then he will say Sony Service sux...lol

nope, u have to understand, it's actually harder for the metering AI to decide the exposure for 'darker (i hope No Racist issue here)' people... they usually will over expose a little to compasate it, thus you'll see photo a little brighter then usual just to able to see the constrast on the faces, thus also why, orang putih photo will always have nicer background due to faster shutter to compasate thier fair skin~  hence lower exposed background. even brown people will have slightly overexposed. thus where DRO comes in handy, but still, not enough for darker people

if u after a frequen wedding shooter, you will notice it is hard to balance the bride and the groom's cloth, iether the bride gown will overexpose, or the groom's suit will be under, even with the best DRO in the world. u can even notice 60% of freelance wedding shooter always overexposed the bride's gown (they will claim intentionally)

hahaha no la... we all are learning, i am also noob

the DRO in A700 works a little diff with A900/850 and A550, seem like the A550 has much improved algorithm, the older algorithm usually brighten the whole photo rather then just the dark area, try shoot it with manual on tripod, DRO off and on.

well its because prehaps he is trying to brighten(overexpose) the photo so he able to see the faces, but the overexpose caused the overall photo to go brighter as well. (or out of the blue he used spot metering on the face (dark, so the Ai auto meter it to brighter) i mean, that photo, the faces are brighter~ then the rest...

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Added on October 20, 2009, 5:56 pmand, external flash, how well does it works?

my experince,
1. u have to use manual, coz the stupiak A-mode will lock ur apperture(probably u gonna use F5.6 or F8 for group photo), and the flash will lock ur ss at 1/60 at wide, and 1/160 when zoom (bounce) or HSS 1/250 (zoomed/direct/SSS off)

and if the sunlight is strong, it actually required 1/640 at F8. the above 3 setting will Overexposeeee

alright then, let say use manual, u able to adjust F11, 1/160, when ur metering detect the surround is bright enough, the flash will auto adjust to fire at Minimum power. muahahahaha so, faillled again

so to actually have a nice photo at direct under the sun, u have to manual everything, set it right, only u get the real good result

a good trail for u guys who never shoot under direct sun (for fill in the face) go try it! good exp... fast go level up~

Sbut i do it a little diff, i will use Smode lock it to the shutter speed i wanted, check both F on subject and background, see the differences, then only decide the amount of power of flash to use (manual flash thou)

and ND filter blocks out flash power too but it is really useful for F2.8 lenses under direct sun. also, if u notice, our skin absorb most of the light, when u zoomed in, even at F2.8, ur SS is around 1/640 only unlike when u zoomed out (wide) it goes up to 1/4000 maxed. (as it tries to meter the surround, if cloud/sky is in the frame)

but generally, DRO brighten up the photo, it does not darken it~

there are people who claim D3x HSS goes up to 1/2000, but the last time i read the instruction book of D3x (go google it) it quote 'HSS support up to 1/250'

But still, YES, it still may trigger pass 1/250...

so dat means we set the exposure based on the reading we metered the background issit...???than we adjust according rite...???still cant get the full view of the technique yet....

iera technique is the same like the instructor taught us on last sunday....only difference on the flash setup though....
one more Q's guys....was fiddling with M mode just now....set my flash to bounce....shutter was set at 1/60....just played with the aperture....exposure wise from F5.6 and F8 not very much difference....why is that...???even i tembak at F32,histogram reading is mainly peaks at the center....

HSS only works 90 degree...they showed it during the workshop the other day.....

so sp00kY,i could safely say that if i were to take pics indoor and set shutter @ 1/60 fixed and any F number,the picture will be correctly expose regarding any F number i've set...correct...???im trying to get a general idea how it works....thanx for ur time replying my post...

its not that u cant run 1/2000 or heck if ur curtain allows, u can run at 1/8000 ss. but that doesnt mean ur flash will travel faster then 1/8000 ss

whats the advantages / disadv of flash xsync 1/160s compared to 1/250s ?

SpOOkY: While DRO Level 5 is pretty amazing, I would hesitate to use it on faces due to the unnatural look it gives to faces. However, it can be recovered quite easily in Photoshop (though not as easily as AutoHDR 3EV on the A500/A550...)

Well explained about the HSS thing, looks like it's still fresh in your head!

I take it that ieR means that when you meter for a wide landscape you get 1/2000s but when zoomed into a face you get 1/640s because the sky is so much less in the frame.

ieR:

Dude, just because the shutter speed is 1/2000s, the shutter does not open and close within 1/2000s! It only travels at the flash sync speed, but with the second curtain following behind the first curtain closer. This was discussed a long time ago, I hope SpOOkY can pick up from here as he got the idea. I don't even remember what to search for on Youtube that explains this really well. Here's one link to get you started:

due to? gear strip or distortion or anything?

2nd hand in market i see its around 1.6-1.7k like that.. but of coz if got sigma i would prefer that.. but sigma got 10-20 only wor

Sorry bro, too deep dah kena poison, hahahaha. Out of the 2 package, the 5499 package lens, issit way better?

Paiseh asking noob question, newby here.   

Good morning guys...
today im going to buy F58 wit a rechargeable battery.
can anybody recommend me wat rechargeable battery brand i should buy.

thanks buddy...f58 need 4 batt rite? noob here