yep..while power wise if compare myvi 1.3 and saga 1.3 i can't really comment but in terms of handling, saga is anytime better definitely especially in the corners of genting, both uphill and downhill..really big difference

i have a question on manual saga...
when i drive and when changing gear, what i did on my old car is that i let go my accelerator and i step the clutch at the same time to change gear...

in saga, when i do that, i notice that the RPM still goes up for like half a second then only come down... is it normal cause by DBW thingy?

so shall i release the accelerator 1st then half a second only press the clutch?

and also u guys been talking about light foot and hard foot on accelerator...
when i light foot, the car pickup super slow until there r 2-3 cars can fit in front of me and i see the car in front of me going further and further...
when i hard foot, it is very powerful but it eats petrol.
how do u guys do it? mind to share how u guys control the accelerator and clutch?

i have no idea too. Im driving auto m-line, but if i were to drive sort of same speed with others, i have to accelerate like until 3k rpm.
And then when u change gear, at least it drops below 2k, but then when the air compressor kicks in... have to step more again
so far fc always average about 300km/RM50 RON95. Any diff if i change to RON97?

Guys,

Just 1 2 share my latest experience....Just had my 20k service in Puchong SC last Thursday.

Bought myself Mobil Super 2000 Semi RM85, Oil Filter RM 7, Ori NGK Spark Plug RM28. When dealing with the advisor, they only allow external engine oil but the rest have to buy from them .

And guess what, the labor fee was RM150......

Overall, spent RM 248 but notice lost a bit of low end torque.....

In d 1st place thought of replacing to Denso IR plug & K & N filter but luckily did not buy. If not waste money coz sc don't allow aftermarket parts except engine oil.

Saturday, replaced Goodyear Ducaro to Falken Ziex 912 185/60/14.... damn shiok....noise is much lesser, car feels a bit lighter, & most importantly...better grip & comfort....

A sad story in d beginning but joy towards the end.....

Will be installing 4 doors soundproofing + front bonet next week. Yihaa!

Bro, do keep us posted....I'm thinking of doing it too...

Full details please.....

TQ.

From own experience, RM50 Ron95 can last bout bout 310km, while RON97, RM50 only 270km...

Sure can. Wil update for you. Using Sound Proof Mat + Superlon. RM298 for 4 doors and RM220 for front bonet. Price for both will be RM500. Can't wait.

And can you share with us more about the tyre you bought? And what is the OEM tyre size for BLM B-Line?

Cheers, Maxizanc....

Falken Ziex 912....wua...! Personally...this is a well balanced tire if u r looking for comfort & grip. So far I can only tell u this 2 as the thread wear...don't know yet. Yet to test it in wet cond......but it's definitely much much better than the OEM (Goodyear Ducaro 185/60/R14)....If not mistaken the OEM tire is a harder compound tire. Nevertheless, I manage only 2 years b4 the front 2 tires about to wear out. No hard cornering & high rev sh*t. Mostly city driving. The OEM tire also very noisy & a lot of of (oversteer) if I'm not mistaken. The car also felt heavier.

OEM definitely is the cheapest hence giving the most basic requirements. 1 thing about this Falken 912 is that it is a directional tire meaning u can't simply rotate all 4 tires anywhere u like. U can rotate between front & rear only.

I am now planning to put in K & N drop in filter...have to wait for my friend to get it.

Conclusion....Saga BLM + Ducaro =
Saga BLM + Falken 912 =

no need spend so much for front bonet la,engine noise mostly come from firewall,blm firewall got nth....

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Feb 1 2010, 05:38 PM

very true, rm220 for front bonnet is overkill...trust me bro..

298 for 4 doors is nice offer btw..

try ask how much they will do for firewall or behind the dashboard area

This post has been edited by xshiro: Feb 1 2010, 05:40 PM

....meaning that noises come thru 4 doors or behind the dashboard...is it?

Has anyone diagnose where the noises r the main culprit on our BLM?

Appreciate ur input....

Yes, exactly, this is due to 'drive-by-wire' delay, when u want to release clutch and press accelerator is up to you. Mine way is release the accelerator 1st follow by press clutch, so the pedal delay compensated by the time u press clutch, the RPM up will be minimized. But u have to release clutch slowly after that because ur accelerator got delay, if not it will cause the jerk.

But actually you can get the 'advantage' of the delay, just drive like normal, the RPM will go up, but after u change gear and release the clutch, the RPM not drop yet, this can make the acceleration after gear shift more smoother.

Manual BLM gear ratio is extremely short in 1st gear, which make the car move like ant from still if u not press the accelerator hard enough. Compare to Saga LMST, actually our BLM manual only got 4th gear rather than 5, because at 5th gear, the RPM and speed is exactly the same as 4th gear in that old Saga, simply because our BLM is heavier wif high rev engine, you will appreciate the gear ratio when you carry 4-5 adults.

Tips for quick acceleration, get use to ur clutch and do a quick shift, this will speed up the thing. Normally 1st-4th gear i will rev until 2.5k before shift, with very fast gear shifting.

Guys, put me in M-Line White List.

Still waiting for my car after finish 3 weeks of hell waiting for my loan to be approve and still waiting 2 weeks for my car to arrive. Total of 1 month I've been waiting for my car. T.T

Ask for TS...

What's ur transmission?

M-Line White Auto 1.3

yeah... that is what i do if i need to accelerate fast... fast change gear b4 the RPM drops... lol... really fun...
i usually rev until 2.5 - 3k RPM b4 changing gear...

1st gear i rev until about 2 - 2.5 then change gear... bcoz it is too short in 1st gear like what u said =)

i do not know about u guys... i have a little difficulties in changing from 1st gear to 2nd gear and 2nd gear to 3rd gear... sometimes smooth, sometimes cant change the gear, it is like something blocking me to push down or up the gear. anyone have this kind of problem? or is it my hand problem or the RPM problem? 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th gear is smooth...

to avoid getting stuck at changing gear from 1st to 2nd gear, this is what i do... usually ppl change gear from 1st to 2nd gear is just pull down the gear... but what i did to avoid getting stuck is that from 1st gear i pull the gear back to center and then pull down to 2nd... if go strait, i will stuck... i do like drawing a number "3" backwards. and same goes to 2nd to 3rd... back to center then to 3rd gear...

anyone have this kind of problem? or this is the actual way to drive a manual BLM?

hmmm....better check your GB synchros

what is GB synchros?

firewall soundproofing is to reduce/block the engine roaring noise coming into cabin...

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Added on February 2, 2010, 3:07 amyep...this part, u need bitumen at the fender inner area, around the metal part. u could try getting some bitumen liquid and paint the area...with many layers...else stick bitumen strip around it..if could buy dynamat, its better

This post has been edited by xshiro: Feb 2 2010, 03:09 AM