the sky..the cloud..the sea...wow...tremendous...

like i said b4...unless ur shutter reaches its limit(fastest speed) which is unlikely for this night shot...otherwise ISO doesnt really make it too bright...but if u r using manual mode..thats a diff story..

haha..color is very subjective stuff...some might like it for the vividness..some might think too saturated is unrealistic...just adjust according to your personal taste ^^

do note that they were discussing about difference in sharpness..not Depth of Field....sometimes not all bare eyes(at least i couldnt) can see the difference in sharpness(amount of contrast lost) btwn F8 vs F10 vs F12 etc...altho it might not matters anymore if ur eyes couldnt tell the diff...but if u trust MTF chart.....it should be F8 if i remember correctly..

i like that shot too in the sense that i can feel the speed of the droplets...

iso1250
1/1250s
F16
90mm

400+ times to be precise... =p

iso200
1/60s
F2.8

tone adjusted during post processing in cs4

the other area's blurriness are original..i only blur out the plane of focus coz my keyboard was dusty >.< anyway im only like 30cm away from my subject..so the plane of focus is pretty thin..nothing much need to be done =)

for the enter part...i just use a black color line to stick on the back of my enter key..and hang it up on top of the keyboard....and i purposely choose the angle so that the black line was blended into the black color monitor..

hope it helps


p/s: the position of the enter key also slightly adjsuted so that it could be as close to the plane of focus as possible..but due to the very thin DoF..the word stil need to be sharpen alot to get what u see now =)

This post has been edited by achew: Nov 25 2009, 03:34 PM

IT IS easy..lol..

most of my "floating" shots..the subject was tied up by black/white/transparent(fishing line) according to the background color..it works pretty well...if sometimes some part stil visible(due to flash or deep DoF)..u can easily clone it off..after all its just a very thin line.....i tried to "dropping" method..it took me 200+++ shots and 2hours just to get 1 that satisfy me...



so after this trail..i decided to think of a simpler way to ease my life..which is what im doing now...lol

but of coz..if u r from 1 of those anti post-processing/photo manipulation group...u can aways use my old method..it could be done..just that it cost "slightly" more time and shutter counts =p

if i nt wrong..the exposure there shd b referring to exposure time..which is shutter speed..

naruto..for the first shot..try to diffuse ur flash further..or bounce it...the top part is kinda over exposed..

for nikon n starwars fans.. =)



a850
70mm
F 5
1/25s
iso200

This post has been edited by achew: Nov 30 2009, 06:40 PM

the stormtrooper u mean???i don have darth vade..lol

the height of the trooper is around 10cm

bro u might wanna lower the exposure on the background..the over exposed bokehs r slightly distracting....

those r just miniature camera n lens..not real size..haha..its smaller than my thumb =p

a random candid shot taken few days ago



1/200
iso200
F2.8

wedding shoot for my friend..


a850
cz2470 @ 70mm
F2.8
iso400
1/200s


a850
sal70200G @ 90mm
F2.8
iso400
1/200s


a850
sal70200G @ 200mm
F2.8
iso400
1/200s

This post has been edited by achew: Dec 8 2009, 01:42 PM

it could be faster and it also depends on whether u r using flashgun...whats ur iso n stuff like that.. =)

for me..im quite comfortable as long as its faster than 1/100s...so never bother to adjust anything..

yes..i would say fast lenses help..but flashgun helps more...sometimes for group shots..u had no choice but to increase ur aperture(F5 or so)..so u need flashgun help to shorten ur shutter speed..

This post has been edited by achew: Dec 8 2009, 09:49 AM

2.8..lol..typo..