mine (1.5Li MT) still averaging at 10.4km/L (Ron97)
95% city driving

This post has been edited by masao343: Apr 29 2009, 09:56 AM

come guys, lets "poison" him


btw how many of u guys actually installed these "voltage stabilizer" things.
does it really have effect when compressor turn on, or with headlamps?
they can be kinda cheap but i wonder if it adds anything at all.

This post has been edited by masao343: Apr 29 2009, 12:22 PM

but i dont have additional grounding stuff done yet, will adding the voltage regulator still benefit my car?
also, are there any extra maintenance needed once this thing is installed?

This post has been edited by masao343: Apr 29 2009, 02:34 PM

yes pls check and lemme know whether still got stock? meanwhile, i'll also hunt in nearby car acc shops.
i guess worst case, i just get the chrome one, sandpaper off the chromes and re-spray with black paint

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Added on April 29, 2009, 2:38 pmthanks for the advice. thk it's time to get that roll of grounding cable i bought last time and do for the wira
for wira, which part should i connect the groundings? got suggestion for most effectiveness?


This post has been edited by masao343: Apr 29 2009, 02:38 PM

throttle body - that silver colour thingy with injectors?
engine head (near timing belt) - i think know where...
ignition distributor - where is this located?

thanks...

actually not kidding lei. mine when cruising at 120kph it is noisy, but once i hit 135kph is starts to be quiet again. i also dunno why...
maybe it is some sort of sweet spot

my car the noisy parts is the AC compressor and soemtimes the tyres, haiz.... headache but no budget to tackle them now

or invest in a loud exhaust to cover all noise out

to-ra-to-bo-dee

looks like an ordinary airbox which connects to an open filter...
i think if ur piping long enough, the airbox thing can remove entirely already. dont seem to serve any purpose.

means the o2 sensor is located in that box?
then just plug it into your new box/pipe also function, rite?

p/s: buy oxygen tank from diving shops, plug into that inlet...

This post has been edited by masao343: Apr 30 2009, 05:46 PM

Guys,
just installed my UR front (upper) strut bar into my car.

but felt not very sure whether i did it right or not, so maybe you sifu can advise me...
as seen in the attachment (sorry poor drawing) there are gaps on both sides of the nut (nut secures absorbers on chassis)
does this mean the bar isn't functioning during corners? coz... imagine if car chassis flex, then the force will simply push the strut arms and nut along the hole without utilizing the strength of the UR bar??? like this, the bar serve no purpose liao la?

also, am i supposed to tighten the nut very strongly, or let it lose (not too tight)?

thanks in advance first...

This post has been edited by masao343: May 4 2009, 08:56 AM


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thanks alvinz and jssim - yep, i currently tightened the nut so strong like no tomorrow, coz i also think logically, if it is lose (meaning lose enough and allow the UR bar to move around) then the bar wont have any effect at all. however, i notice the UR bar paint being chipped and was worried if prolonged use like this, wont the nut "cuts" into the UR bar? then gone lar my investment
any more input on this from any of you guys on this forum, would be appreciated!

have u sent ur car for tuning. i remembered my old daihaitsu with carb also needs to be tuned for best idling and rev.
i'm sure the same goes for EFi engines so your idling would be more stable.

thanks again. yalor, this is what i keep telling myself - "its just the paint, the metal will not get cut..."
i did not install washer on the nuts because with washer, then it cant be as tight as without. can hor?
had it installed for days now, will monitor now and then and see if the nut has moved position (inside that hole)
speaking of installing this 4-point UR front upper bar for wira, the real pain in the arse is having to remove the siren and modify the mounting metal so that it can fit back after placing in the bar. some more, had to buy 2 new screws which is longer (the original was kinda short), cost 40sen each, but just to share in case in future u guys gonna DIY, u can prepare a bit. also, final PITA is to take not if ur car involve in crash or anything, the chassis might be flexed or bent, then the screw/nut holes might not match (for such cases, better dun DIY, bring to shop easier!)

This post has been edited by masao343: May 5 2009, 11:49 AM

guys, i plan on doing sound proofing next:
front doors more important, or the bonnet? coz my compressor memang noisy. which you guys suggest i do (coz only plan to do either 1 only for now)
if i do doors, is it hard to take out the door panels?

haiya, just use narrowband 1315 like old days, slow but at least more reliable than broadband

sounds like very poor repair works done on your car after the accident
i suggest u go back to the workshop and ask them to fix it properly (means masuk their bill/insurance claims)
the reverse sensor sounded like bad wiring problems lor, but the engine warning light is vague - could be many things.
but u said heard electric discharge sounds, maybe an electrical short somewhere? this one could be dangerous if true, could cause engine on fire

but our fren's car now, serious until engine stalls.... some more he heard electric sound... possible short circuit somewhere la, dun play play with such things lei, if unlucky, the spark may cause fire in engine bay, then can claim insurance for entire car liao

doing upgrade to your exhaust system is highly advised
i seem to have gotten better FC since i changed my extractor, removed cat con and changed to larger piping (1.7")
didnt change my muffler yet, so the sound is same as standard, unless i rev the engine to >4000rpm (but i will change this asap when i have $)

as for open-pod, i heard that it will increase FC (bad thing) but then i think if u send ur car for re-tuning after changing that, should be fine lar.