check ur pm

go take a proper look at the sub la, dont just see the pics...

how abt this sub ??
i think quality good ?


i see the sub oledi. damn heavy.

i think the amp able to push tis sub ?

sifu pls help.



cos previously i got a 1000w amp 4ch .. but burn oledi.

now send to claim.


my wiring is 8ga power cable.

so from battery to fuse need 4ga or 0ga ?

and i don hav capacitor.

in future , if i wanna add anothe monoblock amp to push the 1000w dvc sub,

total 2 amp..

how abt the wiring ?

from batt to fuse, 0ga cable ? after fuse need add capacitor ?
after capacitor thn only add anothe distribution block ?

after distribution block, only split to 2 amp ?

from dis.block, 4ga / 8ga power cable ??


pls give advise.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Ideal set up:
Batt-fuse-Cap-amp (1 line per amp, all 0AWG or 4AWG)

Practical set up:
Batt-fuse-distribution block (0AWG up to here)-cap (1cap per amp)-amp (4AWG)

As for the sub, 1100W is peak. You need to find out how many watts RMS (aka nominal W), then get an amp that will provide more than that (also in watts RMS). Damn heavy means nothing nowadays, cause of new magnet materials.

ok.

the amp is 400 RMS power,

so, set to 2 ohm for the sub ?

agree with captdude...subs with heavy magnet does not give indication it is loud especially those china made chap ayam although theorytically yes it is right. Big magnet need big power to push the subs.

hello guys!

i have a question regarding amp/sub wiring.

from where are you suppose to 'pull' the wiring for the sub? (sorry i dont know how to rephrase this question in a better way)
because my sub sound is coming from the 'rear-left' output (when i was playing arnd with faders and balance).
is this the right way to get the sound to the sub?

thank you!

bro. regarding the wiring

captdupe :

Ideal set up:
Batt-fuse-Cap-amp (1 line per amp, all 0AWG or 4AWG)

Practical set up:
Batt-fuse-distribution block (0AWG up to here)-cap (1cap per amp)-amp (4AWG)


if i got 2 amp, both also 1000w , so need 2 capacitor ?

from batt to fuse, thn to cap, all 0awg ?

1 capacitor per amp ?

mean from fuse need put distribution block only to cap ?

or capacitor thn only connect distribution block ?

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Added on November 8, 2009, 3:16 ambro, regarding CAPTDUPE SAID,

Ideal set up:
Batt-fuse-Cap-amp (1 line per amp, all 0AWG or 4AWG)


if got 2amp , both also connect to capacitor ?
no need distribution block oledi ??

sorry for many question .cos im newbie ...

sifu.. help.

This post has been edited by sincy: Nov 8 2009, 03:16 AM

cap is optional... it might help, it might suck your batt dry...

basic wiring first...

>=4awg with fuse less than 10" from the batt and before going through any metal piece --> fuse block --> >=8awg short as possible to amp.

the +12V and -ve MUST be the same size...

iamkroll,

Getting signal from any input is the same... the reason why left is used because in a mono channel input, usually the left channel is used... but why not using left + right that you have check your RCA output from the HU... i am guessing most like to be 1-to-2 RCA spliter that gets the the signal from left channel... or you are using a mono RCA cable? enlighten on the wiring system...

cheers...

craziechild, behind my HU got this splitter thing that 'steal' signal from a few of the masses of wires behind changing it to phono.

so is it the right way to get signal for the sub?

you mean hi to lo converter?

ok . understand half .

this not u/stand : the +12V and -ve MUST be the same size...

?? mean ??

my player is pioneer 1din, thn to preamp,
got 1 4ch for front door n rear.

future wanna add anothe monoblock amp for rear woofer box.

all still not install yet. still prepare all stuff,
cos not get the amp yet, still at supplier thr. claim warranty.

so u suggest i get anothe fuse block ? capacitor not recommended ?
from fuse block only connect to amp ?
how abt , if got 2 amp, both also connect to fuse block ah ?

if my amp wanna put under the seat,

how much for tht fuse block ?

the monoblock amp need use mono RCA cable ?

so it totally jst bass only la ? no other bunyi ? like vocal ..

i found oledi.

i knw wat is WOOFER RCA CABLE.

2X MALE CABLE. BOTH SAME 1.

found at
http://www.lelong.com.my/Auc/List/2007-01D...CA-M-cables.htm


for reference la.

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Added on November 9, 2009, 4:06 amfrom batt to fuse , until fuse block also 4AWG cable ?

thn from fuse block to amp only 8AWG cable ?

how abt the ground cable ? 8AWG / 4AWG ?

This post has been edited by sincy: Nov 9 2009, 04:06 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Practical setup :
1. From battery to distribution block use 1/0AWG cables
2. From distribution block to amps can either use 4 or 8AWG cables
3. get high efficient drivers(<75WRMS for speakers and <300WRMS for woofer) and 8ohm(the best)
4. using cap as power conditioner is ok but not as power supply. Using cap as power supply because of not enough power is pointless. If really not enough power, upgrading alternator or battery is the best way to go
5. Try not to run sub at lowest impedence, as running low impedence is generating heat rather than generating power to sub from amp
6. Lastly, getting power cables that have real rating, like 1/0AWG should have >4500 strands, not insulator thicker than wires inside

thanks for ur info.

my car is persona 1.6 auto basic line.
RM48000+++ tht kind.

few months car only.

my amp Kenko KK-1000 4X1000watts 4 Channel MOSFET Car Amplifier( the silver amp wit box beside pic)

1000watts X 4 Channel ouput at 4Ohm
2000watts X 2 bridged output at 4 Ohm
Full mosfet power supply
4 Ohm stable stereo
Frequency response: 10Hz - 30 kHz
Selectable bass boost (6dB, 0dB, 12dB) at 40Hz
Variable High Pass Filter: 120Hz - 3KHz
Variable Low Pass Filter: 50Hz - 250Hz
Subwoofer turn-on/turn-off control
Variable inpt level gain control
S/N ratio: >95dB
T.H.D.: <0.05%
Diamond cutting badge on the center of heatsink
Thermal/short circui protection
Power & protection led indicator

my speaker =6.5 speaker component set (provide wit the pic)(chicken brand) no $$ mah.
don laugh me.

future plan:

CALIBER CW-600P 6.5" HI POWER BASS MID WOOFER (plan to put at rear) join my amp



v-tune 10' woofer box 24'x15'x12 (plan to put at rear bonnet)
but need add anothe monoblock amp to push tis woofer.

either this bluestorm amp or the v-tune amp.

please help me choose.



B1000 BlueStorm MonoBlock High Power Amp




· Mosfet Power Supply

· 2 Ohm Stable

· Variable Low Pass: 40Hz – 150Hz

· Variable 12dB Bass Boost @ 40Hx

· PWM Controlled DC to DC Switching Power Supply

· Frequency Response: 15 – 150Hz

· Variable Subsonic Control: 15 – 55Hz

· T.H.D : 0.02%

· Thermal Protection

· Circuitry Overload Protection

· Bass Boost Remote Control

· Power and Protection LED Indicator

· Line Out

· 500W x 1 At 4 Ohm RMS

· 750 W x 1 At 2 4Ohm RMS

· Peak Power : 2000W




Attached thumbnail(s)

Sincy
How bout this budget solution:

Your current front speakers put in the rear and run by your HU directly. (actually better to remove it completely and sell)
You buy decent rm700 component speakers for your front. (macrom, peerless, focal, diamond)
Your 4ch amp: 2ch ---> front component speakers
2ch ---> subwoofer
No need buy monoblock, no need add new power cables.

Other suggestions:
sub alternatives----> 2nd hand Rockford Fosgate P1 & P2 for >rm300 including box
----> Alpine Type S shouldn't be more than rm400
----> Pioneer/ Blaupunkt subs should be miles better than any chicken chop stuff you can find

4AWG power cables through out your system will serve you well for many years.
Prices of China RCA and power cables are very close to entry level decent branded ones like Stinger, Directed, Audison, Streetwires. Do consider them.

Cincy,

i think many thing u still dunno yet, mayb u should consider direct chat with one of the sifu, else u ll end up to send lots of reply only can get answer. just my 2 cent

after saw some of the post above, 1 thing i need to clarify is, when you use a sealed box, the advantage is only easy to tune. SQ wise, it may sounds bad. Especially to a multi way system.

Why said so?
In a sealed box, the freq response of subwoofer mostly maintain linear until it end it's ability. But, when the freq response is linear, it create another problem, which is resonance.

Resonance can be settle with lowering certain EQ point or using Xover to do filtering, but it wont sound better than a proper tuned ported/bandpass box for the system. A proper tuned box can avoid resonance and it may enchance the "needed" freq from the port. By enchancing the needed freq, we get a true custom setup which sound more natural and detailed. Some people said a sealed box give more solid feel, i think they just haven listen to a proper tuned box yet. I had experience to 2 demo of RF p1 subwoofer by using sealed box and ported box in a 4 way system. The sealed box are built to spec and it provide very linear response. But in the system, the ported box sounds a lot better than the sealed box no matter how the tuning be done on the sealed box.

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Added on November 11, 2009, 12:32 amlastly, it's all depend on the system

This post has been edited by howiechoo: Nov 11 2009, 12:32 AM

+1

personal preference: properly tuned bandpass box sounds the best...

thanks to all sifu.. im newbie mah....
n i not like u guy all knw well abt ICE, im gal..
no bf, if not, he can do for me..