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 LYN Gen2 Club V3, The Gen2 drivers online meeting spot!

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rcracer
post Jul 21 2009, 10:04 PM

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right, tuning.

where can i get some tuning done for the stock ECU? i know last time hard tuned can adjust some parameters like manifold air pressure, but the shop tutup kedai already. not much can do with PDT i know, but i'm just looking to button things down a bit, to tie things together. Not interested in piggybacking or unichipping, done with spending money on this car already, just looking to bring things together.

It's good already but you get the feeling that it could be a little better just that little extra finese to smoothen things out.

i have the r3 full system with kNN drop in and large snorkel and running first batch ECU. that's all.

Does r3 offer anything in that category?
rcracer
post Jul 30 2009, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(shazmn @ Jul 30 2009, 01:32 AM)
tahir is mojo

newbie in car mods? dont make me puke la mojo wakakaka...

conqueror - swap with me la ur seat ehehehhee...anyway for cams, just asking out of curiosity...why do u need it? to improve performance? just a hint...my car with mivec gb n stock cams placed me top 5 in sepang drag battle...as for last year with standard oem gb i managed to rank in top 8 also with stock cams...so still wanna go for cams? i could bring u to the place...prepare at most 1.8k...hahah with that amount of money i'd rather do something else to improve my campro...

ck_yoong - hmmm very unlikely it is caused by the incorrent amount of airflow supply by ecu...campro is a high rev engine so it should already cater for that...try check the plug first even tho i would also doubt it to be the culprit...hmmmmmmm aiseh...how to help i oso newbie in troubleshooting...adehhhh
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i suspect throttle body is gunk up like crap also, never cleaned it once even in the last 5 years
rcracer
post Sep 26 2009, 03:42 PM

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QUOTE(Conroe @ Sep 25 2009, 05:35 PM)
I try hitting the rear bumper with my palm and i can hear the noise coming from "under bumper" middle part.Something loose under the rear bumper?
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maybe the mounting for the bumper beam is broken already, there were a few where the welding corroded and broke, but not all have bumper beams the very first cars like mine 04 have no bumper beam
rcracer
post Oct 13 2009, 12:38 AM

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spark plugs?

engine needs basic 3 things to run

spark, compression, fuel

unlikely is compression issue unless really old engine or blown rings.

so remaining spark or fuel
rcracer
post Nov 6 2009, 06:52 PM

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QUOTE(kokkie @ Nov 6 2009, 10:32 AM)
anyone changed manual transmission oil before? any recommendations? it was recommended that gear oil be changed at 50k for MT and 40k for AT.

if need to change.. how much (amount) is required? same as engine oil (4litres)?
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manual only need slightly more than 2 litres, maybe 2.5 litres, they fill until it overflows a little from the filling hole then it's full already. i changed mine at 5k km to full syn Redline MTL because the stock oil was so crappy or the gearbox was so crappy gear 1-3 would crunch when entering, once i used Redline totally solved the problem. Also my first change of the Redline at about 30k km the oil came out like brand new. So i will never go back to stock oil anymore.

Redline sells at RM55 for about 948 ml, you'll need 3 bottles the first time, 2 empty and the 3rd just to top to full, the next change will only need 2 bottles, but manual tranny oil not really need to change to often also so it's worth it for me.
rcracer
post Nov 6 2009, 08:03 PM

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QUOTE(Full_throttle @ Nov 6 2009, 05:22 AM)
hello bros, any1 using K&N or Simota drop in filter here? what's d verdict?plz advice..Thx
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i'm using KNN for about 3 years now, it's ok, no change in power or FC to be honest, maybe better response, but this is 3 years ago, any effect would have been gotten used to. but nothing bad at all to say about KNN, does a decent job of cleaning the air too, pretty much place and forget until time to wash
rcracer
post Nov 7 2009, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(Conroe @ Nov 6 2009, 09:54 PM)
Hey guys,

Good news,yesterday my oil sump bocor liou... doh.gif
Spent total of RM430 (tow-in,new oil sump,workmanship,filter n new semi oil...  doh.gif
Whenever i go thru some normal bump with more than 2 passenger,something at down there will "dook" eventho i go slow and at last successfully scratched my oil sump till bocor.

Now the digital fuel meter is acting weird,any idea?also,isit true that we can reset ECU by disconnecting the + and - terminals from battery and leave it overnight?
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yeah the oil sump sits quite low and you're not the first case actually.

to reset ECU, no need to even remove batt terminals, go to the fuse box beside the battery and there you will see a fuse for 'engine' and another for 'ECU' the ecu fuse might have a yellow holder around it at least mine does, pull both out and any other fuse you see that's for the engine, i think that's the only two but i might be wrong.

once both are out go into the car and step on the brake pedal. you will hear the alarm chirp once, that means the ECU is reset, just replace both fuses and start the car. done.
rcracer
post Nov 8 2009, 04:46 PM

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QUOTE(kokkie @ Nov 8 2009, 08:40 AM)
hey bro, thats some really useful tips. but to prevent the event of noobs like me shorting the wrong fuses, don mind take a pic to show us? im sure it will be very much appreciated! blush.gif
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would love too but i'm not with my car at the moment at least for another few months, it will be quite hard to short the fuses as the holders are slotted and insulated, when you see it you'll know what i mean, there are no exposed terminals even when the fuse is out.
rcracer
post Nov 24 2009, 04:06 PM

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guys how much is the FEAD i.e alternator,power steering etc. belt? does the bearing need to be changed as well?
rcracer
post Nov 25 2009, 10:02 PM

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QUOTE(Conroe @ Nov 25 2009, 01:33 PM)
U mean the belt?My bearing was noisy and i tot it's my timing belt kit and then when brought to my mech,he said it's the aircon/power steering belt.Replace it with new 1 cost RM70 inclusive labour and the noise gone. smile.gif
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yeah the accesories belt, mine already making some squeaky noise during cold start, am planning to change it when i change to lighten crank pulley since the belt anyways have to be removed. i was told the belt itself was Rm45 from proton parts centre. thanks neways

edit: proton parts centre online shopping belt + shipping comes to RM76

This post has been edited by rcracer: Nov 25 2009, 11:17 PM
rcracer
post Nov 26 2009, 04:07 PM

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QUOTE(Conroe @ Nov 26 2009, 07:50 AM)
Better buy from spare part shop and ask ur mech to install.The price from proton parts center is fair price.I think labour would be around RM30-40 only because they just need to jack up,remove aircon tensioner bearing,remove old belt,replace new one and fix back the tensioner bearing. smile.gif

Yup,we have 2 belts. nod.gif

How about power steering? biggrin.gif
There's no con job here coz i was there when my mech replace my acc belt 2 weeks ago.If u look beside ur engine there would be 1 plastic cover attached to the engine,that one is the timing belt and if u look beside the plastic cover,there's another belt without any cover.I'm not sure if all batch the same or not but mine,gen 2 yr05 using 2 belts. nod.gif
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yeah i ask the crank pulley seller, mythelogy drex, he quote me rm80 to supply and install the belt, Bando belt

rcracer
post Nov 30 2009, 09:03 PM

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QUOTE(wandzul @ Nov 30 2009, 05:08 AM)
guys is it worth it if i change my oem coil to RAM performance coil? spark plug + cable upgraded already.. will it improve much? how about reliability? anybody got experience on this product? btw, mine is 1.6 auto..
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should be no difference, coil and plugs and cables cannot create power, just restore lost power, if these are in good working condition already you won't feel much diff

rcracer
post Dec 10 2009, 09:26 PM

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QUOTE(Conroe @ Nov 26 2009, 02:35 PM)
Fair price also.Btw,do post up the improvement after using the new crank pulley. brows.gif

I didn't change my timing belt la zul...just the acc belt,my aircon tensioner bearing was in good condition,just the belt cracked here n there.My car just 58k km now. tongue.gif
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ok so lighten crank pulley fitted, mythelogy 570 for the pulley + 80 for the belt, total 650 no extra. done at EA autoworks bukit jalil, i didn't do it myself but my brother did it and his review is worth the money, car is much lighter faster to accelerate, the difference is noticeable and a significant difference too. and the engine still smooth as using the original pulley.

so verdict, yes worth the money
rcracer
post Dec 12 2009, 02:50 AM

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QUOTE(yuszairi @ Dec 11 2009, 12:42 PM)
this crank pulley is the one at the bottom rite? i keep confusing with cam pulley...
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yeap the bottom lowest pulley that drives the accessory belt power steering, a/c etc.
rcracer
post Dec 14 2009, 09:43 PM

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QUOTE(kcng @ Dec 14 2009, 08:20 AM)
elaborate more on the R tiga exhaust please...

kasi share share la
laugh.gif
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why i chose R3 system was because it was dyno proven, i got mine way back then when the car was firstly launched, back then there were a group of hardcore buggers who couldn't get enough of modding their cars, and they did changed from system to system with different config and each time they did they went for dyno and to the track even, this was before R3 came up with the full set, when R3 did the full set of course they fitted it and it did give them the best bang for buck.

The R3 system is best described as balanced, sure you can get more of one or the other either top end or low end which i didn't want, i wanted balance with good bottom and enough top end. Power delivery is smooth across the rev band, no dead spots. That to me is my criteria in calling a system a proper engineered and tested, no butt dynos, no guess work.

Of course a balanced system might not what you want, you prefer just top speed then of course the R3 system will seem lacking to you. It's all down to what you want.

In terms of manafacturing quality R3 is satisfactory, mandrel bent, smooth welds and painted or coated.
rcracer
post Dec 15 2009, 05:40 PM

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QUOTE(shazmn @ Dec 15 2009, 12:20 AM)
yes have to agree on the balanced brought forward by r3 full exhaust system like i said in my post previously, the low end to midrange for r3 is awesome but it dies quickly once u enter the high end area and mind u i'm a dragster who needs more power at higher rpm...power at lower rpm can be compensated with other mods eventho it is not as great but tell me who actually drives a car at a constant rpm below 2k?

with regards to dyno proven, its not like i dont agree on it but people tend to always relying on dyno rather than ur own feeling for driving the car and absorb the performance and be one with the car...u dyno ur car on a machine without a load...ive seen few examples on dyno it shows significant improvement but on the road it is actually worse...

i talk base on experience and i have no basic knowledge of cars and yes im a n00b...hahahahah wanna follow just follow dowanna follow i'm not at a loss at all haha...

when i got my mme with complete lighten fiber bodykits, cable plug, full exhaust etc i got involved with frens who drags almost every weekend...and my r3 setup cant beat some cap ayam setup eventho i've done all other basic mods as they have...sometime its best to test side by side with others before u make any assumption...even after i use a custom LSD gb i still lose by half a body eventho my lower rpm jumps very fast...

oppssss...shud be enuff right? just from my experience...

owh btw...ppl talk about r3 n how they rnd to give best setup etc...just simple question...do u support r3 piracy? i see many fakey bodykits going around and proudly claimed as r3...hahah...peace
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you would be surprised that i do drive below 2k rpm living in KL city everyday maximum 3rd gear so i need the low end to poke through queues and change lanes quickly. not sure if dragster would be suitable for my day to day driving to hold the RPM at 5k while waiting for a gap in traffic then dump the clutch and immediately stand on the brakes to not hit the car in front, it suits you that's good. i try not to forget this is campro engine reason for it's development was cost, it costs around 1/2 of a mitsu engine to build if you ask the engineers.

and no i don't support R3 piracy i paid 1200 for the R3 system eventhough hotbits had something similar at a cheaper price at that time.
rcracer
post Jan 14 2010, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(coz4u @ Jan 14 2010, 10:41 AM)
I wanna ask how abbout this spark plug cable? Seems to have a pretty good feedback from everyone. lol

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...park+plug+cable

Anyway, ppl, about LCP, i was wondering, wads the point of lightening crank pulley when it is jz reducing a small amount of weight of the engine bay. Jz pump your petrol to half tank all the time, it is equal to having a lightening crank pulley right? Hahaha, forgive for my noob thinking but thats wad i think of LCP. hope someone can enlightened me. And i also heard feedbacks that the changes is very minimal and sometimes not noticable.
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LCP for me is worth the money, i had my brother fix it for me and he said it was very worth the money, he says it revs very easy now compared to last time. i haven't driven the car myself but hearing him describe it i get the idea he is very happy with it, i got the mythelogy one for 580 with installation.
rcracer
post Feb 3 2010, 12:10 AM

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QUOTE(eng98 @ Feb 2 2010, 03:43 PM)
i think because of the advance timing means.... it spark even b4 the valve are not fully closing? i guess the petrol smell are the cause by advance timing... left some unburn petrol goes to exhaust valve.... everytime i hard rev sure got petrol smell... especially after genting....

btw can pm me the price and location ? thanks bro shaz

and yes.. i changed my full exhaust... header to muffler
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well i don't know why FC increase.

but here are some timing basics

The spark plug needs to be fired a few degrees before the piston reaches top dead centre (TDC, the maximum stroke before the piston descends), the spark comes early because petrol burns slower than we think so igniting early allows combustion to build as the piston is traveling upwards and reaches maximum burn exactly when the piston is at TDC giving maximum power as the mix expands pushing the piston downwards capturing all the chemical energy into mechanical force.

Advancing timing means firing the plug earlier before TDC and retard means firing nearer to TDC.

For the campro first batch 2004 the pinging is happening because of advance timing, what happens at low speed is the maximum burn is achieved before piston TDC hence the downward expanding mixture collides with the upward moving piston hence the metallic ping noise. But at high speeds the timing becomes just right, reaching maximum burn at exact TDC, giving maximum power. this is why people say ecu 2004 early batch was most powerful.

New batch have no ping but less powerful because the timing is retarded = firing the plug closer to TDC, which causes the piston to pass TDC before reaching maximum burn so the energy from expansion is not fully transformed into energy pushing the piston down because there is more volume already.
rcracer
post Feb 3 2010, 12:26 AM

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QUOTE(eng98 @ Feb 2 2010, 04:16 PM)
i see... means the plug ignite even b4 or half way coming up but b4 TDC rite? means adj cam pulley also cannot solve the pinging where plug are controlled by ecu rite?
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correcto, always before TDC, otherwise lots of power is lost.

exactly, adjustable cam pulley adjusts the valve gear, totally and absolutely separate system from the ignition system.

correct again, the ECU controls the timing, there is a notched wheel fixed on the crankshaft that tells the ECU where the position of the piston is, you only need to know one since the rest are fixed by the crankshaft already, and since everything is fixed together the positioning and timing is always accurate and at the same exact point.

This post has been edited by rcracer: Feb 3 2010, 12:26 AM
rcracer
post Feb 3 2010, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(eng98 @ Feb 2 2010, 04:42 PM)
no wonder my top range felt smoother den those persona.... but torque dip still an issue leh....
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persona onwards i cannot comment already as there were many updates to the ECU, i only can comment between 04 early and later, haha

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