Off aircon, if not, ready to rev until 4k before u shift gear...

abit hard but acceptable for me, because my friend open the door by wrong way...so i don't bother to fix it.

if couldn't hear then nvm one la...yes, the engine sound hear from outside got some old school feel, something like diesel engine, i think is normal, as long as ur FC is still normal then no need to worry about the IAFM.

---

Added on January 7, 2010, 1:02 amProton still plagued by door lock and power windows problem.

Anyway, just now open the boot and saw the tray got water, don't know whether due to car wash or raining, sienz...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jan 7 2010, 01:02 AM

u didn't change IAFM meh? Those idle rpm tuning is useless for FC improvement one la...

absolutely not normal...go to check at SC ASAP...mine 8k km still maintain the same level.

Normally they will look at ur mileage rather than period.

Yes, the Proton designer is very polite in head lamp design, i'm sure that the opposite car won't irritated by our headlamp...

My opinion same as u also, the distance of low beam is too short, sometimes some sign board also can't see well if not using high beam, + my B-line don't have fog light...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jan 10 2010, 11:04 PM

Our engine is drive-by-wire, means the accelerator pedal is electronic device, the pedal is very sensitive and unfortunately got delay, not like conventional car, u can't get very accurate RPM that u want in BLM.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jan 11 2010, 11:26 PM

Wa, how long u drove for 170kmh oh? very pain to engine leh, ~5.6k RPM all the time...

u too much money is it? lol...if u use semi-syn engine oil at 1st service, then service at 7k is not a problem...that 5k interval actually depends on SC, some interpret '5k' is total mileage, some interpret as 1k+5k = 6k, the SC that i went was the latter...so if they said 7k then just go at 7k, why bother to go early?

Standard labour charge? then how much ur SC charge u?

My place here service outside semi-syn engine oil + engine flush + filter = RM110, SC charge extra RM70 for labour cost after 10k free service...

extremely bad, this is Toyota Camry 2.2GLi with RON97 FC...

3.5% is fixed la...

Advise to you, nvm try it if u happy wif ur car performance and FC now...ur FC is more or less same as me, i'm happy wif it, and u should too, becos it even better than advertise...

Well, if u did check the previous post by BLM users, FC become worst after retune by Proton SC...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jan 27 2010, 10:22 PM

Bro, bear in mind the engine is wear item, performance and FC will getting worst as the car aging. Even ur engine part now is 'run-in' and FC is 'slightly' improve, it will offset by few items.

1. The spark plug firing performance drop, hence FC increase.
2. O2 sensor detection ability drop, FC increase as well...

So, u won't get the FC improvement significantly, u should bless if ur car FC not getting worst after 10k KM.

Mine is B-line Manual, new car FC is 12-13cents/km in town driving, now 8k mileage the FC is still more or less the same.

YOUR RIGHT FOOT DETERMINE THE OUTCOME.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jan 30 2010, 12:41 PM

30-50cents/km? well, i assume u 99% of driving times stuck in the traffic jam...if so, i advise u use bike cycle or walking to the destination...

About the FC, i counted it every tank of fuel since my 1st drive, and no significant different on that.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jan 30 2010, 03:00 PM

Wah, good to hear that...anyway, better than ur old myvi because only 1.0...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jan 31 2010, 09:43 PM

Yes, exactly, this is due to 'drive-by-wire' delay, when u want to release clutch and press accelerator is up to you. Mine way is release the accelerator 1st follow by press clutch, so the pedal delay compensated by the time u press clutch, the RPM up will be minimized. But u have to release clutch slowly after that because ur accelerator got delay, if not it will cause the jerk.

But actually you can get the 'advantage' of the delay, just drive like normal, the RPM will go up, but after u change gear and release the clutch, the RPM not drop yet, this can make the acceleration after gear shift more smoother.

Manual BLM gear ratio is extremely short in 1st gear, which make the car move like ant from still if u not press the accelerator hard enough. Compare to Saga LMST, actually our BLM manual only got 4th gear rather than 5, because at 5th gear, the RPM and speed is exactly the same as 4th gear in that old Saga, simply because our BLM is heavier wif high rev engine, you will appreciate the gear ratio when you carry 4-5 adults.

Tips for quick acceleration, get use to ur clutch and do a quick shift, this will speed up the thing. Normally 1st-4th gear i will rev until 2.5k before shift, with very fast gear shifting.

Ask for TS...

What's ur transmission?

My friend new Myvi EE side skirt fall off after 1 month, also fixed by double sidetape, anyway, abit better than proton since at least it can last 1 month.

No one ask you buy the auto transmission, is your choice.

anyway, auto got two shifting point, if u step the pedal gradually, it will more likely shift at 2.5-3k RPM, if u step more heavier, it will shift at 4k RPM, and ur car will pickup more quickly, but at that time don't come here and complain the FC is suck.

or maybe your expectation on 1.3L engine is too high.