Stock is using 10deg only.
Unless you are using stock + racing CDI (dual CDI), else you can't use the stock mapping at all.

Perhaps, the advance 1 - 4 deg is based on the default setting of your racing CDI, not the stock one.

Retard makes sense here then, because, the default may be 30 deg.
If you want 29 or 28, you gotta retard by 1 - 2 deg.

Today a 125Z challenged me out of a corner. Damn, I still cannot keep up with 125Z, hahaha. Starting to lose at 100kph, and his engine is DAMN LOUD.


btw, Penang TT anyone?

Saturday morning 9am at Teluk Bahang. We wait in front of butterfly farm, and take some photos at Teluk Bahang.

After that, go for a drink, makan, and then whoever wanna modify bike, we go Bee Hock there.

okla, Friday night, 8pm. Meet at McD again, lol.


I ady win FZ when I was using 135cc.



I actually seen a few RGV when I round island, hahaha. Yes, I have that GIVI box during that trip. I was at Farlim KFC taking my lunch, park there to cool down my bike for an hour. Did you see me?

I don't like to honk. So, I just make sure the car/bike noticed me when I overtake. I'll stop for a second or few, make sure I am not at their mirror blind spot. But I really hate some cars, I half way cornering at the inner lane, they will forcefully eat into my lane when they corner. Those guys I'll horn gao gao.

My tyre size, front 80/80. Rear 80/90. Going to try out 90/80 Michelin Pilot when this 80/90 Duro racing finished.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Jun 16 2009, 12:38 AM

Actually my high idling speed is due to CDI firing advancement. It has been like this since stock form (with stock pipe and air filter).

NOB1 SSS pipe design, the header is ok. The tail pipe isn't that good.
I guess the collector part (tapering) is at the wrong place, and the tail is too big, not enough gas speed to pull out the gas in collector. That's why my high rpm sux. idle --> 6000rpm feels very good. 6000rpm - 7500rpm ok only, 7500rpm above feels like flat power or even dipping.

Of course, camshaft is another issue too.

3 things to make my engine like VTEC.

1. Custom camshaft
2. 20IN / 18OUT cylinder head + valve (ori 19/17). I am going to make the valve at 45 degree cut
3. Customize the exhaust pipe after 1 and 2 are applied.


For tyre, Duro is bad, Duro Racing is good.
It has less grip than Dunlop TT, but it never go out of shape when the tyre is 50% haus.
Dunlop TT900 will have some uneven-ness.

And really f00k, TT9 can last 3 months only, 2 months basically 70% used up. This Duro Racing have been my front tyre for 3 months, now switch to rear for 1.5 months already, still doing good with the increased horsepower.



TryX can't make it on Fri/Sat and Samba can't make it on Sat. Perhaps we do it on next sunday morning, haha.

sure

Got, but you gotta do your own design, haha.

Tomorrow, Bee Hock may be testing the 240cc LC for the drag race. How about we meet at Bee Hock around 7.30pm? After he close shop only we go makan.

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Added on June 18, 2009, 10:29 pmToday, my 160cc is at 600km.

Tried top speed fetching a fren about 55kg. (I am 72kg).
With the Givi box can reach 155kph, still accelerating, but too many cars. I am at the highway near Tesco.

I wanted a 21IN 18OUT head, but Bee Hock can't get. If I order online, may cost me more than RM750... TOO EXPENSIVE. (the head comes with TK valves, the valve angle is around 45 deg - 60 deg from photo).

I am using TK valves too, but it is stock size and 30 deg valve angle. Can only do some porting now on the head.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Jun 18 2009, 10:30 PM

65mm bore, 7x mm stroke. That bike is using my Yamaha Genuine Racing camshaft with some modified angle.

New record is 185km/h in 300m, haha. Summore its a slight uphill.

The same road as the Perodua sales center.
There are 3 bikes shop along the road. Bee Hock is at the center.

Tokico BM

haha, i can even tell u how to make 300cc engine.
but, very hard to do in real world

the mod is very tough. cost a few thousands summore.

It's S4 cam if not mistaken.


Ahh... end up I am the only one to the TT...

I dunno what's the difference. I js read the label there. haha.
I know it is a damn high cam, 330 IN / 290 OUT.

RM150.

Sunday morning I'll be around Teluk Bahang from 7am - 8am. We can meet at Balik Pulau at 8.30am.


haha, Ninja Turtle !

haha, I also dunno how to say the location. Perhaps u can try google map.

nvm if u dunno the place, we can meet another day.

thanks alexei ,samba and saran for helping me out

I m using 58.5mm. Not a good pair with 28mm carburetor yet. I cannot full throttle until 5000rpm and above.
I guess 60.0mm still cannot full throttle in a sudden, we need to wait until mid range rpm.

28mm is more suitable for 175cc to 200cc. (quoted from 4 stroke performance tuning book), and it is proven true on my bike. It is overkill for 160cc / 135cc, unless we have a very very long duration camshaft which focus at high rpm power.

no exhaust pipe in the market is suitable for our bike, seriously.
The best pipe for pure stock setting is Yoshimura.
For other companies, their pipe are best matched with their own engine, cam, head and etc. mix and match cannot give good results. If we change the engine settings, we need to retune the exhaust length and diameter accordingly.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Jun 24 2009, 06:45 PM

hand clutch will help, but still, it is a half clutched power, not the full power.
Of course, softer hand will help too, but sometimes I need full throttle to go uphill at 4000rpm 3rd gear (for more acceleration), but I end up using 2nd gear at 7000rpm. So I'd like a carburetor that can let me use full throttle even at lower rpm ranges. It feels better for daily ride, but less important for circuit usage.

Yes you are right alexei. 26mm is actually better choice for high rpm range (7000 - 9000rpm). Peak power is less with 26mm, but we got better mid range torque. For 135cc, 24mm is more than enough.

Like alexei had mentioned, air velocity is the key. The engine needs to create enough vacuum to pull in the air/fuel into the combustion chamber. 135cc is just too small to use 28mm especially under 5000rpm. We can never half throttle when engine runs below 5000rpm. With 22mm, I can even full throttle at 2000rpm+, so the daily ride feels a lot smoother.

So, why 28mm is still recommended for drag / circuit?

That's because we are using ultra high rpm. What the heck is ultra?? I mean... its the rpm range above the standard cutoff rpm. For example, 9000rpm and above. There's where big carb usually shines.

Drag bike usually can go up to 13krpm (on LC), and the cub prix 125cc bikes can reach as high as 14krpm. They don't care about low to mid rpm torque, not even mid high rpm like 7000rpm.

What they care is 9000rpm --> 14krpm. With very high engine velocity, there is enough vacuum to pull the air/fuel charge into the combustion chamber. Of course we also need a camshaft which has high duration and high lift to do the job.

2-stroke is different story ady. They don't even have camshaft, haha. Its all depend on optimum port size and how much u can feed the port.

hehe, you got ride-it racing cam right? I was doing 160kph too, but I dont feel much vibration. Perhaps mine is full aluminium block and piston.


take care dude.
I dont know how serious is the bike, but when I fall at 30kph, I oso gotta spend 160 bucks for new front mud guard and fork realignment.


28mm should be fine with 166cc (60mm block). We can hardly find 24 or 26mm carb. Even have, i dont find many good foreman who can install the carb nicely. Some fella just cincai slap the carb on without properly checking if the mounting got block the airflow or not.



RG110 is powerful, dont play play. I have a fren riding RG110 too, and Bee Hock is the expert in modifying 2-stroke bikes (he was the Suzuki RG110 team lead before). 125z for the win.

Oh well, wanna try dragging with me?

I am in

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Added on June 27, 2009, 3:44 pmhe does not have the converter for 26mm Uma racing carb.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Jun 27 2009, 03:44 PM

i m stil using stock.

35%
1000 bucks stuff, pay 350 bucks.
last time i sembang wif the officer until got 20% tax only, hard wei...

can play cheat though, ask the sender to state 1000 bucks stuff at 100 bucks, then u need to pay 35 bucks only.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Jun 30 2009, 08:19 PM