+ and Bantam B6, Tahmazo T15+ way ahead.

But that just me

I am using this one
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry31257772

looks nice. what is that white/black box with 3 red connectors at the top that sit next to Turnigy for? your magnet connectors, something similar to Lux Luthor's (I think he no longer makes it)?

thanks for the heads-up. Where did you get it from? How much?

ah... thanks. just found your setup photos, i think i may want to "clone" your cradle design...

Got it here http://www.namleehobby.com/oscomm/catalog/...products_id=601

thanks Striderman. I think I'll shop around for a bit, read from malaysia-rc forum that someone selling at RM450++.

Mine was+- RM250

Brand new? grab it while you can. it is a good price

Hey Guys
Any diff , Flashlight using Lithium-ion battery & AA Battery ?
Example : Flashlight with same spec & lumens
One with 2X Lithium-ion battery ( 2200Mah)
One with 2X AA ( 2200Mah)

Will Lithium-ion battery Flashlight provide more bright & throw ?

It depends on the flashlight specifications, its driver circuit and is not affix to all.

An AA Battery is only 1.2 - 1.5v (depending on chemistry). A Li-ION battery is at 4.2v fully charge (which includes 18650, 14500, 16340 (RCR123), 18500, 17670).

Example:
Quark AA^2 can take 2x AA battery but only 1x 14500 Li-ion. The operating voltage allows from 0.9v - 4.2v.

Quark 123^2 cannot take 2x AA battery, not enough power (battery tube also different). But can take 2x RCR123 Li-ion. The operating voltage is from 3.0v - 9.0v

Generally, most 2x Li-ION lights will be brighter than 2x AA lights.

Hope I didn't confused you

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Apr 9 2010, 08:40 PM

Thank You Very Much

I plead the 5th....

the grey box is just where I shoved all the wires from the computer power supply in to make it more organized. (it's the power to the charger)
I believe lux luthor's magnet connectors are for balancing, not charging?

ah, you're right. now I get it... when you put the batteries on the Ti bar, you are parallel charging your batteries as a single cell and treating it as a larger capacity cell. essentially you do not need to "balance" charge, is that right? so you are charging with 4.2V and 6A?

yep! the CC/CV algorithm will balance the cells even when they have a different capacity/charge.
my charger can only do 5A max.

in the name of true flashlight enthusiast (yea right!), i gives you my first close call...

kids, don't do this at home!!!

Taking apart 2CR5 and CR-P2 (CR223)

The packaging:

nothing special here, just a plain blister pack.

The battery:


After disassemble:

while disassembling, i accidentally shorted the contact, i didn't notice the short until few minutes later, the battery feels warm and it's getting warmer, I quickly get my SAK and try to pry open the contact by force, after a few sparks, i think i have broken the short. the battery starts to cool down and Voltage starts to rebound. pheeewwww...
the Voltage measure 6.50V at the initial, during the short, it measure 5.86V and dropping and heating up, after taken apart, 1 measure 3.00V and another measure 3.02V resting.

The batteries:

you can still see some left over metal strip here...

Same batteries from another angle:

essentially, it's a 2 x CR123A.

EDIT:
can't post the rest of the photos... I was given an error: "Sorry, but you have posted more images than you are allowed to" maybe I'll try posting the photos after somebody posted a reply, could be per post limit.

This post has been edited by RookieDaddy: Apr 10 2010, 01:16 PM

hey! I'm still technically a "kid".

have a look-see.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=246699

hahaha... somehow, reminding me of Karate-Kid -- the movie... and those are some handsome cells you got there...

===============
here goes the rest...

now on to the CR-P2:

move along, nothing special to see here...

the back of CR-P2:


the top of CR-P2:


the bottom of CR-P2:


this CR-P2 is so much easier to pry open/take apart than 2CR5, but it a little easier to short too...
yup, another short happens while pushing the batteries out, I left the metal strip intact while pushing and ignorantly didn't pay attention that the body is bare, nothing to protect them from come in contact with each other. BIG MISTAKE!!!
so the battery feels warm again and i quickly cut the metal strip. I notice however that the short happens to only 1 of the battery.
initial Voltage 6.5V, after taken apart, 1 measure 2.98V while the other measure 3.25V

the casing after taken the batteries out:


the parts together:

again, as these batteries are bare metal without any protective wrapping, don't let them come to contact with each other

something interesting here

no, that's not liquid leaking from the battery, it's rust.

wrapping the bare metal body with teflon tape: