You think BLM drive-by-wire delay can be tuned or not? is better if can...

Haiz...is OK for me now becos i used to it adi but will find some hard time on 'normal' car later...

Yup, dun be proud becos you can drive ur BLM fast, ur brake can betray you at anytime.

For those who hoping for car price drop in next year, you can buy your BLM now, becos government adi announced they is NO price drop in next year...what a good news for those who can't wait...

Dude, if you are not stressing your engine too much then no need too worry about it la...

About your plastic vibration sounds, i have those noise come from my both front doors, i unmounted the plastic cover by myself, insert a lot of sponge at the loose place, but the effect is not satisfied, i managed to fix 50% of it only...and the culprit is not the plastic cover itself, but the windows tray and locking mechanism inside the door panel. I fixed it many times adi for car which only 5 weeks old, and now i have to gave up adi, becos i noticed i no longer able to fix it by myself, maybe have to seek for help from the non-proton SC in future.

BTW, the sound is not always exist, sometime at low speed, sometime at high speed, and sometime no at all...

One way to test whether the windows cause it, just turn down the windows abit when you hear the noise, mine the noise will disappear if i turn down my windows a little bit (turn down not means until got gap)

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 28 2009, 07:45 PM

Bitumen strips? Is it the 'black nasty gum' that stick the plastic sheet inside the door panel?

Mine is manual, so far best FC is ~16km/L @ RM0.11/KM @ 90-100km/J at highway...Worst FC ~12km/L @ RM0.15/KM @ 1st week i bought my car, becos a lot of stop go and test drive...

Anyway, if you always have to travel in jam road, confident on ur own skill and want good FC, just take manual, other wise auto is easier to drive and economic at highway also.

OK, bro, i quite familiar with the windows structure adi, but i don't know which part i should stick the strip, can you elaborate more? windows bracket is which part? the horizontal metal bar that directly attached with the mirror or the 'cross metal bar' that connects between the mirror and motor?

And how the bitumen can eliminate the vibration noise? is it add some mass and dampen the vibration? or just stick the loose part to become firm? sorry for so many questions...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 29 2009, 09:54 AM

Ya bro, actually the problem you said i fixed adi...the noise is some kind of non-stop zzzzzz, i found that the metal bracket is loose at my left front door, and i did the same time consuming process as you...I inserted sponge behind the bracket to hold it firmly, so i fixed the so called '50%' of the noise, now i confirm the noise is come from some unknown place which i can't fix it now by myself.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 29 2009, 12:26 PM

Add me too...

Granite grey 1.3 MT B-line...

haha, IAFM spoil for new car?

I think not that problem la, maybe the 'lorry' sound you said is some 'air sucking' sound during high speed (>90km/h), like some 'vvvvvvvv' sound, this is due to the IAFM start to suckin the air...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 29 2009, 07:17 PM

ya, the idle speed is quite noisy for Saga, quite rough, like lorry, and quite same as those higher cc car...feel high class also... Is normal la...

Wa...how the traffic condition? Jam all the way? 1st bar can give me 60-90km in 40% jam 60% 80km/j condition, ur FC really unbearable...even new car + AT also won't like that la...

i don't think the braking system of BLM is caused by suspension...if you do notice, you can easily press the brake pedal to the bottom end, this tells that they are something 'expanding' when you brake, and i guess is the brake hose and pump not solid enough.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 31 2009, 05:45 PM

About the brake system, i think you should ask why to those who said 'suck'. For me, is OK, because i drove a car with worst brake for many years (Datsun 120Y, you think about that), so i don't have the habit for late braking.

The stock tyre is GoodYear or Silverstone, and performance is quite poor in heavy rain. Back to last week when i went back to home town, heavy rain that time and a lot of standing water on the road, my front just slightly skid away even i 'lock' my steering wheel wif my hand...and the speed is only 70km/h...

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Added on October 31, 2009, 6:19 pmAs you said, that one is 'TEST CAR', a lot of customes test it out, of cos got some problems la...

My B-line wif stock tyre also won't vibrate even at 140km/h la...it's not the tyre problem...

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Added on October 31, 2009, 6:28 pmBro, if you really want to calculate the FC, you should drive and refuel until the fuel warning light come out, calculate based on the 'bar' is not accurate la...

For ur AT car, there are two shifting point, one is around 2.5k RPM and another is 4k RPM, and the throttle is very sensitive. Your right foot need to be smooth when pressing the pedal, else the engine will rev way up to 4k shifting point, and the FC is like drink water lo...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 31 2009, 06:28 PM

Today i just did some inspection on the engine jerking during aircon kickin and now i have the clearer picture about that.

I just rev my engine to 2k RPM (free gear) and look for the RPM drop when aircon is kickin, the RPM drop is high, nearly 500...the drop even worst at high RPM, i did rev to 3K and it drop to 2.2K...but the strange thing is they is no rpm drop in idle (900 rpm), really strange...

it not so obvious if drive at 90km/h (3K rpm for 5th gear) because the car adi gained momentum, but will suffer during 1 and 2nd gear drive especially in traffic jam. When the compressor just start, the car will jerk, and suddenly accelerate when the aircon is cutoff, makes passenger inside the car not comfortable... What make it worst is when you want to cross the junction and ready to accelerate, but suddenly the aircon just kickin, feel frustration...

I don't know whether or not this can fixed/improved by aftermarket part or tune ECU, but i will try to ask SC about that for next service.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Nov 1 2009, 01:51 AM

3 cents/km? which one better then? and where u get this statistic? i only know AT and MT got FC diff, didn't heard line different also got...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Nov 1 2009, 07:13 PM

If like that please don't forget to add in 38kg for M-line FC...lol

3 cents/KM is a HUGE different, that means if M-line could do 6L/100KM, B-line need 7.16L/100KM, and i never heard this before...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Nov 1 2009, 08:55 PM

wrap car interior?

no no, i understand what you mean, just wonder which material u use to wrap the interior, especially dashboard...