I'm going to use some usual assumption here. Substitute as necessary.
1. You are refinancing within lock-in period. You have 2 options; either restructure your loan with EON to get better rates, or go fresh with a FULL FLEXI plan.
EON rejected my request already.2. If you refinance with other bank, go full flexi. This is the best type of mortgage out there, forget the "better rates" that you enjoy using conventional loan. If you dump your salary into the full flexi and then take out money to use as necessary, you will actually pay LESS in total.
For savings account, if I bank in RM500 then take out RM500, no difference at all. This is the part I'm confused about flexi thing. 3. In 2. above, you need to pay penalty, say 3%, and let's say the difference between the interest of new and old loan is as the following assumption: for eg EON gives you BLR-1%, and new loan gives you BLR-2.2%, so diff is 1.2%. This means you save 1.2% a year, it takes 2.5 years to breakeven. In layman's term, if you switch bank with the above scenario, after 2.5 years you pay the same total. For EON you pay higher monthly, for new bank you pay less monthly but need one lumpsum of 3%. But remember you are going to enjoy this low rate many years after that (unless you refinance again, which you need to do this calculation again).
Well explained. I totally understand now, though don't know how to calculate.4. Zero cost or not?Take the zero and non zero cost mortgage rates, then compare the monthly installments. You will be surprise that diff of minus 0.2% is almost negligible, that's why I say go for zero if the diff is little.
Since not much difference, don't want to crack my head again trying to understand.