This thread has been so quiet.
You guys just lurking or everyone has abandoned the kancil for bigger newer cars?

I have always preferred manual over auto esp on a NA small engine.

BTW some updates.
Got my SLK a NRG boost meter. Loving it much now.
Also a Ultra Turbo Timer from halfcut as well.

This post has been edited by JasonB: Oct 5 2011, 06:07 PM

sorry man. hehe. missing for awhile...lurking around the watch thread kinda slowed down on cars tho

still here...still here....
my slk stil awaiting to change to td04...but now aircon kacau pulak....

what is the price for new standard kancil tyre 155/70/12 in KL or selangor .. thinking of buying today

come, tell us more about your project! FMIC done? hehe.

Guys! some issue here with my wiring under the dashboard.
Some of the wires near the ignition wires are getting really hot which worries me.

Any ideas whats the cause? or what can be done to rectify it?

im not wiring expert, but if there's any major problems, it would have short circuited. so if its heat, it might be just an insulation issue?

hey, guys, wanna ask, do any of u guys experience this..

this happen to my 2002 kancil 850EZ

my kancil experiencing retard or slow gear changing from 2nd to 3rd gear at around 60-70kmh IINM...

it keep stay at 2nd gear, revving to almost 5k rpm (or more) and making hell lot of noise and i need to rev more stepping the accelerate on to the ground and the sound of the engine is like torturing it self..

btw, if anyone letting go a decent head unit.. do tell me

This post has been edited by AlexLee277: Oct 8 2011, 04:01 AM

hi all, im back. hope u guys still remember me.

facing prob with my L5 power steering. where the power steering will deactivate after sometime. this issue is intermittent. knowing that there are 3 possibilities will cause this whereby the first is the p.s ecu, the speed sensor and the motor.

any idea how can i diagnose them b4 i change those parts?


Btw, a lot of members already changed to L5.

This happened to me also. 1 way is to try knocking the steering column/shaft with a hammer. Just give it a few firm knocks. Apparently its because the sensor is malfunctioning. I had to do this once every few months.

It never happened again after I installed a Pivot Speed Meter V. The device must have done something to stabilize the speed signals or something.

Just a few things you could try.

what tyre pressure to use for best performance, comfort and FC?

using stock size tyre, perodua sport rim.

currently using
front: 210(30)
back: 200(29)



This post has been edited by AlexLee277: Oct 12 2011, 03:56 AM

Dude,
I don't think you can have best performance, comfort and FC all at one go.
Higher pressure> harder tires = not quite comfy
Lower pressure> softer tires = bad FC

30 front & 29 rear should be balanced.

Btw you were mentioning something about your gear change. I still have that similar case on my L5.
Some say its the ATF fluid too much that causes the lag, some say its the cables.
I have no clue on that. Still asking around on what causes it.

Cheers
Jason

thanks.. then i think should stick with that pressure..

about the gear change, thanks for giving some clue...

Tags??

Hey all, WTA anybody can recommend a workshop to service my Kancil in Kota Kemuning area?

Reliable and good price.

Thanks.

since this thread so quiet, let me make some noise..

for the stock kancil, the air con is normally blowing hot air under hot day and while the car is in a full stop (etc. traffic light, traffic jam)

how u guys solve the air con problem?

i solve mine with shifting into gear P and then pull the Handbrake, then rev the car until it reach 2k rpm or sometime 3k..

how was yours?

anyone who converted to L2/L5 got this problem too? can stock kancil solve this problem by installing aftermarket parts?

I have this problem too on my car, and I've been researching a few uncertain methods that people did in the past to improve it:

1) Place another fan blower in front on the radiator, and link that blower to the original fan circuitry so that it kicks in during a standstill.

2) Behind the glovebox has a little knob which controls the level of the compressor activating, which means cooler air but possibly more consumption (and quicker compressor failure)

3) Spraying a mist of water into the condenser or radiator to cool it quicker, letting evaporation do its job.

4) Insulate the pipes after the condenser and before the evaporator (the ones with noticeable condensation in the engine bay) to prevent cooling losses.

1 is claimed to work with a little DIY or a short visit to your local aircon mech; 2 is possibly a myth as I've tried it without showing any difference. 3 and 4, from a laymen's standpoint probably would work since the car is much cooler during the night or rain but most aircon specialists advise against it due to the delicate balance of thermodynamics, and air conditioning systems, not to mention reliability. Insulflex is dirt cheap - and why they didn't do so - there's got to be a really good reason.

oh icic. Let me try to knock it and c whether this works for my case or not. By the way, do u know how much is the sensor cost?

---

Added on October 15, 2011, 12:20 pmAdding an additional fan in front of the radiator is well proven to solve this prob. However when buying the fan, u need to get those slim type. if not it won't fit due to there is not enough room between the bumper and the radiator.

Alternative, u can change to a bigger compressor but this will definitely affect ur car performance and FC.

This post has been edited by gsrturbo9166: Oct 15 2011, 12:20 PM

I can confirm that method 2 is not a myth. Its the control circuit that activate the condenser fan based on the car's rpm, current temperature and other factors. This board malfunctioned on me once. Every time I stop at a traffic light the aircond would become warm and I had to replace it. So its definitely not a myth.

I've never heard of anyone replacing the sensor. I don't know if a new unit can be sourced from local spare parts shop. Usually people will replace the power steering computer box. Some completely remove the power steering altogether as a malfunctioning electronic PS is dangerous. The stiffness of the steering is varied according to your speed. Imagine you're taking a high speed corner and suddenly the steering becomes very light! It might make you swerve into a longkang!

hi guys... need some advice on exhaust... i'm transplanting my kancil's engine next week to l6 jb-jl.. but not sure about what exhaust setup is best for it... my current budget for exhaust is about rm400-500... i think need to change the whole exhaust right becoz current standard 850 exhaust cannot be use right?