Aihh...whats wrong with aifm...

i oso wana do break in as soon as i get my car!

it doesnt matter what engine oil we use right(from factory)..they recommended us to use those cheaper 1 coz dowan to waste right? but if by default we already get semi-syn, then jz go for it issit?

jz break in, and flush the next 2 days ? or 500km? 1st 20 miles?

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.

Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...

Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

anyone knows our brake pad is same with any other model?
savvy?

so savvy's brake pad will fit in our brake?

If you want to compare Saga with Other proton car, then I suggest the new Waja CPS, Gen2 CPS, or Neo CPS    They come with ABS! But need to may extra 20k, which is not a lot, but percentage wise, it's 50%!! Saga is good when you don't compare to other car. So, what exactly are you looking for?

p.s.: I'm also considering the BLM.      The IAFM problem is just so not encouraging.

Handbrake can be adjusted, inside there is a screw use to tighten the cable so u dont need to pull so high to have good grip, last time my blm also very loose pull damn high also not enough grip, then my mech fren adjusted the cable then can do e brake already

OXY sensor after cat, why they didnt use it, it should give more accurate reading for more accurate fc. My iafm 1st time failed.

After reading many many post from different user, forumer, the drive to get BLM become less and less.    Though many said the car is still under warranty, basically the IAFM can be replace for free. But even so, still need to book and queue. Proton seems to skip the repeatability test, or they are putting an assumption that is too relax (and too ideal) during designing.

It happen before, it's going to happen again. Which is a huge turndown point for me. Proton need to address this issue quickly, at least what is the cause and solution. 

for persona...i dun hear anyone mentioning about iafm problem.... ...maybe spoil but the user never report?

Currently, Proton’s Campro engine uses an aluminum manifold with a single airflow path. This will be replaced with a reinforced plastic molded manifold with variable airflow activated by flaps controlled by electronics from Bosch, and manufactured by EPMB.

The automotive-grade high-thermal plastic material used to make the new manifold is lighter, resulting in overall weight reduction, which will improve fuel consumption slightly. The new intake manifold will substantially improve the efficiency of air intake into the combustion chamber, and better combustion means better response, and increased torque output and smoother power delivery.

Lower end power will also be better, since airflow can be optimized for both low and high end engine speeds. Basically, this is a variable intake geometry system, also known as variable length intake manifold. Nothing cutting edge or new in the market, and has been in practice for years - like Porsche’s VarioRam, Mitsubishi’s Cyclone and Mazda’s VICS. But anything that can improve the performance of the Campro engine is welcomed, don’t you think? Another added effect is the ability to create a swirl effect in the intake air for a better air-fuel mix, if the manifold is designed to do so.

FC report on my M-LINE M/T:

Driving: city and long distance(>300km)

1. Filled Petronas RM50, did 338.1km until low-fuel signal lit.
2. Filled Shell RM50, did 342.7km, not yet lighted fuel low signal but left 1 bar. then i fill RM30 Shell again..

Shell truly 'lebih kilometer' oo...

i posted a IAFM picture before wut...i try find back, It's vacuum operated and there is no belt and all only 4 shaft which i can see from further inspection. There is 4 shaft top and 4 shaft bottom, i assume that the shaft at the top is the long track and the bottom is the short one.

This will be replaced with a reinforced plastic molded manifold with variable airflow activated by flaps controlled by electronics from Bosch, and manufactured by EPMB

same issue my hand brake & front brake feel very loose, need to press hard to make the car stop
the emergency brake pulak need to pull very hard to stop the car T__T
I get the tak tak sound whenever i start the car, not only in the morning even during lunch time or given interval of 3 hours
after about 10 - 20 mins the sound goes away
btw my mileage is around 3k only
easily can reach 160km/hr and
168km an hour max, i tried pushing it cant go any further than that - my car only driven about 3000km only so far

and i already start to hate the tak tak sound, my alarm system also giving trouble need to lock unlock and lock back to engage the lock. sigh